if possible what i would love to see are pictures of how each coil is tested with the multi meter for resistance. also your last picture showed a coil split open. is the spring mechanically attached to the coil, or is it just pushed down? reason i ask is i have a used coil pack that had a couple of springs missing. i was able to find springs locally that fit over the interior piece in the coil pack and seem to be securely attached. will this work, or is there some type of internal connection?
thanks

 

the measuring is next to be published, at least a easy way

about the spring, it is just pushed in, nothing else
problem is, it is wider in the middle, so difficult to grab the lower part
if you pull on the higher end it will come out but your spring will be dead
so I suggest bending a small old screwdriver and try or make a tool
I haven't done this, so if you succeed, post pictures

good luck

 

This is good stuff. I just started to get misfire codes, so I'm interested in rehabbing my old coilpacks as well.

 

new stuff added

 

So here we go

Both coils perfectly repaired !

This is my personal repair

With what I know now the No 1 reasons your coils F*ck up are:

1) your cylinder covers leaking oil into the spark holes
2) your Protective Cap BERU not isolating anymore (dry or full of oil)
3) 1 or 2 coils failing

I bought 2 used not functioning coil packs, left and right
DO NOT buy packs not functioning entirely
many of packs for sale have 1-3 failing only
the once I bought had one site 1 coil broken
1 coil 1-4 failing (this means most of the time only 4 coils broken on 12 !
they don't fail by pair

make sure the guy you buy them from writes what fails in ebay, just in case

I replaced the 2 smoked coils right side with one of the 8 good coils from the bought right side
I took the left bought 1 failing only coil pack and replaced the broken coil with one of my 6 failing left side

bingo ! 1 shot

so you see that even a retard like me can solder that

if you have replaced the failing coils and you would still have a problem, unsolder the mosfets for those cylinders and test them 'unfortunatly only way to test)



Do not waste your time with small economies REPLACE ALL YOUR Protective spark Caps !
replace ALL your spark plugs !

make sure your coilpack are well connected to ground !

clean interior of your coils with acetone or brake cleaner

use a very little silicone grease or special spark grease to lubricate the very end of your new Protective spark Caps


My final repair costs for both sides was 400 usd
sure you can get failing coil packs for less !


YOU WILL NEVER HIT THE LOTTERY IF YOU DON'T PLAY !
have fun !







NEARLY FORGOT:

Do not seal the coils again !
Use HIGH TEMP ducktape !
just a very little black gasket seal around the plug
that way you can reopen it anytime for repairs

 

hi, still looking for pictures on how to test the actual coil to see if it's good using a multimeter and continuity.

 

I was thinking smart*ss Geraldo would help a bit, he said "i'm working with bla bla bla everyday .... "
only negative posting no *****

Listen, I'm finishing my engine and I will take the other two coils to my electronic store, they will tell me how to measure the coils

 

 

The coils springs

spring must be perfect right ?

so here the tool you can make from a small screwdriver
just heat the end and bend it to shape

insert the tool as far as you can in the middle, turn the end outside and grab the latest part of the spring you can. don't worry, PULL. and click

clean your spring and push them back in with a big flat screwdriver until you hear the click






clean inside coils !

 

if you need to replace the whole coil and his base
also easy mosfet removal

heat gun, keep the whole coilpack stable just in case
don't worry about the other components, they are varnish sealed

heat quickly by getting close and pull
once unsolder ed
let the plastic cool of before manipulating so it keeps his shape

you can also cover up places you don't want to heat up with aluminum foil or use a little metal plate

after this, prepare the mainboard with regular soldering device, add soldering
then put the mosfet on the top, heatgun again and it will go back to its place by it's own

 

back side for testing purpose

 

Confirmed and tested

I have repaired the coilpacks 100%
0 faults in das under full load

so it's perfectly possible if you have some courage and time

If you buy used coil packs to repair yours, make sure they have only 1-2 coils not working so you have parts
work by elimination and forget about it if you don't have Xentry /DAS or can't count faults

good luck and don't hesitate to ask

 

I added some heat cover to the coilpack

also, on another bonus pack, just for fun, I had coil 11 failing
switched coils,
same problem
so I switched the whole end of the coilpack with another one
bingo !

 

Excellent work here well done.

I see misfires under smooth running counter at idle on STAR. Are you saying a repaired coil pack shows no increments of smooth running on STAR aftewards?

 

I had coil 2 and 4 failing on the left, and some 1-2 fails, that is normal

mostly small fails are next to a really bad failing coil

after repair, I have 0 now

 

I see! I have 1-2 small fails as you say, mostly on one bank. No misfires under hard load though, just these. Sometimes on cold start I can feel a few very light misfires but never puts check engine light on.

 

that is absoluteley normal
up to 4 misffires is more then normal (in DAS Xentry you can see that up to 9 misfires is nothing to worry about)
just means coilpack is not new

 

Ah yes I see!

On cold start number 10 on mine, increments very quickly, up to 19/20 but stops when warm. I can feel it in the car as well.

 

yea but needs repair, maybe check all mass cables first

 

I will check the cables and then replace the coil tube and mosfet on A/B number 10. Thanks.

 

might swap spark plugs too
so by elimination

 

Forgot to mention, all spark plugs and insulators are new (500 miles).

 

ok

so no spark swap

 

Is there any easy way to diagnose whether it's the coil pack , or voltage transformer , that's the problem ? Or is trial and error of trying and changing both parts the only way ?