ShaneN.

I want to start a new thread because I want to lower my car but there is a few aspects that I'm curious about and would like to combine all the info in one place

I wouldn't mind slightly higher tire wear but it sounds like some people are literally seeing as low as 3-5000 miles on the front tires before they insides are worn (feel free to chime in if that's not the case for any of you). That mixed with likely less than desirable handling characteristics with too much negative camber, I'm thinking it's going to be a must to adjust that. How out of spec for camber will the rear be when lowering with h&r springs (an example for height)? I've read a bunch of threads saying we're around -1.5 or -1.6 stock in the FRONT and go to about -2.5 after lowering. However, don't hear much about adjusting the rears.. wouldn't they be just out of spec? Just looking at my car stock height I can visually see the rears have a bit of camber already, although I just took off my rear tires at near the wear bar and they wore evenly right across. If I can get away with just doing the front, that'd save a bunch of money and time.

It appears like the two main options are either a kmac bushing kit or a f1 fabrication adjustable control arm. I'm really leaning toward the f1 fabrication control arms for the front since they seem to be a simple way to go but also a more straight forward/cheaper install option too. I'm curious to what other people's experience has been with them. Aftermarket control arms scare me a bit, as far as how strong they'll be. I'm also reading that you should opt for some factory bushings in them so they're quieter. Is there any better/different options I may have over looked?

Another thing I keep reading about values being exceeded and logged after being lowered when driving hard. Is this only when the camber isn't corrected? If not, is this an issue at all? I assume it's not causing a CEL and just comes up when running a scan for codes?

And finally, how do lowering springs make the car handle? In my forum searches I keep reading people seem to think the ride is somehow softer after various spring installs which I'm not really worried or care about, I more so want to make sure the car stays at least as stiff and planted in the corner. I'd assume the car being lower would have less body roll but maybe not if it's a softer feeling spring (fwiw i don't want to go full coilover setup)?

For you guys that have done this already, let me know which route you've gone and what your experience was. I'm more interesting in hearing about getting the alignment acceptable without spending an arm and a leg (just doing the front?). I've also already decided what route I'd be going for the springs.

507AMG

I lowered mine on the H&R springs. The drop is perfect and the ride is overall just better. No handling decrease that I can tell whatsoever. My car is at the dealer having the Kmac kit put on the front right now as we speak. I installed the rears myself. They will get it on the alignment rack and put everything back to factory specs without issue. Once I pick the car up I'll chime back in with some more feedback. What it's worth, Kmac is running a promo right now and their service and support so far has been outstanding. I would take advantage of that good deal while you can, I did. Anybody in the Atlanta area that wants an install recommendation, feel free to hit me up.

tobeit

For what its worth - I will have my KW HAS installed this weekend. Don't plan on camber kit for now after talking to several people who have a kit installed. I have seen the posts too stating 3-5k max on tires w/o kit but then there are many who have no such thing reported. I asked the Renntech Technician in Stuart (considered to do all my installs there but COVID-19 busted that) and he responded - not needed for the modest lowering those spring kits do. In my case, I will see how my fitment is after lowering as I likely need some small camber to tug the tire under the fender...will see how it goes, looks, and wears.

(PS: I have 2 other, moderately lowered cars on spring kits - one with similar whp - and neither show significant more tire wear than usual - but guess also depends how you drive and how your none-lowered tire wear is to start with ;-))

ShaneN.

Those replies from people are what I've seen here, and they're what have be worried. 3-5k miles is nuts. If I could get away with decent mileage on them I'd go without it but the replies you talk about are making me skeptical. Although I had H&R springs on my w204 and got well over 5k miles on tires. I'm also a bit worried that I'll get rubbig with the fi fab control arms when running 265f/285r tires like I have seen a person or two suggest might happen.

In this video the guy talks about at 4:20 on his c63 coupe. The inside wore so bad they wouldn't hold air but in the picture it looks like the rest of the tire is almost new

tobeit

I guess time will tell. He is lower than I plan to do but not super low. Camber does not look that bad either on the video...some but not what I would call real negative camber to wear that uneven.

C3504matic

As you know I'm lowered w/ HAS and have KMAC bushings . Ride is fine , but realize angled/sloped driveways can be an issue if going head on , The bushings work but not sure I'm a fan of them . I keep thinking of ditching them for these https://carbahnautoworks.com/product...w205-c63-c63s/ but they are pricey. I know someone on here had them done but he never came back and advised how they were . Fab 1 ...I have their rears but never installed them because my tires almost rub now as it is with 285/30/20 and a 10" rim .

My alignment has corrected ft camber as to not wear tires as bad but I don't like the feeling , feels a bit sloppy and I've had it checked 4 times .

ShaneN.

That's what I'm a bit worried about too, I just put on 265/35/19 fronts and 285/35/19 rears on my stock wheels and if I lower, I might go spacers. I'd hate to go through buying the fi fab front and rear, have them shipped for a pretty penny, pay tax and duty at the border than than likely get dinged by UPS for their absurd processing fee, all to not have them work out. I was talking with him via instagram last night (he seems to go by the camber king now) and he said the front front "camber arms" (adjustable control arms?) would be $495 and $265 for rear, with shipping being $80.

At this rate I'm tempted to throw some h&r springs at it and just see what kind of life I can get from my tires and go from there. Seems like an expensive game to play though.

untamedd

wow i didnt realize lowering your car would be such a pain in the ***. I was thinking about it too but after watching that video, no thanks

alexasa

iTrader: (1)

didn't get car aligned and stretched tires look like he was literally driving on the sidewall.

I would not say most will have this experience.

raudiace4

You need K-mac bushings for the fronts at least, and a proper alignment after. Rears will be fine. It's not that big of a deal.

ShaneN.

Just need to have the camber (mostly the front it sounds like) fixed. The problem is, it seems like 75 percent of people aren't happy with their kmac kits. Doing a quick search on here I found numerous unsatisfied people with it, a few showed the kit not even keeping the camerr in spec even though they used the proper torque specs. Which is why I made this thread. The thought of aftermarket control arms from an unknown person who sells them using a Spotify account makes me a bit nervous though too...

sinister.c63s

I just installed KW HAS and attempted an alignment, would have been easier if they had the optional adjustment bolts like some other mercedes models. I looked at the camber kits and found the same thing, big money and not too many people happy with the results. Basically had to screw with the tow to try and help offset the wear from excessive camber. Pretty frustrating tbh

K-Mac

TRACK DAYS (OR SIMPLY RESOLVING COSTLY EDGE TIRE WEAR)
Background to C63 (similar kits all 1968 to 2020 models)

FRONT - '2' VERSIONS MANUFACTURED:
# 1. Performance / Track days
#503316 K $480 (to 14th May $360). This kit also provides "tauter response" - replacing the 4 front main lower arm / highest wearing suspension bushings.

Precise, single wrench adjustment (accurately under load - direct on alignment rack).

Up to 1.5 degrees 'extra" Camber (Pos. or Neg.) Which is '5' times adjustment of the OEM, inaccurate, one offset position, fluted bolts available for earlier models.

This lower arm adjustment also allowing extra 30mm track width for performance/track days.

Bush extraction tool included. Fail safe lock system - bushes cannot inadvertently loosen.

While for the forward facing Thrust Arms (Caster adjustable bushes) - these are Monoball / 2 Axis design, eliminating the soft rubber, oil and air voided OEM bushings.

Result is tauter, significant improvement to brake and steering response.

This unique KMAC design allows more than twice the load bearing and impact area of steel spherical bearings. Finally resolving the issue that has plagued the industry - their wafer thin teflon liners soon pounding out.


While #503316-2J $380 ($285) FRONT UPPER ARM ADJUSTMENT:
# 2. Main features incorporated into this design is "Both price, ease of fitment and install without need for arm removal - bush extraction tool included.

Provides precise adjustment of both "Camber and Caster" up to 1.5 degrees Pos. or Neg. Design also allows the advantage of retaining the security, peace of mind of using OEM high strength forged alloy arms. Not welded, fabricated upper arms.

Note: When combined with the "lower arm" kit. Provides serious adjustment on Track days - effectively doubling adjustment range (up to extra 3 degrees negative Camber).
NON FRONT UPPER WISHBONE MODELS - INSTEAD UPPER "STRUT" MOUNTS: KMAC Replacements Camber and Caster kits.
Stage 2 (Street / Race) or Stage 3 (Full Race). Precisely adjustable from engine bay.


REAR - LIKE FRONT - ONLY TOE ADJUSTMENT OEM:
#502226 K $480 ($360) Rear Camber and importantly extra Toe adjustment to compensate

Replaces the lower arm inner bushings (bush extraction tool included). Same design and adjustment range as front.

Advantage over upper rear arms is retains essential clearance "top of tire to outer fender when wanting to reduce inner edge wear, increase traction

Single wrench adjustment - track days allows easy access for dialling in maximum traction.


#502628 K $480 ($360). Uprated performance bushings (supersedes short life delrin bushings) for the '6' rear multi link arms. Less twitch, flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.

Kevin

Delivery $40 one kit ($20 each extra).

To access the 25% discount offer - email address and use Toll free #1888 847 9099 (24/7) for Visa or M/Card payment.

RDO247

I think the issues have been with incorrect fitting of the K-Mac kits by the workshops and not the kit themselves.

I think I may have been one of the first to fit to the W205 C63S and have never run into any issues.

ShaneN.

I'm still on the fence with this but every time I read about lowering here someone has a "friend of a friend" experience with problems.

If I just do h&r springs how likely is it to actually blow the shocks? Also, is everyone lowered actually taking their cars into mercedes to have them adjust the ride height sensor.

Seems like so many people lower without any issue other than tire wear which is inevitable but someone also comes in with a comment about the above. If tire wear is likely to be my only issue I'm thinking about just throwing a set on and seeing what kind of wear I get from my tires and going from there on what I might order to correct camber in the front or rear.

Miranda@Nemesis

Lowered on KW HAS. Very happy so far with the ride quality.

H&R VTF is another viable option.

C3504matic

Ride height sensor ? ...thats only on cars w/ air suspension . I'd just lower it and not install the bushings and buy tires if I were to do it again . Handled better with stock suspension settings IMO . My suspension is set to save front tires and considering putting back to stock

ShaneN.

I think sensor links was the word I was looking for? I don't know anything about it but someone said the dealer needs to use star to adjust for the new height. This is the info I was looking for though, I'm just going to order springs and see how the tires wear from there. If I can get a year out of them it's probably cheaper than start going down the rabbit hole of camber kits/arms/etc. It's not like the car will be drastically lower.


On a side note, who installed your springs?

C3504matic

There is nothing that need to be adjusted other than the alignment . RPI in Richmond did mine 604-944-0494 rpiequipped.com . Very good shop , meticulous , reasonable and clean . There is also an alignment shop just behind them which I believe they use called " Advance Auto" if you want them to do it

tobeit

lowered on KW HAS too and no complaints. No issue with loosing comfort. Time will tell about tire wear and if too bad may install Kmac kit then.

i lowered all my cars and have 3 lowered cars now - anything from springs, to HAS to full coil over. Never regretted it ...except some spring kits are not balanced well (like Eibach tend to lower back more then front - happened to me on 3 cars and ended up changing to something else). Shock wear happens ... with or without lowering but mostly an issue when starting with low end, low quality shocks. If so, I change to Bilstein and problem solved.

don’t debate and over analyze / if you like the look and better handling - lower it. If not, don’t.

ShaneN.

I think reading through threads on here of hearsay posts where friends had this and that issue is like reading reviews on websites for products, always makes me wary. I just placed and order for some H&R springs.

tobeit

enjoy - there are always reports about issues..even with stock cars. Lowering with spring kits is really not a big deal anymore. Lots of quality aftermarket sets out there..not like in early days when many weren't all that good.

JPMBenz

I am setting on KW V3's. MB stock shocks aren't meant to deal with a HAS option.

Bemads

im lowered on eibach and 15/12 mm supreme spacers. when i first got it done it didnt even look like the car was lowered it drove like stock and i wasnt even scraping. fast forward a week later i got the 15/12mm spacers and now the car looks so much better, and still its a daily driver no scrapes and i can go up driveways or speed bumps easily

RDO247

I lowered my car on HAS 6 months of buying it.

Standard shocks are still fine after three and a half years.