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If the ABC pump and new brakes were installed during May last year, why was the car then put in storage only one month later..
and then sold at a very low price 9 months later? Hopefully you won't have any bad surprises, parts prices for the CL are not very attractive..

 

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I'd convert the car to coils and scrap that ABC...I don't miss it at all.

Make sure you retrain your windows and sunroof since you put in the new battery. If you got a REALLY good deal then you may have something to work on from time to time

Once you get it started just mash that button above the radio to raise the car all the way up - push it twice. Once it's up and high you can press that button again to restore normal ride height. Good luck!

 

Thanks a lot Boxx, that's the kind of advices I was looking for! Thanks!

 

I do not agree with Boxx… If the ABC pump was replaced - and the system had no other problems, why replace it with a regular suspension system. I would keep changing the ABC filter and oil at regular intervals, instead of removing the system...

 

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key should not cost more then 300$

 

I absolutely agree that there's no reason to fix what's not broken- I'm sure you'll have plenty to replace that IS broken. That said, if you do need to replace the system, coils are certainly the way to go.
I would change all the fluids and filters. Something you know has been neglected over winter outdoors in those conditions, by a river no less, is reason enough to do that, and not knowing how that toy-collector prior owner treated his playthings means start as safely as you can.
As for the key- is there a reason you're going with the dealership prices? You can get your hands on a used fob pretty easily and then it just takes a well-equipped locksmith to program it to your vehicle. Just make sure you've get a fob with the correct FCC ID for your VIN. Tons of money saved.

 

A new ABC pump is only one component in a very complex and failure prone system with many other parts, most of which are working under pressures at 3000psi+. Even if there is a new pump that does not mean the 11+ lines, 2 valve bodies, 4 struts and a partridge in a pear tree are good. Once @was55amg has it running with a restored ride height he can assess his repair plan. I don't miss the ABC at all. It's worth it for the peace of mind alone!

But in any event, I won't derail the thread. We have our own opinions. I like the idea of going to a good locksmith for a new fob. The dealers are only looking to make as much profit as they can...they still think it's a 90 grand car...or at least have the attitude that it is and that money is free. We have a good locksmith here in town who does all of that. All they need is a title and driver license to make a new key if I recall correctly. Less money and for these cars as a project money is surely not free!

The battery is H8, 900CCA or Group 49. Those are about 150 bucks US...I just put one in my CL lolo
Change that oil right away!
Get a new air filter!
Check the ABC level if you are going to keep it
Coolant Coolant Coolant!
Check the brake fluid!

If you can get it on a lift you can go through it carefully underneath. And be happy it's at least not a CL600!

/Boxx

 

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the key is roughly $300 but we charge an hour for programming the key to the car

 

used keys can be re programmed? This is the first I’m hearing of this, I’ve heard people claim it can be done but I’ve never actually seen it

we typically submit vin number and proof and ownership to Mercedes Germany for them to send a key, and then it’s a fairly volatile process programming the key where if you don’t follow the proper steps you can render the key useless

so any w215/220 key can be re programmed for a different car?

 

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The trunk not opening may be the vacuum lines. If your doors don't lock as well, then it is the vacuum lines...mine has that problem

 

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have you had this diagnosed? More commonly the vacuum actuator in the trunk lid develops leaks, it’s a very common diy fix regarding some epoxy to get it back together

if the vacuum system altogether does not work, it’s usually a worn out vacuum pump. But yes this is often caused by leaking air bladders and leaking lines, causing the pump motor and valves in the pump to overheat

 

255’s on the front, with my ride height, would rub when entering steep driveways for example . See photo for reference of ride height

my favorite setup for a lowered CL on 20’s is 235/30/20 front and 275/30/20 rear

my rear fenders are rolled to prevent any sort of rubbing. Front fenders are made of a lightweight plastic composite material, no way to reasonably “roll” them without cutting and refabricating the fenders

 

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thank you

if you have a lot of potholes in your area I would recommend maybe 235/35/20 for front tires...

 

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Not sure, the wheels are giovanna kilis 20” if you could use that to find more info

 

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