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1slowc63s

 

I had heard all the other brands of clutches suck so I went with Blackboost who just recently released their set. Saw a few other cars had good results so went with them. Few thousand hard miles on em no slipping or anything so far

 

When the slipping started on the old clutch, what was the first indication? Was it like a shuddering/hesitation when moderately accelerating?

 

My 5th gear just completely went out. Rest were fine oddly enough. Rarely ever go wot in 5th but if I did it would stutter rpms shoot up car go no where sometimes even pop out of gear

 

Did you have todo a lot of clutch adaptions to get them running smoothly ? I’ve got the Weistec clutches in my car and it took a lot of adaptions and about 500km to get them running smoothly , I have xentry so this wasn’t such and issue (the wife’s and expert at it now) but for anyone without it would be horrible. Be interesting to see if you went through the same stuff as me

 

Blackboost told me to reset adaptations on them then driving like a grandma at first and gradually pickup the force through 500 miles. Never experienced anything odd with it felt like stock the entire time up to wot pulls

 

Your not the brightest kid in the class huh....

 

What tires are everyone running? I’m currently on PS4S 295/30/20 in the rear and they are basically end of life (almost at wear bars). They spin in 4th and even if I go up to 305/30/20, I think I’ll still have major traction issues.

I am thinking of throwing on a set of Nitto NTRRR2 in 305/30/20 paired with PS4S in 265/30/20 in the front. They are about $200 cheaper a tire (not that it really matters) and from what I’ve heard are the best 20” option for DR’s for our cars. I’ve never ran mixed category tires on a car before, so not sure what to expect.

 

I am running NT555R2 305/30/20 in the rear and PS4S in the front as well. Daily driver.

 

I want to go the same nt555r2 but they are on back order. Had discount tire call Nitto and apparently there is no ETA for new production. Not sure if that means they discounting or supply chain woes are hitting them hard.

Ended up ordering PS4S 305/30/20 for now.

Want to figure out how I can get a good 18” wheel (don’t need to spend $4k on Welds) for the rear so I have more DR tire options.

 

I had the Michelin PS4S with 305/30R20 on the rear of my stock C63 S Coupe and they were hopeless at holding traction. They don't seem to work well on cars with hight torque. Even the tyre guy said he gets a lot of customers with Supras and supercharged Mustangs complaining about them. I replaced them with Nankang NS-2R semi-slicks with race compound (they do street compound too) of the same size after less than 1000 km, but I could never get the Nankangs in the right heat range on the street to grip the way they should. But they still gripped better than the PS4S. I have since replaced those with Continental Sportcontact 7 (255/35R19 front and 305/30R20 rear) and they grip like crazy. I can smash full throttle in second at 60 km/h (37 mph) with no spin at all after just a couple of minutes of normal driving on the street. I would like to get the Toyo R888R tyres, but they don't make them in that size.

Mods: Stage 1 ECU and TCU tune, BMC air filters and Wavetrac mechanical LSD (gets rid of the electronic control of the diff and clutch type locking mechanism). The figures at the wheels are: 468.7 hp @5010 rpm and 771.0 Nm (568.7 ft lb) @3820 rpm.

I'm not sure what stage diff mods are considered, as it's not a common mod on these, but the tuners had never done it before my car and now say they would recommend the diff upgrade over any Stage 1 ECU and TCU tune (if you only had many for just one or the other, they would pick the diff upgrade). I always wanted the car to work dynamically as well. I don't want big numbers on the dyno that can't be put to the road effectively. Now that I have more or less improved the traction issue, I feel I can go to a Stage 2 ECU and TCU tune, but I'm thinking I will have to upgrade the turbos too. From the dyno chart, it looks like the stock turbos run out of steam by 6000 rpm.

 

Nankang make a CR-S semi slick which i am thinking of maybe trying just cant get my hands on any stock at the moment
I tried the Toyo R888R in 285/30/20 which is the stock size for a coupe, they grip when warm but they are noisy sounds like a whining diff

Are you running spacers on your car with the 305 size tyre? i was thinking of going with a 295 or 305 depending how close it will get to my guards since im running spacers

 

I’m not running spacers. The Nankang NS-2R were very noisy as well. Like the bearings were badly worn. It was unbearable to be honest.

for reference, the Michelins were slightly closer to the guards at 305/30R20 than the Continental and the Nankang. I feel I could go to 315 with the Continental, 325 with a 19 inch rim even. So could get possibly get away with a 10mm spacer at 305. But possibly not with the Michelin tyre. So just check the actual tire width and height specifications for the one you want to buy. They do vary slightly between manufacturers even though they state the same ratios.

I wanted to by the AR-1 or CRS, but the Nankang rep told me the NS-2R is better than those for straight line grip, and the other two are better in track. I figured he wouldn’t be fooling me because the AR-1 and CRS tyres were more expensive. The only issue was that they were never hot enough when I needed them, and normal road driving just couldn’t get the require heat into them to make them grip.

 

Thats pretty much how the R888R's sound
When i spoke to the Nankang rep he told me the CRS semi slicks are better, might be personal choice i guess unless you try then yourself

I might need to work out the size of the tyres with the spacers included, i currently have michelin cup 2 on the rear and they are useless

 

I think you might have the same issue with most semi-slick or slick compounds. They work, but they need a bit of punishment to get enough heat into them. I saw a race with a McLaren where they made the driver do some big burnouts on the Cup 2s before he could get good launches from them. It’s just not practical on the road. I settled for the Conti SC7 after seeing that a lot of the high horsepower RWD cars on OG battles were using them and getting some decent 0-60 times and 1/4 mile times on un-prepped surface. I was surprised with the grip level. I quite enjoy that massive shove forward without the wheels breaking traction at low speed. I know the Wavetrac diff helps too with that respect, but it’s working better with the Conti tires than with the Nankang I tried and the PS4S. The headache with tires is that you can’t try before you buy, and it’s an expensive trial and error exercise.

 

How much power are you talking about when you say a lot of high horsepower cars are using them?
I checked and the SC7 do make my original 285/30/20 size, to be honest i was going to try the PS4S on the rear when i change from the CUP 2's

I enquired to get some Nitto NT555R2 sent to Australia, but the price was stupid so i didnt bother

 

this is a link to one of the cars (stage 3, 800 hp+).


But a lot of Supra, other Mercs and BMWs seem to use them too. In that particular clip I think the C63 S gets a better 0-60 tone than the AMG GT-R. I Director I consult to has a Green AMG GT-R on Cup 2s with a stage 2 tune and he gets wheel spin at 100 km/h in third.

 

I currently have 740whp and the Cup 2's dont really work, even with taction on i still turn the tyres
The toyos were prob the best i have had but i cant stand the noise they produce

 

I don’t think there’s a lot of tyres that will hold that kind of power to the road. I would love to try the Toyo, but they don’t make a 305 with 30 profile. I saw a video where the R888R out-gripped the Nitto on a 800+ hp supercharged mustang. The Nitto would probably perform better on a prepped track after a decent burnout. But I’ve read the soft sidewall on the Nittos makes the car roll a bit too much in corners. What pressures do you run on the back? I ran 34 psi warm. I ran 28 psi warm on the Nankangs - that was their recommendation.




I think the C63 S traction management is pretty pathetic. I can’t find a tune for it anywhere either. It could be managed better.

 

I run 36psi warm, not sue what year model coupe you have but i have a 2019, the traction control is like the GTR which is a 9 stage which works well sometimes

There is a post on this forum about running too low of a tyre pressure which could cause cracked rims

 

Mine is 2017. The 9 stage adjustment would help. The diff has sorted most of it out on mine. I feel comfortable with traction off completely, but if I go stage 2 or 3 that might change. The Wavetrac is quite an experience. It’s so controllable and predictable. It works in real-time and there’s no time delay between the diff computing. It’s noticeable under some conditions on the C63 S stock diff, but not as bad as on the F82 M4 and M3. It’s comes with a lifetime warrant as well. If you manage to break it, they simply replace it.

The Nankangs were fine on the low pressure. The tyre wall was ridiculously hard. On the Conti and PS4S you can bend it with your hand, but on the Nankang it was like steel. Does not move. You could feel the rigidity when driving and even at the low pressures it did not look flatter at the contact patch under the weight of the car.

I’ll take some photos of the Conti tyres in the back so you can see how the PS4S seemed fatter and closer to the guard than the Continental and Nankang. The PS4S also does not look as rounded around the edges, so it sits closer to the guards.