CL-Class (W215) 2000-2006: CL 500, CL 600

2004 CL 600 after one year

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Old 12-26-2016, 10:25 PM
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JHM
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2004 CL 600
2004 CL 600 after one year

Hi all, Its been a blissful year (and I'm knocking wood right now) Aside from
the soft close feature stopping working the car has been a dream. I've driven 5000 miles in the past year. When I got it it had 25k and the oil had been freshly changed with synthetic. I know the miles haven't worn out the oil but should I change it after a year? What about tranny fluid? etc. What should I do as far as regular maintenance? Next question. I'm intrigued with the ECH performance tuning options I see on the internet. Do they harm the engine? Which ones are good.

Thanks in advance for any input. John
Old 12-27-2016, 05:14 AM
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Lots of questions there. I think you should make yourself at home here!

First question is - are you a home mechanic, or do you use a dealer or indy?

Nick
Old 12-27-2016, 08:45 AM
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JHM
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Thanks for your reply Nick. I'm not a home mechanic. The engine compartment is so packed I'm surprised anyone can work on the top of the engine. I assume the cover comes off.
Old 12-27-2016, 12:33 PM
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OK. First thing's first - oil changes. 25k miles is very low, so you've got something precious there. Some people will use scientific reasoning to argue against it, but I would change the oil after a year. It's not just the miles, it's the total number of cold starts as well. That engine is worth looking after, and frequent oil changes are best way to do that.

Transmission fluid is more difficult. MB used to say it's sealed for life, which was silly, and they've since changed their mind. After 12 years and 25k miles there isn't a pressing need to change it. Some advise for, and some advise against, so I would listen to ALL advice.

Periodic maintenance? Obviously you need to change coolant and brake fluid every three years or so, but make sure you add ABC / suspension oil and filter to that. MB also missed out a few other things:

It is ESSENTIAL that you keep the upper and lower drains clear on the heater air inlet. Can't emphasize that enough.

ABC is regarded as maintenance free, but that is a disastrous approach. The lower plastic covers should be removed every year, and the suspension system inspected for wear, damage, leaks and seeps. These must to repaired / replaced.

I would personally recommend wrapping all the flexible hoses in the engine compartment with heat shield sleeve, similar to what's on the pipes by the bell-housing. It's great insurance.

Keep the battery charged up.

Drive it regularly.

Regards,

Nick
Old 12-27-2016, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JHM
Next question. I'm intrigued with the ECH performance tuning options I see on the internet. Do they harm the engine? Which ones are good.
I presume you mean ECU tuning / remapping? These are very effective on the V12TT, and the engine, turbos and transmission cope well.

However, they put extra load on the coil packs, which are the engine's weakspot, and many people have had them fail shortly after a tune. With just 25k miles, you might be OK though.

Nick
Old 12-28-2016, 12:07 PM
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Hi Welwynnick,

Thanks for your responses.

"It is ESSENTIAL that you keep the upper and lower drains clear on the heater air inlet. Can't emphasize that enough."

OK, you've got my attention on this, please tell me more.

John
Old 12-29-2016, 01:54 PM
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W215 CL500 2005
Originally Posted by JHM
Hi Welwynnick,

Thanks for your responses.

"It is ESSENTIAL that you keep the upper and lower drains clear on the heater air inlet. Can't emphasize that enough."

OK, you've got my attention on this, please tell me more.

John
Enjoy:

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...eed-valve.html
Old 12-30-2016, 08:35 AM
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I think by ech he means eurocharged tune
Old 01-16-2017, 02:02 PM
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Well, my Kleemann tune has been an absolute delight, 4000 miles later. I thought mine had low miles at 60k, but yours is ridiculously low. I wonder what the original owner's cost per mile driven was.

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