David M///

Hello all. I have been lurking about for a few years, but rarely posted as I never had anything relevant to contribute. But recently, I have been wanting to lower my W215 CL600 (albeit slightly) and have been reading previous posts on the subject by awiner, Clk&Slk, James L, davepl, jl88, and AMG2GO (thank you all, and I apologize if I missed anyone). After reading pros and cons of both lowering methods (electronically vs. mechanically), I decided to go with the mechanical solution because I wanted the ability to adjust the ride height of each wheel individually and to easily get my car back to stock for warranty purposes. So I gave Sander and Albert a call at The Wheel Supply (TWS) in Walnut California (909) 468-1311. Albert, a very talented ex-Brabus tech, had just finished developing a lowering kit for both front and rear of the CL. TWS’ kit includes four very nice adjustable links (one for each corner of the car) and charges $495 installed. One end of the link attaches to the height sensor and the other end bolts onto the suspension arm. The ride height of each wheel can then be adjusted by lengthening or shortening each link. The front is lowered by lengthening the links and the rear is lowered by shortening the links. Each half-turn of the front link adjusts the ride height by about an eighth of an inch while each full turn of the rear link adjusts the ride height by an eighth of an inch. The stock links can be easily reinstalled by removing a nut on each end of each link. The fronts are easier to replace than the rears because, for the rear, you first need to remove a plastic cover on the underside of the rear suspension arm (no big deal, the cover comes off by removing 4 plastic push pins). I know there are differing opinions on which method of lowering is better (regardless of price), so you’ll just have to make your own decision. I have no affiliation with TWS, I was just impressed by the quality of their kit and of Albert’s talent. Here are some pictures for those interested:

Before lowering:


After lowering:


Stock front link:


Front links (the TWS link is on the left and the stock link is on the right):


Rear links (the stock link is on the left and the TWS link is on the right):


Rear TWS link installed:


Another after shot:

giggalo

im confused here. I thought the only way to lower this car is via a lowering module that tricks the electronic suspension to lower itself another inch. Are these LINKS youre talking about and alternative to the module? Can be used in conjunction to the module?

lexlyf

After rereading the original post, my take on it was that you have 1 of 2 methods to lower the suspension...(1)being the electronic method and (2) the mechanical method, which David M/// selected the second.

My only question would be if you decided to go the mechanical route & the links are already adjusted at a lowered stance, what happens if you, or the car itself, decides to lower the suspension? Does it lower even more or is there a sensor that indicates a safe zone just prior to "bottoming out?"

I must say that the more I research on these cars, the more interested I become from the electronics aspect of these late model MB cars.

Hopefully someone will chime in.

David M///

lexlyf is correct. There are 2 ways to lower the CL. If you search the archives, you will see that the 2 methods have been thoroughly discussed. I'm not sure I fully understand your question, but the stock links are not adjustable. If you lower the car with TWS' adjustable links, I believe that the car will still lower itself at higher speeds. I'm just not sure if there is an automatic sensor to avoid bottoming out -- which is another reason why you don't want to "slam" the car.

CLFREAK

Does this setup allow you to still RAISE the car if necessary for speed bumps, etc. just like when it was stock? In other words, it doesn't deactivate the switch in the car, right? This is key, as you DO NOT want it to be in a fixed low level all the time and not be able to adjust it up when driving issues call for it.

AMG2GO

Stock switch is not deactivated. You can still raise the car. If you lower about an inch, you can go back to stock with the dash switch, because thats what the switch does, raise about 1" at the high setting.

David M, car looks nice! I am biased of course to that color... Dave PM me your last name, I think I may know you from elsewhere.

giggalo

there is an electronic lowering module and these links that david m installed. theoretically, you can put both on right?

AMG2GO

You could... but why would you? you can certainly adjust mechanical links until the car looks like a low rider if you really had to do that... so why would you want to use both?

giggalo

didnt know to what extent they lowered the car to.

D2-AUTOSPORT

Car looks very clean and lowering (IMO) is a must for these vehicles. The links method is cool, I just think remember to raise the car at highway speeds would annoy the hell out of me lol! (i prefer aggressive lowering, so that mens at highway speeds it would go too low and rub).

Your lowering is more moderate so you may not have that issue. Nice nontheless.

AMG2GO

Yes, you will not have ANY problems if you lower the car 1" mechanically, even at 90 MPH where the car drops down even lower. Its actually quite aerodynamic that way.

The thing is that in Europe, the CL sits .8" lower than the U.S. Version anyway... it was raised here for safety reasons to increase bumper height.... might have escalades to thank for that one. But an inch is just about the right amount of drop for this car and there are no issues on the highway.

m258

excellent post david

how is the ride comfort????

David M///

The ride comfort does not change at all, which is the beauty of lowering a CL

Thanks to all for the positive comments.

And AMG2GO is correct on all his responses and comments (PM sent, and I can't guess where I may know you from).

clk22

is this a do-it your self or would u recommend professional installation.

Thanks thinking about getting it for my dads cl500

David M///

Look at the pictures. That's what it looks like when you pull the wheels off. It's a do-it-yourself project if you can get the links, and if you install it correctly (not striping the threads and using locktight where needed). Be aware that it could be dangerous if you mess up the installation and the links come off while you're driving.
David

neonflx

I lifted my car today on a hyd lift and was able to quicly id the location of the links based on David M pictures.

Like Davin M says make sure to use locktie, i know i will

I have a couple questions

when installing the links, do i need to make sure that they are screwed about the same amount of threads(or do they come zeroed from TWS) before install them and adjust as necessary?

once i adjust the linkage, do i need to have the car running with abc on to see how high it is? or would i be able to tell once the car is on the ground not running

does having abc on matters when adjusting at all?

David M///

I don't know how TWS adjusts the links before shipping them because they installed mine. I guess you just have to compare the length of each link to the original links and adjust them as necessary. Even TWS had to remove the wheels several times until the car sat level and at the height I wanted. After each adjustment, drive the car around the block and make sure the area where you're taking ride-height measurement is flat and level.
I don't understand your last question as you can't turn off abc (unless you're referring to ABC Sport mode, which I don't think matters).
Also make sure there's enough thread biting into the barrel part of the adjusters so the end-links don't strip out. The links are non-load bearing, but still...
Did TWS send any instructions with the links? If not, I highly recommend calling them if you have technical questions. Good luck.
David

OC kid

The links work great. The presice flexibility at each wheel is key. After I get rid of this rim/tire combo I'll be able to adjust for the change in wheel/tire size.

I included before and after pics-sorry for the weak angles and shadows-I'm a horrible photographer.

David M///

Looks good OC.
David M///

OC kid

David M///-

Glad you approve.

Thanks once again to you for the heads up on the info.

OC kid

toolsivan

For me, there is no option. Go electronic. That one I can even self-install. The digital unit from RennTech can be adjusted wheel by wheel. It can even be put back to stock by rotating the function switch to position 0.

Installing was easy: One must know two things: How o cleanly solder wires together and how to insulate them (perhaps the best with heat-shrink tubing).
My CLS install took about three hours, and I am slow at these things. I recommend to instal modules like RennTech describes in their user manuals, step-by-step (cut one wire at a time, solder two RennTech harness wires to it and immediately 'beep' it out for good connection AND to prove a proper wire was cut. Only then go to the next wire. The user manuals are available to download:
http://www.renntechmercedes.com/Show_Sus_Low.html

neonflx

i am not an expert by anymeans when it comes to talikng about all this electronic stuff, but i just don't get it, i personally ordered the linkage solution and just await the arrival of my new wheels to install, the electronic stuff wil seem prompt to something going wrong not to mention the Outrageous price, I know that money goes into research and development and that companies are in the business of making money I just don’t get it as far as the prices must be the supply and demand factor since there are not many Benz owners that would like to lower their cars (just an assumption) the price per unit have to be high to pay for the cost of R&Dor is it? I have no clue just speculating, anyway I will install my mechanical linkage and see how it goes.

OC kid

neonflx:

You are right, it's nothing more than personal choice-computer geeks will tend to want to spend cash on circuitry while pure automotive enthusiasts will likely vie for the mechanical approach.

When you weigh the cost factor (that aftermarket electronic thing costs $1300 and change) and reliability; the mechanical method wins hands down in my opinion.

Why anyone would want to bootleg an aftermarket electronic circuit to the "super-computer" on board this car is beyond me. As for your other point-the majority of the cash spent on that purchase price funds the overhead on the brand name.

The TWS links are actually burlier than the stock links (though it's not a structural component) and if you examine the design, the principal is so simple; it's genious. To me, mechanical wins out over electronic everytime.

I'm sure you'll be pleased with your decision.

Make sure to get the car on a level surface beforehand and measure the distance from ground surface to the bottom of wheel well centerpoint at each wheel. Then, have fun bringing it down just how you want it at each wheel; exercising the steering in between adjustments with ignition on to allow for settling.

herzog racing

how much are they not installed

high roller

is it just me and because im from holland, but the "bars" are looking simple to made by youreself, just a few hardware store stuff??