W215 Rear Subframe Lowering
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Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 296
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S550 V8, CL600 V12, SLK32 AMG
W215 Rear Subframe Lowering
Inspecting my ABC lines, I found that two of the rear lines are leaking every so slightly. Its not even dripping, but I ordered all the rear lines.
I want to lower the rear subframe and do all the lines.
So to not break anything. I am thinking
- Loosen and remove rear flex disk. Support driveshaft with straps
- Remove rear part of exhaust. Support front part with straps.
- Loosen and maybe remove brake hoses? Loosen brake lines? Not sure about this step
- Loosen emergency brake cable
- Loosen subframe bolts. Lower slowly with jacks.
Is that about right or am I missing anything ?
Ill take pics for the next person as I wont be the last one to do this job.
I want to lower the rear subframe and do all the lines.
So to not break anything. I am thinking
- Loosen and remove rear flex disk. Support driveshaft with straps
- Remove rear part of exhaust. Support front part with straps.
- Loosen and maybe remove brake hoses? Loosen brake lines? Not sure about this step
- Loosen emergency brake cable
- Loosen subframe bolts. Lower slowly with jacks.
Is that about right or am I missing anything ?
Ill take pics for the next person as I wont be the last one to do this job.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 980
Likes: 224
2005 S500 Designo
I did this job on both the w220 and the w215.
All of that sounds right. Good for you for doing all three hoses. The main one that needs doing is the high pressure hose that feeds the accumulator (you will want to test that the accumulator is good with a straw while you are in there).
I'd be lying if I said this weren't a miserable job. Are you on jacks or on a lift? It will be a lot less painful on a lift.
A "while you're in there" item might be the subframe bushings. There is a special tool. Get it if you plan on doing them.
One word of caution: Do not bend the metal lines pulling them out or putting them in. They will slot out elegantly with enough fussing and mussing.
You might want to order the rubber grommets holding the ABC hoses to the car to replace them. If they've come in contact with oil they will be sticky and nasty. Wear gloves.
When everything is back in place, ensure no hoses are coming in contact with the body or you will hear noises.
I believe I did not have to disconnect the e-brake, but I could be wrong. The mechanism is ingenious and calls into question all the new "solutions" put into cars, but it makes life a lot easier if you don't have to replace it at all.
It will be obvious the order to remove the hoses. Remove and install in that order.
You will have to remove the exhausts yes. New gaskets and copper nuts.
I believe you can remove the subframe entirely and let the suspension components hold it without damaging anything, but don't hold me to that and use your best judgement.
All of that sounds right. Good for you for doing all three hoses. The main one that needs doing is the high pressure hose that feeds the accumulator (you will want to test that the accumulator is good with a straw while you are in there).
I'd be lying if I said this weren't a miserable job. Are you on jacks or on a lift? It will be a lot less painful on a lift.
A "while you're in there" item might be the subframe bushings. There is a special tool. Get it if you plan on doing them.
One word of caution: Do not bend the metal lines pulling them out or putting them in. They will slot out elegantly with enough fussing and mussing.
You might want to order the rubber grommets holding the ABC hoses to the car to replace them. If they've come in contact with oil they will be sticky and nasty. Wear gloves.
When everything is back in place, ensure no hoses are coming in contact with the body or you will hear noises.
I believe I did not have to disconnect the e-brake, but I could be wrong. The mechanism is ingenious and calls into question all the new "solutions" put into cars, but it makes life a lot easier if you don't have to replace it at all.
It will be obvious the order to remove the hoses. Remove and install in that order.
You will have to remove the exhausts yes. New gaskets and copper nuts.
I believe you can remove the subframe entirely and let the suspension components hold it without damaging anything, but don't hold me to that and use your best judgement.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 296
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S550 V8, CL600 V12, SLK32 AMG
Thank you for the tips.
I just bought this car, and its a 4th car for me, so as long as I don't break anything on the car or me, I can take a month or two to finish this job. I have a quickjac lift.
Not as good as a full lift, but its high enough that I can easily move with a creeper. Not ideal, but I can work on the car little by little.
The car only has 40k miles on it, one owner, serviced at same MB dealership since new.
The previous owner spend about $70k on repairs on the car over the 20 years. Could be more, those are the work orders I have.
Sometimes they would go in more than once a year. You would think the dealership would see the leaking lines, but no.
He passed away last year, so it was his retirement car and I think he just wanted to keep it in as good condition as possible.
And $70k is a lot of money, but the dealership charged $600 for the trunk struts; $250 in labor - no kidding, $456 to clean the panels under the car, $1,000 for lower oil pan. Stuff like that.
For a DIY person, that $70k is probably closer to $7k - $10k over 20 years.
I can find the front position subframe bushing for the rear subframe. Not the back ones.
Hopefully can find the rear ones too. I will be replacing that accumulator. One of the lines leaking is the one to that accumulator.
I have done the other 3 accumulators already. No way I am doing all that and leaving the old one in there.
I just bought this car, and its a 4th car for me, so as long as I don't break anything on the car or me, I can take a month or two to finish this job. I have a quickjac lift.
Not as good as a full lift, but its high enough that I can easily move with a creeper. Not ideal, but I can work on the car little by little.
The car only has 40k miles on it, one owner, serviced at same MB dealership since new.
The previous owner spend about $70k on repairs on the car over the 20 years. Could be more, those are the work orders I have.
Sometimes they would go in more than once a year. You would think the dealership would see the leaking lines, but no.
He passed away last year, so it was his retirement car and I think he just wanted to keep it in as good condition as possible.
And $70k is a lot of money, but the dealership charged $600 for the trunk struts; $250 in labor - no kidding, $456 to clean the panels under the car, $1,000 for lower oil pan. Stuff like that.
For a DIY person, that $70k is probably closer to $7k - $10k over 20 years.
I can find the front position subframe bushing for the rear subframe. Not the back ones.
Hopefully can find the rear ones too. I will be replacing that accumulator. One of the lines leaking is the one to that accumulator.
I have done the other 3 accumulators already. No way I am doing all that and leaving the old one in there.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 980
Likes: 224
2005 S500 Designo
Thank you for the tips.
I just bought this car, and its a 4th car for me, so as long as I don't break anything on the car or me, I can take a month or two to finish this job. I have a quickjac lift.
Not as good as a full lift, but its high enough that I can easily move with a creeper. Not ideal, but I can work on the car little by little.
The car only has 40k miles on it, one owner, serviced at same MB dealership since new.
The previous owner spend about $70k on repairs on the car over the 20 years. Could be more, those are the work orders I have.
Sometimes they would go in more than once a year. You would think the dealership would see the leaking lines, but no.
He passed away last year, so it was his retirement car and I think he just wanted to keep it in as good condition as possible.
And $70k is a lot of money, but the dealership charged $600 for the trunk struts; $250 in labor - no kidding, $456 to clean the panels under the car, $1,000 for lower oil pan. Stuff like that.
For a DIY person, that $70k is probably closer to $7k - $10k over 20 years.
I can find the front position subframe bushing for the rear subframe. Not the back ones.
Hopefully can find the rear ones too. I will be replacing that accumulator. One of the lines leaking is the one to that accumulator.
I have done the other 3 accumulators already. No way I am doing all that and leaving the old one in there.
I just bought this car, and its a 4th car for me, so as long as I don't break anything on the car or me, I can take a month or two to finish this job. I have a quickjac lift.
Not as good as a full lift, but its high enough that I can easily move with a creeper. Not ideal, but I can work on the car little by little.
The car only has 40k miles on it, one owner, serviced at same MB dealership since new.
The previous owner spend about $70k on repairs on the car over the 20 years. Could be more, those are the work orders I have.
Sometimes they would go in more than once a year. You would think the dealership would see the leaking lines, but no.
He passed away last year, so it was his retirement car and I think he just wanted to keep it in as good condition as possible.
And $70k is a lot of money, but the dealership charged $600 for the trunk struts; $250 in labor - no kidding, $456 to clean the panels under the car, $1,000 for lower oil pan. Stuff like that.
For a DIY person, that $70k is probably closer to $7k - $10k over 20 years.
I can find the front position subframe bushing for the rear subframe. Not the back ones.
Hopefully can find the rear ones too. I will be replacing that accumulator. One of the lines leaking is the one to that accumulator.
I have done the other 3 accumulators already. No way I am doing all that and leaving the old one in there.
Yes, do the accumulator. I might be wrong about the exhaust gasket and copper nuts. That could be a BMW thing.
On the ABC system it's imperative all high pressure hoses get replaced/repaired preventively except the main supply hose; I haven't seen reports about those failing. It still might not be a bad idea. There are four, one from the first valve block to a T mounted on the 2nd hose (long steel hose that goes to the rear valve block), the hose you are replacing, and the hose that feeds the front valve block. These can be done at a hydraulic shop. If you have the V12, there's a 5th hose, an "accumulator hose" that comes off the pump and goes to nowhere. That needs replacing. I rebuilt it but would recommend getting a Mercedes genuine one. You can see info on that in my signature; it's the link *****ing about the banjo bolt from hell.
I don't think you have to support the front of the exhaust with straps.
The actual brake hoses you don't have to touch btw, just maybe the e-brake steel cable.
Idk, just get in there, work diligently. The hardest part is feeding the hoses out. Just keep removing parts off the car until they come out.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 296
Likes: 91
S550 V8, CL600 V12, SLK32 AMG
So far I have ordered the three rear hoses and the two that goes to the front. One of those going to the front is leaking.
I am curious how they will pack them up, seeing its 6 foot lines.
After the rear hoses and shocks will think about doing the front ones. People seem to like RMT for rebuild services.
The ABC pump was replaced in 2018, less than 4000 miles ago, so that should last a bit longer.
I think I will just leave the valve blocks for now. I might be wrong, but they don't seem to fail as dramatically as the hoses and accumulators.
I am curious how they will pack them up, seeing its 6 foot lines.
After the rear hoses and shocks will think about doing the front ones. People seem to like RMT for rebuild services.
The ABC pump was replaced in 2018, less than 4000 miles ago, so that should last a bit longer.
I think I will just leave the valve blocks for now. I might be wrong, but they don't seem to fail as dramatically as the hoses and accumulators.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 980
Likes: 224
2005 S500 Designo
So far I have ordered the three rear hoses and the two that goes to the front. One of those going to the front is leaking.
I am curious how they will pack them up, seeing its 6 foot lines.
After the rear hoses and shocks will think about doing the front ones. People seem to like RMT for rebuild services.
The ABC pump was replaced in 2018, less than 4000 miles ago, so that should last a bit longer.
I think I will just leave the valve blocks for now. I might be wrong, but they don't seem to fail as dramatically as the hoses and accumulators.
I am curious how they will pack them up, seeing its 6 foot lines.
After the rear hoses and shocks will think about doing the front ones. People seem to like RMT for rebuild services.
The ABC pump was replaced in 2018, less than 4000 miles ago, so that should last a bit longer.
I think I will just leave the valve blocks for now. I might be wrong, but they don't seem to fail as dramatically as the hoses and accumulators.
For shocks/struts I recommend genuine Mercedes ~$1200/pop.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 296
Likes: 91
S550 V8, CL600 V12, SLK32 AMG
Unfortunately Mercedes shocks aren't available anymore. So it seems to be either RMT or Ebay Chinese made ones.
I will probably take my chance on sending in my shocks and have them rebuilt by RMT. The Ebay ones might last a decade, or a day.
I will probably take my chance on sending in my shocks and have them rebuilt by RMT. The Ebay ones might last a decade, or a day.
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From: Fort Worth
2005 CL55 AMG || 2005 CL65 AMG || 1989 560SEC
From watching over the past 5-6 years, Mercedes will occasionally produce EITHER new or used struts sporadically. A friend replaced his RR strut with a reman arnott and it started leaking in under a week. As such, I'd personally go with a used ebay strut before a non-mb reman.
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Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 980
Likes: 224
2005 S500 Designo
From watching over the past 5-6 years, Mercedes will occasionally produce EITHER new or used struts sporadically. A friend replaced his RR strut with a reman arnott and it started leaking in under a week. As such, I'd personally go with a used ebay strut before a non-mb reman.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 980
Likes: 224
2005 S500 Designo
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 296
Likes: 91
S550 V8, CL600 V12, SLK32 AMG
Subframe is back on. What a job. In the end I bought a set from abcspecialist.nl
Company in the Netherlands that rebuilds these things and a lot of other ABC stuff. Not cheap, but shipping was quick, took about a week for the shocks to come. Everything was easy
Still have to install few things before I can start up and see how they work. But so far they look good.
Company in the Netherlands that rebuilds these things and a lot of other ABC stuff. Not cheap, but shipping was quick, took about a week for the shocks to come. Everything was easy
Still have to install few things before I can start up and see how they work. But so far they look good.
