CL-Class (W215) 2000-2006: CL 500, CL 600

Cl600 chargecooler bleeding

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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 11:55 AM
  #26  
HgoAMG's Avatar
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SL 65 AMG
I make 4x 5L cycles without schrader valves and I see that from left side ( passenger ) plenum valve cooland circulate faster.
From 4 cycles bubles still bleeding and bleeding. I do not see fully filled wires with coolant.
I probably do not make fully vacum before. Just turn on vacum pump and open connections.
How much time your vacum pump working before open valves ?
It get cooland from tank correctly.

I am waiting for connections that open little schraders without unscrewing.
I made it wrong becouse when driving 60 km/h like you said IAR was 65-70'C. In city ~80'C, outsite air temp 24'C, but it help a litte bit, before it I have higher temp when was 15'C outside :P
Also hope that is bleeding only and all are fine with car. Additional I will install Maybach M279 reseivor tank with all original connections.

Last edited by HgoAMG; Apr 28, 2018 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 12:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HgoAMG
I make 4x 5L cycles without schrader valves and I see that from left side ( passenger ) plenum valve cooland circulate faster.
From 4 cycles bubles still bleeding and bleeding. I do not see fully filled wires with coolant.
I probably do not make fully vacum before. Just turn on vacum pump and open connections.
How much time your vacum pump working before open valves ?
It get cooland from tank correctly.

I am waiting for connections that open little schraders without unscrewing.
I made it wrong becouse when driving 60 km/h like you said IAR was 65-70'C. In city ~80'C, outsite air temp 24'C, but it help a litte bit, before it I have higher temp when was 15'C outside :P
Also hope that is bleeding only and all are fine with car. Additional I will install Maybach M279 reseivor tank with all original connections.
IT TAKES CLOSE TO 1 HOUR TO GET THE BUBBLES OUT

you can't compare my temps with your setup with 1 normal pump with my double piersburg + full size S600 radiator

Last edited by pmercury; Apr 28, 2018 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 12:55 PM
  #28  
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SL 65 AMG
Ok, thanks.
It's the way to check how IAR temps are norm in SL65 AMG ?
I will tune up intake cooling system but in first want to restore full efficiency on stock.
I know thats not fine becouse " Air intake temp to high " when read errors.
Bro when your car stop and engine working on idle what temp will be ?
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 03:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HgoAMG
Ok, thanks.
It's the way to check how IAR temps are norm in SL65 AMG ?
I will tune up intake cooling system but in first want to restore full efficiency on stock.
I know thats not fine becouse " Air intake temp to high " when read errors.
Bro when your car stop and engine working on idle what temp will be ?
my intake temp in city is high 60-70 degrees celcius
the only way to check is with DAS
:
or maybe if you don't have that you can try the airco secret menu:

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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 07:50 PM
  #30  
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SL 65 AMG
When I doing bleeding IAR temp was about 50-60'C on idle with pump off.
I am checking it via cheap ( 3 EUR ) OBDII bluetooth + android app Torque.
It is really amazing, a lot of functions etc.

When new connections arrive I will make bleeding again.
Is that possible that after pump replace and take off all coolant from circulation and put new my system need more than 20L cycle ?
Maybe my vacum pump are to strong becouse I saw that when I leave it for the moment and the vacum was builded my wires was pull inside.
( I bought the same transparent wires like yours ).

Last edited by HgoAMG; Apr 28, 2018 at 07:53 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 04:18 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by HgoAMG
When I doing bleeding IAR temp was about 50-60'C on idle with pump off.
I am checking it via cheap ( 3 EUR ) OBDII bluetooth + android app Torque.
It is really amazing, a lot of functions etc.

When new connections arrive I will make bleeding again.
Is that possible that after pump replace and take off all coolant from circulation and put new my system need more than 20L cycle ?
Maybe my vacum pump are to strong becouse I saw that when I leave it for the moment and the vacum was builded my wires was pull inside.
( I bought the same transparent wires like yours ).
need more than 20L cycle > sometimes, but, once you swapped you coolant completely like service after a year or two, you reuse the new coolant to cycle, don't trash it, only trash the first old coolant

if you don't use the the "always on relay trick" and you are stock, you can reproduce manual ON OFF with a wire or modified RELAY
just open a relay fitting the IC pump relay and block it on "always contact so pump ON
then to reproduce on - off just PLUG and UNPLUG this relay manually to put pump on off for bleeding

the last manual ON OF sequence is crucial as to see if you bleed correctly, when you ON the pump, there should be NO bubbles at all NOTHING
you must use pieces of transparent hose an connections
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 04:20 AM
  #32  
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about torque, its nice helping, I posted a article for what to buy as cheap and good
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 04:31 AM
  #33  
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SL 65 AMG
Ok thanks Bro for you help.

So when bleeding will done correctly when I press schrader valves without plug bleeding tool fluid will leak ?
Now in morning when I press schraders valves only little bit of air go outside.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 04:21 PM
  #34  
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From: Briarcliff, Texas
2007 Mercedes SL600
I need to replace my intercooler pump with new Bosch pump and install the M279 mod on my 2007 SL600.


You provided link to 3 piece hose set to connect to the intercooler bleed valves.
Is the yellow hose (2 yellow are needed) the correct hose to use when vacuum bleed and refill of coolant?
As soon as the yellow hose is screwed onto the intercooler bleed valve, will air/fluid leak out unless shut off handle is in closed position on yellow hose?
Can you provide info on the correct fluid to use on low temp cooling circuit?

Thank you
Don
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 04:31 PM
  #35  
2007 SL600's Avatar
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From: Briarcliff, Texas
2007 Mercedes SL600
Originally Posted by pmercury
leave it on the engine
I switched to flexible as if you bleed much like me with all my work on this car, you end up with bending and killing the connector gaskets
so this system is flexible and you'll never have dead gaskets

you do a full vacuum, by this I mean, input closed, you let vacuum build up, then open the input

you start with bleeding with pump off
once you have no more bubbles then

you put bleed on and turn key on- off short times
you'll see that the pump shocks the bubbles out

done
So...just turning ignition key on (no engine start), the intercooler pump will run?
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 05:08 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 2007 SL600
So...just turning ignition key on (no engine start), the intercooler pump will run?
no
you will have to run the pump manually if you want by the relay socket
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 05:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 2007 SL600
I need to replace my intercooler pump with new Bosch pump and install the M279 mod on my 2007 SL600.


You provided link to 3 piece hose set to connect to the intercooler bleed valves.
Is the yellow hose (2 yellow are needed) the correct hose to use when vacuum bleed and refill of coolant?
As soon as the yellow hose is screwed onto the intercooler bleed valve, will air/fluid leak out unless shut off handle is in closed position on yellow hose?
Can you provide info on the correct fluid to use on low temp cooling circuit?

Thank you
Don
you build vacuum
then when at highest you open the circuit
I put two valves there as at on one point you'll have no more bubbles at the driver side but still on passenger
that way you can bleed that side only on the end
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