kfillhart

2001 Cl600 got it a month ago. Car rides fine but within 10 seconds after turning the engine off the front end starts lowering. I can watch it slowly sink about an inch sometimes over 2 inches down in about 20 seconds and the rear raises 1/2 inch. While this is happening there is a high pitch whine from the drivers side under the hood against firewall where the computers are. About 30 seconds total after the car is turned off the whine stops and I here what sounds like a relay click. Instantly the suspension stops moving and never moves again until the car is started when I put it in gear or press the ride height button it goes back to normal.

-The car has the newer version valve block so someone has replaced it.
-Fluid is reading on the full mark.
-I cleaned the exterior of all lines with parts cleaner then inspected them for leaks. The line to the passanger side shock had some moisture around the fitting so I replaced it.
-No malfunction or warning light on

Most of the ABC suspension problems people have are sinking over a day or weeks. Mine does it as soon as I turn the car off.
???Any ideas???

P.S. sorry about another ABC posting

Solo_D33A

my car does something similar... sometimes after a drive, and turn off, it'll lower itself usually on 1 side only... and sometimes when I am waiting for someone, and the car is on after I got there, a few minutes passed, the car lowers itself, again, I can only feel on 1 side or maybe both, but one side more than the other...

I've checked the height of the car after turned off and lowered, it's at normal height...

What I was thinking is that the ABC was set on 1 side higher after a turn then we stop the car and turned it off, it now knows there's no more turns, thus returning to normal height... just a thought...

Malibuguy

If the car is tilting while you are sitting in it- you have a problem.
The software doesn't re-level until you are moving forward again.

Unfortunately, many dealers are unable to figure out the problem the first time around because the system is complicated. But it needs to be fixed or else you are going to need a new ABC pump prematurely. Plus it is annoying to drive a car that way.

Malibuguy

You have a problem. Don't let them tell you that is normal. It is not. The early CL's have an additional reservoir which can go bad and leak. This happened to me I went to 3 dealers and went through 2 ABC pumps in 3 months.

kfillhart

New information to original post:
I disconnected the front left sensor rod connected to the upper control arm and pushed the rod up. Started the car, let it level to normal height, and shut it off. After turning the car off the whole left side stayed up, really high too! This gives me some hope there nothing serious wrong. Does anyone out there know how to test those sensors?

Malibuguy

I am not an expert;(.
But in my experience the sensors are not the weak link. ABC system is very flawed and unreliable. Good thing it has been abandoned by MB . The 2011 CL 550 doesn't have it.

slonar21

Don't know about the 550, but the 600 still has ABC

"The Active Body Control suspension system – which ushered in new dimensions of driving dynamics in the preceding CL-Class in 1999 – is unique worldwide as it not only regulates roll, but pitching and squatting movements as well, ensuring a perfect harmony of comfort and handling stability. Since the introduction of this innovative system, engineers in Sindelfingen have continuously refined it, so that eleven years later it still marks the pinnacle of automotive engineering. In addition to crosswind stabilization, the new suspension features an energy-optimized hydraulic pump that takes part of the burden off the engine, contributing towards reducing fuel consumption."

Ifari

Here's what you need to know...

For Model 215/220

Equipped with Code 487 (Active Body Control) RANDOM VEHICLE LEVEL
If the vehicle lowers randomly while driving or sporadically after stopping the vehicle, replace the body acceleration sensors with a manufacturing date greater than year 2002 wk. 01.

Note: Do not replace any other ABC suspension components.

Qty= 3; Part Name= Acceleration Sensor; Part Number= A004 542 35 18

Replace the two FRONT (left and right) Accel. Sensors for ABC and the REAR (right) Accel. Sensor for ABC.

Labour should be about 0.6 hrs for each of the two front sensors and 2.2 hrs labour for the right rear sensor. Call your dealer for parts pricing.

Also, try to apply 'significant' braking torque to the brake pedal when stopping the car as the ABC system is in Active mode when driving and the conditon you describe occurs when the sensors heat up on the circuit board after extended driving, then has "contact issues" if insufficient brake torque is not applied.
The random vehicle level condition will not occur when the ABC is in Passive mode, as the car only enters Passive mode a few seconds after the Tranny has been put into Park.

There are actually 4 Accel. Sensors on the car, but the 3 mentioned are known to have the problem "contact issues" on Model 215.

Good luck.

Ifari

Sounds like you need a Ride Height Calibration.

Malibuguy

Wow MB still believes in this ABC! I will not buy another CL if it has ABC. I have had a horrible time with my CL due to this awful system.

mf219

Ifari, my 2004 CL500 drops dramatically while parked only if I leave it running. It doesn't drop while parked (and shut off) for long stretches. The ABC fluid level is correct. I've never had any ABC warning lights. The car drives perfectly. Could this have something to do with the above mentioned Passive mode, and is it cause for concern?

Ifari

I honestly don't know.

kfillhart

Does ride height calibrating need done by the dealer or is it something that can be accomplished without the software?

kfillhart

Another update: The front drops and rear raises for 20seconds after car is off and after hearing a click it stops. If I open the door and close it while the car is off the front drops more and rear raises more for 20seconds and after the click it stops. If I open and close the door again it does it again. After 4 or 5 times opening and closing the door the front is as low as it can go and rear as high as it can go. Anyone ever experience that?

kfillhart

Problem Fixed!
The clicking noise I was hearing after 30 seconds when the suspension stopped moving came from the rear valve block. A valve must have been sticking inside causing pressure to be removed from the front and added to the rear making the rear lift and front drop. It is normal for the valve blocks to get power when the door is open so every time I opened a door it caused the rear valve to stick for another 30 seconds. Went to my local junk yard and they had no idea what a valve block was, I showed it to them on their wrecked car, bought it for $100, and I'm driving again
So a bad valve block can not only cause your car to drop over time it can also cause your car to lift immediately after turning off.

Ifari

Glad to hear things worked out for you....thanks for sharing the input.

cabbe

Did you change the valve block yourself?

Or if you paid someone to exchange it, how much did it cost?

kfillhart

Did it myself and it only took about an hour, easy work. Topped off fluid and hit the lift button a few times and everything worked fine.

Right now I'm taking the cylinder heads off to repair the famous oil cooler leak. What a job! I'll post pictures and tips/tricks to make the oil cooler job easier after I'm done.

So I bought a cl600 and on the drive home the electronic plate went bad in the transmission and the oil cooler leaked that someone had cleaned up to hide from me, and had a bad suspension valve block (I at least had a heads up on that one). Wanted to sell it but would have felt bad sticking it to someone else. Maybe someday I'll get to drive it for more than a day.

cabbe

[QUOTE=kfillhart;4466148]Did it myself and it only took about an hour, easy work. Topped off fluid and hit the lift button a few times and everything worked fine.

Any chance you took any pictures or could explain how you did it?

I need the exchange one of my valve blocks too.

kfillhart

[quote=cabbe;4469405]
No pics were taken on the valve block, it really is a straight forward simple procedure.

I have now completed the oil cooler repair involving removal of the engine cylinder heads. I will post pictures and a short write-up with some tips and tricks on that 20+ hr job soon.

cabbe

Aren't the lines running in and out of the valve block under high pressure? Did you empty out the oil first before you removed the valve block?

kfillhart

There is not as much pressure to the lines as you would think. All I did was jack the car up so the wheels were completely off the ground. Put a bucket under the valve block. Loosened a line and let the fluid drip into the bucket. Removed all lines then removed the valve block assembly. Reinstall the new one and put the lines back on. Topped off the reservoir with new oil (chf-11) and started the car pressing the ride height button a few times and all was perfect.

Jud Chapin

Thanks, good to know.

cabbe

I have been told that the car has 3 valve blocks and the one that is broken on mine is the rear valve block.

Could you tell me where it is located?

Thanks!

s5benzo

kfillhart , i posted na v12 engine pics on benzworld ... it was all torn apart for the oil cooler repair. you would be the first one to post a diy on the oil cooler plate with pictures on here...im sure myself and other forum members would love that. i will be waiting for your post, thank you and goodluck.