Hi,

I was hoping not to have to post this thread, but unfortunately, I do.

To have this clear once and for all; which cylinder bank is refered to as we are talking about bank 1?
Most of the times, it's the one with the cylinder closest to the front bumper.
Also, which sensor represents which physical sensor? Is sensor 1 the upstream sensor and sensor 2 the downstream?

Lately I experienced a sudden loss of power, OBD-II indicated cylinders 10-12 to be misfiring.
The loss of power stayed and cylinders 6-9 where also starting to misfire. Because the misfiring came in cylinder pairs of 3,
I thought that it must be the lambda sensors. So I ordered some new ones, but I didn't replace them yet.

My STAR diagnosis tool is arriving tomorrow, so I'll be diving into that for sure. But I do not want to waste a free day, with waiting until it arrives.
The engine sounds poor and runs poorly, but when the revs go above 2k rpm, I can feel a sudden increase in power. Just if as too much gas is being put into the
cylinder, which creates an ideal mixture at around 2k rpm.

I did see mice drops on my air intake manifold, but I didn't see any chewed-up cables. MAF's seem to be working correctly. I followed all the ignition wiring to the fuse box and all of the isolation is still in tact. I'll inspect the ignition coil's connector in more detail tomorrow.

The first 40 seconds is just idle, waiting for the RPM's to settle after a cold start (settlement happens at around +20 sec).





Sensors:

• MAF
• O2 1 bank 1
• O2 1 bank 2
• O2 2 bank 1
• O2 2 bank 2
• O2 3 bank 1
• O2 3 bank 2
• O2 4 bank 1
• O2 4 bank 2

 

I've replaced the two upstream lambda sensors at the driver's side bank (LHD) and I've done some diagnostics with DAS.

 

So after a very intense debugging session yesterday, I cloned my DAS system onto a real laptop and found that it was now working as it should.

The problem most likely is a bad MAF sensor, the temperature sensor of the MAF reads 70M ohms, instead of the expected 3.6k. It will stay steady at around 73C to 74C, which is not possible with an cold engine.

I've ordered a new MAF sensor insert, I'll keep you guys updated.

 

The MAF sensor was replaced and it runs a little better.
The real culprit is the ignition coil. Those should measure 180V at both coils. They did not measure 180V on the driver's side coil

 

I've replaced the ignition coil with an coil from v12icpack.com.
Misfires on the whole engine!

I've resetted the ECU, because it thought it was a V6.

No more misfires, but it does feel a little rough now an then. I can imagine that the engine mounts must have taken a beating from all those unbalanced accelerations.