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Hello Everyone,
Has anyone had problems with the KMAC Rear kit slipping. Ever since I’ve had this kit it hasn’t helped with the inner tire wear even after two alignments. My alignment place did some investigating and noticed the Camber bushings are not holding their positions. You do the alignment and as soon as you drop the car the camber is off. One thing they did was torque the control arms to an 110 ftlbs which is higher than 77-95. They slipped again so we decided to replace the grade 8 bolts to new ones and retorque them to 110 lbs. I drove home and same thing happened again.Here are some pictures of the left side showing it slipping. I’m not talking bad about K-MAC because the front kit is working great, but the rears are causing me more money in tires and alignments than just having OEM bushings. Any advice would be helpful because I am unable to fix this problem.
Exact same thing happened on my w211 E55. Kmac in the front was outstanding. Kmac in the rear was nothing but a continuing source of frustration until I reached the point I removed the kmac bushings and reinstalled stock bushings.
Like you, I removed the 12 mm grade 8.8 bolts and replace them with 12 mm grade 10 bolts and torqued down to 110 foot pounds. No joy as the damn thing slipped out of alignment in less than a day. The alloy control arms are very soft and the metal literally flows/scrapes/deforms under the pressure of the steel teeth of the Kmac kit. When the bushing slips it kicks the toe of the rear wheel out and the car becomes extremely unstable. I will happily recommend kmac bushings in the front and I will emphatically not recommend kmac bushings in the rear.
It's a shame as the owner of k-mac is a nice guy and really trying to come up with a good design. After, however, the third iteration of the design on my car and it was still failing almost immediately each time, I pulled the plug and pulled the parts.
Best of luck to you.
Exact same thing happened on my w211 E55. Kmac in the front was outstanding. Kmac in the rear was nothing but a continuing source of frustration until I reached the point I removed the kmac bushings and reinstalled stock bushings.
Like you, I removed the 12 mm grade 8.8 bolts and replace them with 12 mm grade 10 bolts and torqued down to 110 foot pounds. No joy as the damn thing slipped out of alignment in less than a day. The alloy control arms are very soft and the metal literally flows/scrapes/deforms under the pressure of the steel teeth of the Kmac kit. When the bushing slips it kicks the toe of the rear wheel out and the car becomes extremely unstable. I will happily recommend kmac bushings in the front and I will emphatically not recommend kmac bushings in the rear.
It's a shame as the owner of k-mac is a nice guy and really trying to come up with a good design. After, however, the third iteration of the design on my car and it was still failing almost immediately each time, I pulled the plug and pulled the parts.
Best of luck to you.
Thanks for the reply. So basically I’d have to replace the control arm and KMAC bushing and hope it works. I was trying to not be cheap and find a solution for longevity, but for what I paid for the kit would have almost covered a set of rear tires. I got a year out of the tires with the Oem bushing so I’m not complaining. Guess I’ll start looking for the Oem bushings. Atleast then I don’t have to worry about it slipping and giving me extreme camber.
Design has been in production since 1993 (30 years).
Constantly proven "in all out heavy V8" - Competition racing.
Eccentric adjuster and time of alignment bushes must be fully tight 100ft/lbs (135NM).
As stated on instruction sheet: Essential / Recheck / Make Sure 2 Nuts Are Fully Tightened (Loose Nuts Cause Noise, Noticeable Camber Change).
What has happened here is initially not fully tight - the hardened teeth have rounded - No longer can clamp (there are 4 clamp areas internal and external).
K-MAC taking on the role of resolving OEM suspension shortcomings (lack of factory front and rear Camber adjustment facility). Yes there will always be controversy..... BUT IT IS ALL ABOUT NOT STANDING STILL - INSTEAD CONSTANT ONGOING DEVELOPMENT !
CURRENT UPDATES - Stressing re full tightness, Yes bolts are ultimate 10.9 grade.
RE W211 E55 AMG ALLOY CONTROL ARMS !
AS ABOVE - IT IS ALL ABOUT CONSTANT / ONGOING DEVELOPMENT (anything & everything can be improved - just look at the new car industry).
As shown in below "Spoiler" various instruction sheets - Alloy arms are now becoming increasingly popular.
AS INSTRUCTIONS SHOW - W211 and current model 205, 213, 238, C253, 257 and AMG models C63'S' Coupe, W213, 238, C253, C257.
ALL NOW HAVE ALLOY ARMS and as shown K-MAC design breakthrough transfers load TO 'STEEL' metal plates FULLY RESOLVING THIS ISSUE.
Kevin
Spoiler
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Hello Everyone,
Has anyone had problems with the KMAC Rear kit slipping. Ever since I’ve had this kit it hasn’t helped with the inner tire wear even after two alignments. My alignment place did some investigating and noticed the Camber bushings are not holding their positions. You do the alignment and as soon as you drop the car the camber is off. One thing they did was torque the control arms to an 110 ftlbs which is higher than 77-95. They slipped again so we decided to replace the grade 8 bolts to new ones and retorque them to 110 lbs. I drove home and same thing happened again.Here are some pictures of the left side showing it slipping. I’m not talking bad about K-MAC because the front kit is working great, but the rears are causing me more money in tires and alignments than just having OEM bushings. Any advice would be helpful because I am unable to fix this problem.
Wow … that look scary. The oem used a locking plate to prevent slipping. This is a different design
Design has been in production since 1993 (30 years).
Constantly proven "in all out heavy V8" - Competition racing.
Eccentric adjuster and time of alignment bushes must be fully tight 100ft/lbs (135NM).
As stated on instruction sheet: Essential / Recheck / Make Sure 2 Nuts Are Fully Tightened (Loose Nuts Cause Noise, Noticeable Camber Change).
What has happened here is initially not fully tight - the hardened teeth have rounded - No longer can clamp (there are 4 clamp areas internal and external).
K-MAC taking on the role of resolving OEM suspension shortcomings (lack of factory front and rear Camber adjustment facility). Yes there will always be controversy..... BUT IT IS ALL ABOUT NOT STANDING STILL - INSTEAD CONSTANT ONGOING DEVELOPMENT !
CURRENT UPDATES - Stressing re full tightness, Yes bolts are ultimate 10.9 grade.
RE W211 E55 AMG ALLOY CONTROL ARMS !
AS ABOVE - IT IS ALL ABOUT CONSTANT / ONGOING DEVELOPMENT (anything & everything can be improved - just look at the new car industry).
As shown in below "Spoiler" various instruction sheets - Alloy arms are now becoming increasingly popular.
AS INSTRUCTIONS SHOW - W211 and current model 205, 213, 238, C253, 257 and AMG models C63'S' Coupe, W213, 238, C253, C257.
ALL NOW HAVE ALLOY ARMS and as shown K-MAC design breakthrough transfers load TO 'STEEL' metal plates FULLY RESOLVING THIS ISSUE.
Kevin
Spoiler
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Wow this is awesome. I was really thinking of giving up and putting Oems in. Thanks so much and I’ll be sending a message.
Wow this is awesome. I was really thinking of giving up and putting Oems in. Thanks so much and I’ll be sending a message.
Hi as mentioned above (earlier this week) .... IT IS ALL ABOUT CONSTANT / ONGOING DEVELOPMENT.
Now have devised further design update.
SEE NEW #502226K REAR INSTRUCTION SHEET BELOW.
HAVING “IN-HOUSE” MANUFACTURE - Not sourcing imports / relabelling means total control over quality and allows rapid / constant implementation of new upgrades.
NOW NEW STEEL INNER MOUNT PLATES “lock in position” further securing mount strength !
From what MW told me, the current billet rear arms are ONLY for the non-S model. They are planning to release the version for S-models this year, which I've been waiting for.
WE ALSO MANUFACTURE “UPPER REAR CAMBER ARMS” for every model Mercedes Benz (including all ‘S’ models and W205 C63’S’ Coupe).
K-MAC’S ALSO INCLUDE “EXTRA” TOE ADJUSTMENT - To compensate for the addition of Camber adjustment (same as included with our lower arm kits).
C63 ‘S’ Coupe - #502226-3M $595 (Both Sides).
C63 ‘S’ Sedan & Wagon #502226-1M $595 (Both Sides).
WITH ALL THE FEATURES:
● Not soft billet alloy - but competition rated chromoly.
● “Including extra” Toe adjustment necessary to compensate for the addition of Camber adjustment.
● Hi Performance bushings - Experience of manufacturing longer then any other brand - 1964 !
BUT LOWER ARM ADJUSTERS ARE FAR MORE POPULAR - especially when wanting to resolve excess inner edge tire wear !
● Unlike upper arms they do not reduce important clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to resolve excess inner edge wear.
● Easier access to fit and adjust
● Most accurate adjustment is made direct on alignment rack “under load”.
● With K-MAC lower arm adjusters therefore it is fast - easily accessible single wrench - SIMPLY DIAL IN PRECISE ADJUSTMENT UNDER LOAD. No time consuming difficulty of access.
BACKGROUND WITH THE C63 ’S’ COUPE- This model OEM / FACTORY there is “one position” / inaccurate shim plates available providing “minuscule one offset position” 3.5mm (slightly more then 1/8 inch).
While the K-MAC Lower Arm kit “REPLACES THIS OEM MOUNT - PROVIDING SERIOUS ADJUSTMENT. 4 times the adjustment range and is precise (direct on alignment rack under load). FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME. Quickly dialing in Camber (and Toe change) for Street or Track #502326-1K $480 (S63 ‘S’ Sedan, Wagon #502226K $480)
