ABC Prob different than most
-The car has the newer version valve block so someone has replaced it.
-Fluid is reading on the full mark.
-I cleaned the exterior of all lines with parts cleaner then inspected them for leaks. The line to the passanger side shock had some moisture around the fitting so I replaced it.
-No malfunction or warning light on
Most of the ABC suspension problems people have are sinking over a day or weeks. Mine does it as soon as I turn the car off.
???Any ideas???
P.S. sorry about another ABC posting
Last edited by kfillhart; Dec 21, 2010 at 12:44 AM.
I've checked the height of the car after turned off and lowered, it's at normal height...
What I was thinking is that the ABC was set on 1 side higher after a turn then we stop the car and turned it off, it now knows there's no more turns, thus returning to normal height... just a thought...
I've checked the height of the car after turned off and lowered, it's at normal height...
What I was thinking is that the ABC was set on 1 side higher after a turn then we stop the car and turned it off, it now knows there's no more turns, thus returning to normal height... just a thought...

The software doesn't re-level until you are moving forward again.
Unfortunately, many dealers are unable to figure out the problem the first time around because the system is complicated. But it needs to be fixed or else you are going to need a new ABC pump prematurely. Plus it is annoying to drive a car that way.
-The car has the newer version valve block so someone has replaced it.
-Fluid is reading on the full mark.
-I cleaned the exterior of all lines with parts cleaner then inspected them for leaks. The line to the passanger side shock had some moisture around the fitting so I replaced it.
-No malfunction or warning light on
Most of the ABC suspension problems people have are sinking over a day or weeks. Mine does it as soon as I turn the car off.
???Any ideas???
P.S. sorry about another ABC posting
I disconnected the front left sensor rod connected to the upper control arm and pushed the rod up. Started the car, let it level to normal height, and shut it off. After turning the car off the whole left side stayed up, really high too! This gives me some hope there nothing serious wrong. Does anyone out there know how to test those sensors?
Last edited by kfillhart; Dec 22, 2010 at 04:07 PM.
"The Active Body Control suspension system – which ushered in new dimensions of driving dynamics in the preceding CL-Class in 1999 – is unique worldwide as it not only regulates roll, but pitching and squatting movements as well, ensuring a perfect harmony of comfort and handling stability. Since the introduction of this innovative system, engineers in Sindelfingen have continuously refined it, so that eleven years later it still marks the pinnacle of automotive engineering. In addition to crosswind stabilization, the new suspension features an energy-optimized hydraulic pump that takes part of the burden off the engine, contributing towards reducing fuel consumption."
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I've checked the height of the car after turned off and lowered, it's at normal height...
What I was thinking is that the ABC was set on 1 side higher after a turn then we stop the car and turned it off, it now knows there's no more turns, thus returning to normal height... just a thought...

For Model 215/220
Equipped with Code 487 (Active Body Control) RANDOM VEHICLE LEVEL
If the vehicle lowers randomly while driving or sporadically after stopping the vehicle, replace the body acceleration sensors with a manufacturing date greater than year 2002 wk. 01.
Note: Do not replace any other ABC suspension components.
Qty= 3; Part Name= Acceleration Sensor; Part Number= A004 542 35 18
Replace the two FRONT (left and right) Accel. Sensors for ABC and the REAR (right) Accel. Sensor for ABC.
Labour should be about 0.6 hrs for each of the two front sensors and 2.2 hrs labour for the right rear sensor. Call your dealer for parts pricing.
Also, try to apply 'significant' braking torque to the brake pedal when stopping the car as the ABC system is in Active mode when driving and the conditon you describe occurs when the sensors heat up on the circuit board after extended driving, then has "contact issues" if insufficient brake torque is not applied.
The random vehicle level condition will not occur when the ABC is in Passive mode, as the car only enters Passive mode a few seconds after the Tranny has been put into Park.
There are actually 4 Accel. Sensors on the car, but the 3 mentioned are known to have the problem "contact issues" on Model 215.
Good luck.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I disconnected the front left sensor rod connected to the upper control arm and pushed the rod up. Started the car, let it level to normal height, and shut it off. After turning the car off the whole left side stayed up, really high too! This gives me some hope there nothing serious wrong. Does anyone out there know how to test those sensors?
"The Active Body Control suspension system – which ushered in new dimensions of driving dynamics in the preceding CL-Class in 1999 – is unique worldwide as it not only regulates roll, but pitching and squatting movements as well, ensuring a perfect harmony of comfort and handling stability. Since the introduction of this innovative system, engineers in Sindelfingen have continuously refined it, so that eleven years later it still marks the pinnacle of automotive engineering. In addition to crosswind stabilization, the new suspension features an energy-optimized hydraulic pump that takes part of the burden off the engine, contributing towards reducing fuel consumption."
The clicking noise I was hearing after 30 seconds when the suspension stopped moving came from the rear valve block. A valve must have been sticking inside causing pressure to be removed from the front and added to the rear making the rear lift and front drop. It is normal for the valve blocks to get power when the door is open so every time I opened a door it caused the rear valve to stick for another 30 seconds. Went to my local junk yard and they had no idea what a valve block was, I showed it to them on their wrecked car, bought it for $100
, and I'm driving again
So a bad valve block can not only cause your car to drop over time it can also cause your car to lift immediately after turning off.
Did it myself and it only took about an hour, easy work. Topped off fluid and hit the lift button a few times and everything worked fine.
Right now I'm taking the cylinder heads off to repair the famous oil cooler leak. What a job! I'll post pictures and tips/tricks to make the oil cooler job easier after I'm done.
So I bought a cl600 and on the drive home the electronic plate went bad in the transmission and the oil cooler leaked that someone had cleaned up to hide from me, and had a bad suspension valve block (I at least had a heads up on that one). Wanted to sell it but would have felt bad sticking it to someone else. Maybe someday I'll get to drive it for more than a day.
Any chance you took any pictures or could explain how you did it?
I need the exchange one of my valve blocks too.
No pics were taken on the valve block, it really is a straight forward simple procedure.
I have now completed the oil cooler repair involving removal of the engine cylinder heads. I will post pictures and a short write-up with some tips and tricks on that 20+ hr job soon.
There is not as much pressure to the lines as you would think. All I did was jack the car up so the wheels were completely off the ground. Put a bucket under the valve block. Loosened a line and let the fluid drip into the bucket. Removed all lines then removed the valve block assembly. Reinstall the new one and put the lines back on. Topped off the reservoir with new oil (chf-11) and started the car pressing the ride height button a few times and all was perfect.




