Extra tip for engine mount replacement
las time lowered the sub frame and replaced the turbo surge valves I still had the stupid ABC
so that is a nightmare with all the lines to take care of
without ABC, lowering the sub frame is a piece of cake
now to remove the old engine mounts is a nightmare, I found a method to spend 2 hours instead of 4
I made a bended 13 key to fit better, and even grind the side of the key to make the border thinner to get the driver side engine side last bolt on
bend the metal top plate
so my big trick on the removal part
once you did the two front easy (lol) bolts, move the support from right to left by banging on its sides with a screwdriver and medium hammer. not top hard, just to get the last bolt a little loose
you'll see, the support will start moving a little from right to left
the, take a big screwdriver and bang it between the mount and bracket
vertical, you don't want to break the bracket
the last bolt support on the engine mùount will break of
then it's easy to remove the part on bolt from below, you don't even need a 13 key on the bolt
don't hesitate to sacrifice a key to make it fit
I added a picture so you see how low you can get the engine to get space
good luck
Last edited by pmercury; Apr 2, 2018 at 03:43 AM.
You have to make this key for the rear bolt
I put a normal key next to it so you see how much to grind of at least
and get someone with small fingers !
just disconnect from under the car, upper bolt only
then from inside the car push down and reconnect
then reconnect from under the car
car is really different with new engine supports
also, the front knocks are gone, I always thought it was something with suspension.... it was the engine knocking the support bracket !


