David M///

I'm sure you can make the links yourself if you're handy and you have the time (what you're paying for when you buy them is the R&D time). The links are not load bearing but you just have to make sure the ends do not come loose.
David M///

high roller

great it would be hell to get those to europe

John59

I'm thinking about getting these at
marchperf.com
under accesories
adjustable rod ends $43.00 a piece stainless steel and chrome moly adjustable 1.5 inches, pick your size.
You can order them through JEGS high performance
What do you think
John

lemonadesoda

Please report back if you buy/install these... very interesting

MercELITE

Why not just shorten the stock ones?

Cut in half w/grinder.

Cut out as much material needed for the desired length.

Then weld back together.

Simple.

Clk&Slk

Dude, try to weld it back without F##$%CK up the plastic bushing !!

User110

what happened with this idea?


and why does no one mention the washer method?



ALi

Clk&Slk

1) There's about 4-5 companies made these kind of linkeage.

2) Because CL owners are smarter then E owners to try that poorman mod.

User110

yea but I'm not trying to dish out a stack just to lower by computer, and dishing out 500 for some links, i mine as well get the computer



ALi

neutube

Other than TWS, who else sells these?
I found one other that claims they use MB parts and can install them for $350
someone in the E forums had MB part numbers for the links($50a set), anyone have them for the CL
... washers, longer bolts, and bending L brackets - this isn’t rocket science
1200 for the renntech isn't too horrible, but $100 and 2 hours spent on a saturday would be better

onelightmind

You sound like my type of guy....

I love my car and would rather throw money at
A. The Lorinser exhaust .... on the way
B. New tires for my new 20's ... happening fri
C. Installing my #%^!ng expensive full audio upgrade... early next week

but not "D" a module for $1200.00 or links.

I have lowered the front with 4 1/4" washers and it looks great and rides wonderful (tested to 140mph) The disadvantage is the rear is unfinished and the headlights are a bit off. So, I was wanting to experiment with a stock set of rear links. Maybe cut and weld something. Or grab something from home depot.... it can happen easily as you said it is only two ball joints and an ajustable connecting rod. If I can spent an hour and $10.00 total, I just made 4 or 5 hundred for the hr. and I'm in the link business. I will update you guys with my "Frankenlinks" when they are fresh from the lab.

Does anyone have an old set of stock links they would be willing to part
with?? AND, if not, how long are the stock rear links?? Center of bolt to center of bolt???

User110

my ****in dude, you seriously are outdoing yourself lol, keep it up.

as far as the links, i wouldn't know how but if you can look up the lengths of the OEM links, and find a link off maybe the S class or E class or so, thats shorter it would work.


how long have you had the washers on?



ALi

deviilsadvocate

would love to see a step by step with picture of how this washer method works on the cl? Wanna contribute it onelightmind?

User110

+1!!!!




ALi

beacham

i have put on a kit from www.adjustableairride.com it was a good price and easy to fit.

Patentmat

I lowered the same way as the poster, worked great, still raises for driveways if you need it to, still lowers at freeway speeds. I put 305s on the back tires so they occasionally rub on the freeway (maybe once every 10 miles) but less and less nowadays. Had it for months now no damage to the tires. Ride is fine, a little jittery with the low profile but I like it.

User110

it'll rub like that until it rubs away that tire in the spot of contact. be careful



ALi

onelightmind

Looking forward to getting that exhaust it is the least I could do for you guys.
SO I have been riding on a lowered front for about 5 months.... all for about $.98 Total... Unless you count multiple trips to the local Hardware store to find the correct size washer

Tools.

1. Cheapy socket set
2. Mercedes Jack
3. Soap
4. Bag of 1/4" washers or #10 from Home Depot or Lowes... you need 10-12 and you will probably have extra. (I forgot which size so buy em both)

Time.

Less than 20min


1.Jack up the car at the front
2.Locate top of front link which sticks through upper shock attachment. (I did not remove either tire, but you can if you wish... not necessary.) Refer once again to the photos above (having problems uploading photos) Look at top of front link with tire off and photo of stock link off the car NOTE the threads at the top of the link and location it sticks through suspension arm...

You should see the Arm with the car jacked up. Look carefully at the top of the link.
3.Feel for a nut on top of the arm, in thread location...find the appropriate socket and loosen.
4.Remove nut and pull down on link.
5.Stack 4 or 5 washers on top of link, put link back up through hole and fiinger tighten nut.
6.Tighten nut with socket. (There may only be a few threads sticking through to tighten so make sure you do it good)
7. Remove jack and start car...
8. Watch it drop
9. Decide if it is too little or too much and do it to the other side....

PRESTO the 20min $.98 Drop

I need the specs on the rear links or some extras. I WILL go to home depot or other hardware store and develope a Super Duper Cheap Drop kit for the back, and a proper ajustable one for the front for people like us who ENJOY actually saying they did it ALL themselves for less than a quarter pounder with cheese meal from McDonalds.

REMEMBER... For the computer to adjust the suspension the front links must get LONGER so stack the washers UNDER the arm spacing the LINK not on top adding washers to space the nut..... I know this sounds stupid to remind you all, but if it can save one person frustration it is worth mentioning.

P.S. MOD This entire thread should be a sticky.

User110

freakin sweeeet thanks One!!!!



ALi

deviilsadvocate

Hey Onelightmind, would love to see some pictures maybe with where the wrenches and all them washers, go, etc .. (For the mechanically challenged like myself). I know it's a lot to ask for, but think about it this way.. If you post an actual step by step you'd be helping all of us and you may actually be immortalized as a "Sticky" Thanks for your help.

onelightmind

I will try to do it soon

Patentmat

ALi, I see absolutely nothing on the tire to indicate damage - - is this something that would be visible?

User110

i would assume so, yes?

from my experience with this kind of issue, i had a tire wear down on one side of the edge because it was subbing against a strut tower plate, didn't do any damage, just the tire wore down on one side.

if your just getting minimal rubbing, don't sweat it. that would happen when the car dips real low like over bumps and such.




ALi

onelightmind

Mine would rub a bit when i hit a dip or road transition hauling ***. All i see is a small cut arount the edge where the sheetmetal from the fender would slightly rub... hardly visible. I would think your plastic mud guard/fender liner would rub away before the tire.

User110

yea, should be cool. i still havent mounted my wheels yet, waiting on proper lugs.



ALi