Indicators stopped working...
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Indicators stopped working...
...in both mirrors.
In January I rebuilt (as you do) the seat switch modules found in each door. It was a simple job which required all plugs to be pulled off to allow the switch block to be removed. All went well except that on reassembly the left side indicator no longer worked. I wasn't bothered because when I got the car the driver's side didn't work and I traced a broken wire, so I thought that would be it.
Then two weeks ago I managed to wreck the driver's side mirror and needed to replace the mechanism...though the casing was unharmed. It arrived, I fitted it and (yes, you've guessed it) the indicator doesn't work.
It couldn't be a broken wire the part was new not used. My multi meter confirmed, for both sides, that power was getting through. Could it really be each of the LED units?
In January I rebuilt (as you do) the seat switch modules found in each door. It was a simple job which required all plugs to be pulled off to allow the switch block to be removed. All went well except that on reassembly the left side indicator no longer worked. I wasn't bothered because when I got the car the driver's side didn't work and I traced a broken wire, so I thought that would be it.
Then two weeks ago I managed to wreck the driver's side mirror and needed to replace the mechanism...though the casing was unharmed. It arrived, I fitted it and (yes, you've guessed it) the indicator doesn't work.
It couldn't be a broken wire the part was new not used. My multi meter confirmed, for both sides, that power was getting through. Could it really be each of the LED units?
#2
Out Of Control!!
I can understand your confusion--the door control modules that you putezd with has nothing to do with the turn signal activation.
You have to have total LED failure for the lamps not to light, plus you would receive a bulb failure message.
As you have learned the turn signal activation circuit is simple--stalk--central gateway--front SAM--lamp on----I am also mystified by your comment that you have voltage at the lamp when you did not indicate how you accomplished that without moving the stalk into position.
You may need to consult with polka ***** at bens wurld!!
You have to have total LED failure for the lamps not to light, plus you would receive a bulb failure message.
As you have learned the turn signal activation circuit is simple--stalk--central gateway--front SAM--lamp on----I am also mystified by your comment that you have voltage at the lamp when you did not indicate how you accomplished that without moving the stalk into position.
You may need to consult with polka ***** at bens wurld!!
#3
Super Member
Thread Starter
The indicators and the motors etc from the door mirrors each plug into the seat control modules.
I measured the voltage with a multimeter at the connection block inside the mirrors...with the indicator and the warning switches on (alternatively, not at the same time). I have narrowed it down to both led modules having failed.
I'll report back once I've tried a new one.
Always grateful for your input my dwarf star friend.
I measured the voltage with a multimeter at the connection block inside the mirrors...with the indicator and the warning switches on (alternatively, not at the same time). I have narrowed it down to both led modules having failed.
I'll report back once I've tried a new one.
Always grateful for your input my dwarf star friend.
#4
The indicators and the motors etc from the door mirrors each plug into the seat control modules.
I measured the voltage with a multimeter at the connection block inside the mirrors...with the indicator and the warning switches on (alternatively, not at the same time). I have narrowed it down to both led modules having failed.
I'll report back once I've tried a new one.
Always grateful for your input my dwarf star friend.
I measured the voltage with a multimeter at the connection block inside the mirrors...with the indicator and the warning switches on (alternatively, not at the same time). I have narrowed it down to both led modules having failed.
I'll report back once I've tried a new one.
Always grateful for your input my dwarf star friend.
you can find them on ebay for nothing
The following users liked this post:
renault12ts (04-13-2017)
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
I can understand your confusion--the door control modules that you putezd with has nothing to do with the turn signal activation.
You have to have total LED failure for the lamps not to light, plus you would receive a bulb failure message.
As you have learned the turn signal activation circuit is simple--stalk--central gateway--front SAM--lamp on----I am also mystified by your comment that you have voltage at the lamp when you did not indicate how you accomplished that without moving the stalk into position.
You may need to consult with polka ***** at bens wurld!!
You have to have total LED failure for the lamps not to light, plus you would receive a bulb failure message.
As you have learned the turn signal activation circuit is simple--stalk--central gateway--front SAM--lamp on----I am also mystified by your comment that you have voltage at the lamp when you did not indicate how you accomplished that without moving the stalk into position.
You may need to consult with polka ***** at bens wurld!!
You have a wonderful way with words...but I don't think, in all the replies I have seen you make over the years, that you have ever actually helped anyone.
#6
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'01 CL500, '99 Chrysler Grand Voyager; LPG conversions on both
did you reach a conclusion? I have the same problem, intermittent failure of one or both door repeaters, with bulb failure messages. I've had the wiring redone on the driver side, for both the door as well as internally in the mirror (the door wiring was clearly broken), but the problem persists. There can be weeks when everything is fine, then, without warning, one or the other or both go on the blink (not!).
Thanks, best,
-- Per
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
Hi,
did you reach a conclusion? I have the same problem, intermittent failure of one or both door repeaters, with bulb failure messages. I've had the wiring redone on the driver side, for both the door as well as internally in the mirror (the door wiring was clearly broken), but the problem persists. There can be weeks when everything is fine, then, without warning, one or the other or both go on the blink (not!).
Thanks, best,
-- Per
did you reach a conclusion? I have the same problem, intermittent failure of one or both door repeaters, with bulb failure messages. I've had the wiring redone on the driver side, for both the door as well as internally in the mirror (the door wiring was clearly broken), but the problem persists. There can be weeks when everything is fine, then, without warning, one or the other or both go on the blink (not!).
Thanks, best,
-- Per
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#8
Super Member
Thread Starter
#9
listen, first of all, did you upgrade your front turn signal to led or is everything stock ?
then, if stock, did you turn on warning and test voltage out on plug to mirror led turn signal ?
if yes and you have voltage, the only problem you could have + - inverted as leds only work in one position
also, there is a very bad thing with the mercedes w215 light modules, wich is that sometimes, when a bulb stops working and the module turns the power off to that bulb to prevent damage, when you replace the bulb it will not turn back on just like that when replaced
if DAS XENTRY = clear all error codes
if not, unplug the battery for 10 min
I have been battling with led on my cl as upgraded lots of lights to led and it's a pain in the ***
let me know
#10
Super Member
Thread Starter
Everything is stock.
I got the left hand side working, but I don't know how. I tested the wiring continuity and that the leds worked with a 9v battery...put it all back together, wiggled a few wires and was going into the house in defeat...locked the car and it flashed.
Now for the other side. Interesting about the turning off to prevent damage.
I got the left hand side working, but I don't know how. I tested the wiring continuity and that the leds worked with a 9v battery...put it all back together, wiggled a few wires and was going into the house in defeat...locked the car and it flashed.
Now for the other side. Interesting about the turning off to prevent damage.
#11
Everything is stock.
I got the left hand side working, but I don't know how. I tested the wiring continuity and that the leds worked with a 9v battery...put it all back together, wiggled a few wires and was going into the house in defeat...locked the car and it flashed.
Now for the other side. Interesting about the turning off to prevent damage.
I got the left hand side working, but I don't know how. I tested the wiring continuity and that the leds worked with a 9v battery...put it all back together, wiggled a few wires and was going into the house in defeat...locked the car and it flashed.
Now for the other side. Interesting about the turning off to prevent damage.
Not that this has to do with your problem but I noticed by upgrading some lights with CAN Bus error free LED Bulb that most didn't work plug and play THIS IS A MOSTLY ON MB ONLY PROBLEM
I had to inverse + and - on the car right side to get it work (you do that by modifying the bulb socket so you turn it around to switch + to -) Remember, this is right side only, left can remain stock
The system that turns the bulb back on without erasing in Das Xentry is very sensitive on led lights
but once I noticed that, I hooked up Das and deleted the codes every time and work completed fast
Last edited by pmercury; 08-19-2017 at 02:27 PM.
#12
Super Member
Thread Starter
SOLVED.
Thanks for all your help especially re:polarity...you were correct.
I got the left side working by a bit of wiggling. But the right side was defeating me.
The right side had been replaced earlier this year when I decided to mangle the old one. It was not oem.
By use of my trusty multimeter I discovered that during manufacture at the end which plugs into the door control module someone was having a bad day and had put the two pins for the indicator in the wrong way round. So...I swapped them around and hey presto.
Thanks for all your help especially re:polarity...you were correct.
I got the left side working by a bit of wiggling. But the right side was defeating me.
The right side had been replaced earlier this year when I decided to mangle the old one. It was not oem.
By use of my trusty multimeter I discovered that during manufacture at the end which plugs into the door control module someone was having a bad day and had put the two pins for the indicator in the wrong way round. So...I swapped them around and hey presto.
#13
SOLVED.
Thanks for all your help especially re:polarity...you were correct.
I got the left side working by a bit of wiggling. But the right side was defeating me.
The right side had been replaced earlier this year when I decided to mangle the old one. It was not oem.
By use of my trusty multimeter I discovered that during manufacture at the end which plugs into the door control module someone was having a bad day and had put the two pins for the indicator in the wrong way round. So...I swapped them around and hey presto.
Thanks for all your help especially re:polarity...you were correct.
I got the left side working by a bit of wiggling. But the right side was defeating me.
The right side had been replaced earlier this year when I decided to mangle the old one. It was not oem.
By use of my trusty multimeter I discovered that during manufacture at the end which plugs into the door control module someone was having a bad day and had put the two pins for the indicator in the wrong way round. So...I swapped them around and hey presto.
The following users liked this post:
renault12ts (08-20-2017)