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I was wondering how everyones c63 carbon ceramic rotors have been holding up for people who have had the car for a while now. Also, is there any specific maintenance I have to do for them? What pads are recommended for them? Thanks.
I was wondering how everyones c63 carbon ceramic rotors have been holding up for people who have had the car for a while now. Also, is there any specific maintenance I have to do for them? What pads are recommended for them? Thanks.
Four years and counting, they work perfectly
Cannot recommend any pads as I have never changed them since I got the car
You can't change the pads they come as a kit with Rotors bedding in at the factory. That is whybthere is no part number for pads and also why it's like the price of a new car to change them lol.
Not true. Although some pads are better than others with CCBs, in theory you can use any properly sized pad on CCBs (I run TiKT/Pagid full-race pads on my GTR Pro's CCBs).
Carbon ceramic rotors shouldn't "wear" like iron rotors. Normally, they're not worn out by having their thickness reduced, they're worn out by the heat causing chemical/structural degradation of the carbon ceramic material in the rotors. AMG rotors have a wear-indicator circle that's meant to be photographed through/using a wear-indicator kit (part # A 197 001 77 99), but that's a time-consuming process. This video explains things quite well, while promoting their unique tool ... which apparently costs about $8K USD, so not all dealers will invest in such a tool.
mokawop: you indicated your rotors look "extremely beat at 24k miles" ... what exactly makes you think this. If the brakes have been bedded-in properly, the rotors will have some pad-material deposited onto the rotor surface, so they won't look "shiny 'n new" any more.
I just took a quick pic of a front CC rotor on my GTR that has full-race pads and TiKT brake-cooling ducts. I recently did a track day where I had about 13 fairly aggressive laps while the track was dry (and the track is known for being brutal on brakes and tires), then a few more than that while slowly running around a wet track ... the result is that most of the bed-in plating has been removed from this rotor. The car has <2K mi and has seen 2 track days.
Bought it from a dealership out of state that seemed to have great reviews. No warranty nothing . Seats were beat and front bumper peppered in rock chips. It is what it is. Looking for extended warranty and going to restore the car.
Bought it from a dealership out of state that seemed to have great reviews. No warranty nothing . Seats were beat and front bumper peppered in rock chips. It is what it is. Looking for extended warranty and going to restore the car.
ok
as for the rotors, the main thing to watch for are CHIPS, the biggest reason i dont have them is due to they CHIP easier then you would want, and i track my car alot. So new floating rotors are cheaper then CCB Floaters.
but they are great cars , so enjoy the hell out of … with those brakes she will stop !
As mentioned by others, those rotors look fine, though it looks like there's no pad-plating on the rotors so you may want to do a bed-in. I've attached a PDF that provides a CCB bed-in procedure and was posted on the AMG private forum, some years ago. I think it's a little excessive, however.
Since my car has the TiKT brake-cooling ducts, I modified the procedure ... FWIW (starting with zero rotor-plating) I simply did "run up to 120 kph then brake at about 1G down to about 30 kph" and repeated this 10x as quickly as possible (because the brake-cooling is rapid with the ducts). The result was plated rotors that would seldom squeal under daily-type driving.
UPDATE: My initial bed-in was done with fresh/new TiKT/Pagid race pads. Generally it's easier to bed-in pads when they're new. After a rainy track day, I found I needed to re-burnish/bed-in my brakes (the brake squeal was rather epic!). I knew it was going to be more difficult with the in-use pads so I first taped over the 4 TiKT brake-cooling ducts. Even with that, I had to do the run-up/brake sequence 20 times in rapid succession in order to get a reasonable amount of plating.
The other thing with CCBs is to be _very_ careful when removing/installing wheels ... if you knock the rim against the edge of the rotor, it's very easy to chip the edge of the rotor -- they're very hard, but also very brittle. WIS also states that you can't grab 'n twist on a CCB rotor to turn the front suspension when the car is on the hoist ... a risk of cracking the rotor. In addition, WIS states that CCB rotors are only to be placed on the bench sitting on the metal center, not on the rotor surface.
As mentioned by others, those rotors look fine, though it looks like there's no pad-plating on the rotors so you may want to do a bed-in. I've attached a PDF that provides a CCB bed-in procedure and was posted on the AMG private forum, some years ago. I think it's a little excessive, however.
Since my car has the TiKT brake-cooling ducts, I modified the procedure ... FWIW (starting with zero rotor-plating) I simply did "run up to 120 kph then brake at about 1G down to about 30 kph" and repeated this 10x as quickly as possible (because the brake-cooling is rapid with the ducts). The result was plated rotors that would seldom squeal under daily-type driving.
The other thing with CCBs is to be _very_ careful when removing/installing wheels ... if you knock the rim against the edge of the rotor, it's very easy to chip the edge of the rotor -- they're very hard, but also very brittle. WIS also states that you can't grab 'n twist on a CCB rotor to turn the front suspension when the car is on the hoist ... a risk of cracking the rotor. In addition, WIS states that CCB rotors are only to be placed on the bench sitting on the metal center, not on the rotor surface.
Forgive the ignorance but what's the purpose of this bedding in procedure (besides eliminating squeaking, which I'm actually experiencing at slow speeds)? I'm having a hard time thinking where I could do such a procedure, even if it's a modified one such as you did, that's a lot of room (and no traffic) required.
Forgive the ignorance but what's the purpose of this bedding in procedure (besides eliminating squeaking, which I'm actually experiencing at slow speeds)? I'm having a hard time thinking where I could do such a procedure, even if it's a modified one such as you did, that's a lot of room (and no traffic) required.
In short : " Bedding in your brakes helps transfer an even layer of brake pad material onto the brake rotor which assists in smoother brake operation and improved braking power. ... This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock. "
There are TONS of reasons, and others will say there piece, but in general.. its a good idea to do. (if you dont know or dont have a place to do this, then its presumed you wont be driving the car at a speed that would matter)
Forgive the ignorance but what's the purpose of this bedding in procedure (besides eliminating squeaking, which I'm actually experiencing at slow speeds)? I'm having a hard time thinking where I could do such a procedure, even if it's a modified one such as you did, that's a lot of room (and no traffic) required.
A subject that has been discussed before and doesn't just apply to the CCBs. I agree with the above, if you don't have the opportunity to bed-in the brakes, then I'm wondering why you'd even get CCBs since they are meant for repeated very hard braking on a track for example. Reducing noise under normal braking is one benefit, though, and if you don't regularly get the brakes hot to maintain the pad layer, then you actually need to repeat the procedure, because when the brakes are cold, the pads operate in abrasive mode and scrape the layer back off the rotors over time. Here's a good video on the subject. Properly bedded-in brakes will perform much better in all situations.
Just went out and followed the bed in procedure provided, drove for about 20min no brakes, and found that the brakes have a layer of I assume the pad material on it. Additionally, the color seems to have slightly browned? Maybe dust not sure. Will report back findings after I go out again once fully cooled
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. Seats were beat and front bumper peppered in rock chips. It is what it is. Looking for extended warranty and going to restore the car.
