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I'm curious, SuperSwiss, what PSI you run? I imagine it changes during colder weather (not that the Bay Area ever gets very cold).
I miss my days driving and motorcycling in the Bay Area. Skyline Blvd, Route 9, and Alice's restaurant is a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.
33f/32r all year. During the summer in the canyons they got hot a few times into the red on the TPMS display, so I'm not all that surprised that they didn't last longer. I'm curious if the alignment is out again as I was hoping to get a bit more mileage out of these compared to the stock PSS.
Indeed the front tires, the rear tires didn't have that problem. I think I've driven 10000miles with the michelin pilot super sport. Its to get scared of..
is it possible to get these tires in ps4s?
Indeed the front tires, the rear tires didn't have that problem. I think I've driven 10000miles with the michelin pilot super sport. Its to get scared of..
is it possible to get these tires in ps4s?
Yes, you can replace them with the PS4S, which is what I did at 10k miles, but so far the PS4S doesn't look like is wearing any better. They perform better overall, but still seem to wear about the same on this car. You have to do a regular visual inspection of your tires. It's a must on a performance car. This kinda wear is not all that unusual on a car like this and I've been going through a set of tires every 10k miles or so on all my last performance cars. Seems like this one is mainly eating the front tires. The rears appear to last longer, unless you constantly do burnouts. The front tires are cheaper, so I'm not complaining.
Those front tires look extremely worn. 3Y? How many miles? The inner edge of the front tires wears extremely quickly due to the very aggressive camber. I actually just ordered a new set of front tires (PS4S), because after a little over 8000 miles the inner edge is worn again. Not this bad, but junks of compound are coming off and the edge is cracked like above on parts of the tire. I put a whole new set on at 10k miles at the beginning of the year, because the inner edges were worn down to the belts and my alignment was off. The current rears are at 6/32", so they still have some more life on it, but the fronts are done. Well, technically only the right front, because I replaced the left earlier this year due to hitting raised pavement and a resulting sidewall bubble, but I'm gonna replace both fronts to have the same wear level again. Will also do another alignment to make sure.
Are you getting you car aligned to factory specifications? If so, you should try to get the front toe set more neutral as the factory specs are slightly toe out. This should help stop the inner shoulder wear.
Are you getting you car aligned to factory specifications? If so, you should try to get the front toe set more neutral as the factory specs are slightly toe out. This should help stop the inner shoulder wear.
Not sure about that. Based on my last alignment spec, the factory spec is toe in (positive toe), 0°09' +/-0°05'. Most RWD cars are toe in for better straight line stability. The front wheels are pushed back due to tire friction, so the effective toe then becomes closer to neutral. Toe out is done in race cars typically for quicker turn in, but with rubber bushings/bearings on street cars the toe out gets even bigger when driving due to the wheels being pushed back from the friction.
One thing I noticed is my front right camber is out of spec. Camber is not adjustable on the stock suspension, so I'm gonna have to have a conversation with them. I did make the mistake and had the car aligned with the old tires last time, so this time I have them mount the new tires and then do the alignment, but I will definitely have a conversation with them to see if we can improve the wear.
Are you getting you car aligned to factory specifications? If so, you should try to get the front toe set more neutral as the factory specs are slightly toe out. This should help stop the inner shoulder wear.
Yes, the problem is the often quoted, reassuring "FULL FRONT AND REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT" . . . . is only adjusting the front and rear "Toe" (directional adjustment).
THERE IS NO "CAMBER" OR "CASTER" TO ADJUST TIRE CONTACT ANGLES, SPREAD LOAD MORE EVENLY. New car industries best kept secret.
BESIDES COSTLY, PREMATURE EDGE TIRE WEAR, excess edge load can also lead to higher impact, ruptured side walls, rim damage.
We saw the need therefore to re-instate from the early 90's full, precise front and rear adjustment to cater for other than showroom height conditions - High cambered roads, altered height or load carrying. Fitting wide profile tires, curb knock damage or for "track days" the ability to adjust to further reduce understeer in the quest for "front row of the grid lap times".
FOR THE C63/S WE NOW MANUFACTURE A "TOTAL SYSTEM" TO FIX IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME - WITH 3 OPTIONS FOR THE FRONT RE ADJUSTMENT OF "BOTH" CAMBER AND ALSO CASTER.
WHILE FOR THE REAR 2 OPTIONS - AGAIN "BOTH" CAMBER AND ALSO "EXTRA" TOE TO COMPENSATE FOR THE NEW REAR CAMBER FACILITY.
PLUS ALSO FOR THE REAR POPULAR UPRATED BUSHINGS FOR THE '6' MULTI LINK ARMS - LESS TWITCH, FLEX, LOSS OF TRACTION, ESPECIALLY WHEN APPLYING POWER TO LANE CHANGE / OVERTAKE.
1. FRONT SUSPENSION:
#503316-2 J $380 (Both Sides) Budget priced replacement upper arm inner bushings. Fast fit without arm removal (bush extraction tool included) 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative precise Camber adjustment plus Caster. More than enough to resolve most costly, premature tire wear issues. At $380 less than the cost of a high performance tire.
Also the security, peace of mind of "retaining the original HIGH STRENGTH FORGED ALLOY ARMS" - not replacing with welded, fabricated arms!
2. #503316-3 P $795 (Both Sides) Complete " replacement" upper arms like above (#1) KMAC are not only Camber but also Caster” adjustable
These KMAC complete arms are same design as OEM. The security, peace of mind of high strength, forged alloy / not welded, fabricated.
Many brands provide Camber only. But “Caster” adjustment allows to compensate for Camber change plus correctly resolves steering pull.
3. #503316 K $480 (Both Sides) Also front lower (not upper) replacement Camber and Caster bushings. Replacing at same time the 4 highest wearing, Providing again up to 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative Camber adjustment.
THIS UNIQUE KMAC PATENTED DESIGN allows precise single wrench adjustment – accurately under load, direct on alignment rack.
The 2 forward facing thrust arm bushes (now precisely Caster adjustable) unlike other brands set new standards - KMAC being Mono ball / 2 Axis, allowing arms to travel through their “required suspension arcs” without binding / locking up. Plus the advantage of improved “brake and steering” response by eliminating the soft rubber, oil and air voided OEM bushings.
ANOTHER KMAC DESIGN BREAKTHROUGH - bushings have more than "twice the load bearing, impact area" of often used steel spherical ball joints - that with their wafer thin teflon liners soon pound out.
FOR THE REAR SUSPENSION:
4. #502226 K $480 (Both Sides) Lower arm inner bushings Camber (and also extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new rear Camber facility). Precise single wrench adjustable.
* Note Adjusting “lower arms” retains top of tire to outer fender clearance when wanting to reduce costly, premature, inner edge wear.
5. #502226-1 M $595 (Both Sides) Alternatively upper Camber arms (also extra Toe adjustment to compensate)
*Reduces clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to reduce inner edge wear.
6.#502628 K $480 (Both Sides) "Uprated bushings" for the '6' multi link rear arms. - less twitch, flex, loss of traction – especially when applying power to lane change / overtake
DHL Air worldwide $40 one kit, $20 each additional. PayPal, Visa or M/Card.
World's Largest Range Audi to Volvo. Competition Proven, Long term maintenance free, Non squeak, Fail safe lock system. All the features you would expect - Longest established. Most experienced, Adjustable Strut Tops and Bushing Kit Manufacturers (1964).
Really sorry saw as spam, but maybe you could take some of your frustration out on the highly profitable new car corporations .... where a "full alignment" only being basic 'Toe' / directional adjustment. No Camber (or Caster) facility to fully resolve once and for all, ongoing, costly, premature edge tire wear issues.
C63S Brabus 600, gated Ferrari 575M; gated Ferrari 430 Spider; a couple of others
Thanks everyone and especially Superswiss for your information here. I have adjusted to 35/34 for my current European run on my C63S Brabus 600 with 19/20s on MPS4Ss. I am running two up with some luggage. Feels great. Will tweak a bit tomorrow and next day and see what’s optimal.
I've been running mine at night PSI. 40/40 all round. Sometime 38/38. I don't see that much performance difference but it is a little more rigid. Don't have problems with pop holes on **** Sydney roads.
My mate is a tyre importer/exporter and tells be 40 is good. At 40psi the tire will wear in the middle out, lower psi will wear on the edges hence damage to tyre on pot holes etc.
If you're not tracking it then doesn't make sense to have them very low.
C63S Brabus 600, gated Ferrari 575M; gated Ferrari 430 Spider; a couple of others
Originally Posted by Barbalatte
I've been running mine at night PSI. 40/40 all round. Sometime 38/38. I don't see that much performance difference but it is a little more rigid. Don't have problems with pop holes on **** Sydney roads.
My mate is a tyre importer/exporter and tells be 40 is good. At 40psi the tire will wear in the middle out, lower psi will wear on the edges hence damage to tyre on pot holes etc.
If you're not tracking it then doesn't make sense to have them very low.
Are you on 19/20 C63S wheels? If so, interesting. My run at high speed through Germany on slightly lower pressures has been great but will adjust upwards tomorrow and see. An element is personal preference as well I guess
Why is it that the tire pressures are all over the place? And that the gas cap shows something different than the door?
Nevertheless, my tire guy filled it up to the highest, relax buddy I'm not taking a family of 4 to 190mph on the autobahn
The values on the doors are used by the manufacturer to pass some sort of inspection(I believe mpg thing). The gas cap is the one Mercedes actually wants you to use.
Why is it that the tire pressures are all over the place? And that the gas cap shows something different than the door?
Nevertheless, my tire guy filled it up to the highest, relax buddy I'm not taking a family of 4 to 190mph on the autobahn
Originally Posted by mokawop
The values on the doors are used by the manufacturer to pass some sort of inspection(I believe mpg thing). The gas cap is the one Mercedes actually wants you to use.
The sticker on the door is regulated and since the Firestone debacle in the 90s when a bunch of SUVs rolled over due to tread separation from overheating the tires, and people got killed because they were using improper tire pressures for when they loaded their SUVs to its gross weight, the government mandates that the door sticker only lists what's known as the max load tire pressure. It's the safest tire pressure to prevent overheating the tires in all situations, but those who don't know what they are doing are paying with a harsher ride.
The fuel door sticker lists the different tire pressure for different load and speed scenarios, particularly the normal load pressure for when the car is loaded closer to its curb weight and driven at lower speeds. The reality is that most people have no clue about tire pressures, so they don't know that they are supposed to adjust the tire pressures based on how many people and how much cargo they cram into the vehicle. So by just telling everyone to inflate the tires to the max load pressure, it's much less likely that they drive around with underinflated tires when they load up their vehicles.
BTW, in Europe the door sticker lists what's found on the fuel door sticker in North America, because European drivers can be trusted with understanding tire pressures. Driver education is at a whole different level over there. We get this kinda stuff in North America, because every dum-dum can get a driver's license w/o much effort.
Last edited by superswiss; Mar 24, 2025 at 10:45 PM.
The sticker on the door is regulated and since the Firestone debacle in the 90s when a bunch of SUVs rolled over due to tread separation from overheating the tires, and people got killed because they were using improper tire pressures for when they loaded their SUVs to its gross weight, the government mandates that the door sticker only lists what's known as the max load tire pressure. It's the safest tire pressure to prevent overheating the tires in all situations, but those who don't know what they are doing are paying with a harsher ride.
The fuel door sticker lists the different tire pressure for different load and speed scenarios, particularly the normal load pressure for when the car is loaded closer to its curb weight and driven at lower speeds. The reality is that most people have no clue about tire pressures, so they don't know that they are supposed to adjust the tire pressures based on how many people and how much cargo they cram into the vehicle. So by just telling everyone to inflate the tires to the max load pressure, it's much less likely that they drive around with underinflated tires when they load up their vehicles.
Oh very cool I always thought the door was just for some mpg thing or some random inspection.
Mine has the 19" wheels/tires so it looks like 38F/39R is the correct pressure for max loading. I think I'm going to go with the 2 person recommendation though as the ride is pretty stiff at almost 40psi and I never have more than one other person in the car with me and I never hit speeds over 120mph. My car has Continental ContiSportContact tires 255/35ZR19 Front 285/30ZR19 Rear and the AMG 19" Forged Cross-Spoke wheels in silver.
The cabriolet is heavier, so it will need to run higher pressures. The coupe is also slightly heavier than the sedan (by approximately 70 kg).
