I just recently did the following on my SL55 (posted in the SL forum, but haven't gotten any help):

replaced front valve block
replaced front valve block accumulator
rebuilt rear valve block
replaced rear valve block accumulator
replaced pulsation dampener
replaced return line accumulator/dampener
replaced hose that goes from front valve block to left strut
replaced hose that goes from front valve block to right strut
replaced hose that goes from pump to pulsation dampener/pressure limiting valve

here's my problem, when I start the car pressure builds to 250 bar. Pressure is supposed to be regulated to 200 bar. The high pressure in the system is causing fluid to just pour our of the pressure limiting valve. I replaced the pressure limiting valve thinking it might be the problem, but the system still remained at 250 bar and after about 10 minutes at idle the new pressure relief valve starting pouring out fluid.

The hose that goes from the pump to the pulsation dampener originally had some sort of metal inside of the first flexible rubber hose section, very similar to a power steering line that has it dampen noise as a flow restrictor. When I replaced that hose I had one built with flare nut ends and as a result it does not have the piece of metal inside of the first rubber hose.

I'm thinking either the new hose is the reason the pressure is too high and I keep blowing pressure relief valves (not sure if they are trashed now or not) or maybe the suction restrictor on the pump isn't working correctly (at some point in the past someone had replaced the pump and for some reason the wiring going to the suction restrictor on the pump was cut and then spliced back together). Anyone have any clue on this?

The pressure relief valve is leaking out of the bolt next to the pressure sensor. Originally it had what looks like a cap in it in the middle. When it started leaking this cap blew off and there is an allen wrench head underneath now showing. Do I need the cap thing back on to get the thing to stop leaking? (I have no clue where it is btw) Do I need to turn the allen wrench head at all and if so which direction and how much?

I am totally lost here and super frustrated as I have spent an enormous amount of time and money on this suspension refresh project.

 

Of all the parts you change you didn't change the pump , it may be defective and building too much pressure

I had that happen with another car power steering pump , it kept blowing out my rack and pinion

 

the issue with the OEM pump to pulsation dampener hose is that I could find no possible way to remove it without removing the AC compressor, which would not be a simple or easy task. I ended up just cutting the factory flex hose in order to get it out of the engine compartment. I took the OEM hose to a hydraulic hose shop and had them weld AN fitting on the end of each hard line and rubber flex hose with removable threaded swivel fittings on each end. This made it so that when the flexible portions need replaced in the future it is a simple and easy job. If the flow restrictor is only engineered and designed in the OEM part to act as a sound suppressor, then it is not needed. If it is what is causing my problem, then I will have to order that part, which BTW is not cheap. That's why I asked the question to try and find out what others have found out as I know many CL owners have replaced hoses with compression ends, which is inferior to what I had done.

 

pump was running properly at 200 bar prior to the overhaul. I imagine with your PS pump on another car the pressure regulator failed. The ABC pump doesn't have a pressure regulator. It can only restrict fluid going into it by opening/closing the suction valve and/or venting out excess pressure from the pressure relief valve.

 

The suction restriction valve sounds like the issue, it's supposed to limit flow as the pressure builds, and it sounds like it's not doing that. Is there an actual value in DAS for the commanded pressure or suction valve percentage? See if it looks normal, if the car is trying to control pressure and it's not dropping, you either have a piece of debris holding the valve open or it went bad.

 

tried testing the suction restrictor valve and the return line hose from the rear valve block exploded due to too much pressure FML. I've decided to just take it to an indy shop and have them deal with it and it'll cost what it costs.