CL55 AMG, CL65 AMG, CL63 AMG (C215, C216) 2000 - 2014 (Two Generations)

2003 CL55 door not sucking in

Old Oct 10, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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2003 CL55 door not sucking in

Yesterday I heard a pop when my door was closing. Now the door will not automatically suck in only on the driverside. I took off the door panel and took the picture attached.

Behind the black hose you can see a metal thing and a white cover. I think this assembly popped open, I can reach my hand in there and there is a little wiggle room.

Can anyone advise me on how to fix this problem.

Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails 2003 CL55 door not sucking in-medium.jpg  
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:06 PM
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After closer inspection the lower white part has broken plastic pieces that would lock in the upper black tabs. I would have to replace the white piece but I dont know the part number and there is a black connector with cables and a vacuum line attached and that is difficult to get off.

Does anyone know how I would go about getting the full technician manual on this car.

Thanks.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 12:21 AM
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This is a common issue with use and age. The replacement part is an entire door locking unit and runs ~$600+ from the dealer. Installation is a pain too as the window and regulator need to come out.

Many of us (myself included) have used zip ties and epoxy to repair the broken plastic vacuum/diaphragm you have taken a picture of.

I had to fix my vacuum trunk lock which had the same problem as well.

Your PSE pump will see that circuit open and go into fail mode thereby shutting down the pneumatic vacuum for that particular door. Once repaired you will need to pull the PSE pump fuse to reset the circuit that has been turned off.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 01:19 AM
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I have the same and need a replacement lock. But is there actually any problem with not doing this repair and just closing the door fully by hand?
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:00 AM
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there is no problem with just closing the door by hand. as mentioned above that particular air circuit has already been disabled by the air pump so no additional wear and tear is done to the pump.

epoxy is your best friend to repair the damage as the new parts are ridiculously expensive for what they are. the dedicated for plastics j&b weld two-part epoxy does wonders.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by awiner
This is a common issue with use and age. The replacement part is an entire door locking unit and runs ~$600+ from the dealer. Installation is a pain too as the window and regulator need to come out.

Many of us (myself included) have used zip ties and epoxy to repair the broken plastic vacuum/diaphragm you have taken a picture of.

I had to fix my vacuum trunk lock which had the same problem as well.

Your PSE pump will see that circuit open and go into fail mode thereby shutting down the pneumatic vacuum for that particular door. Once repaired you will need to pull the PSE pump fuse to reset the circuit that has been turned off.
Great tip!

Here's the stuff: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J-B_Weld

Is there a how-to on getting door panels off?
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JHouse
Great tip!

Here's the stuff: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J-B_Weld

Is there a how-to on getting door panels off?
Remove plastic U shaped piece around door catch. Once screw holds it on. Remove.

Remove aluminum cover on door end. Torx screws holding it on. Remove.

Pop SRS logo cover off and remove screw.

Pull to disengage tweeter triangle from door. Let hang loose.

Pop bottom of the door panel loose (all along the bottom). It is held on by several plastic molding pop holders.

Remove front A/C duct (Screw is hidden inside duct).

Once the A/C vent is off, you will see a black plastic slide piece above the seat controls. slide towards the rear of the door (spring activated) and the seat control module can be taken off by angling towards the inside of the car. Disconnect wiring and remove.

Reach into the hole that the seat control module once sat in and feel for a plastic handle. Pull the handle towards the inside of the door and the panel will release. Remove.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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Well while were on the subject of door sucking in, how about my trunk on my 03 CL55 not sucking in. When I open it with the key fob I hear what sound like air escaping and while that occurring the trunk will not lock. Once it stops I hear a click sound and then the trunk lock will catch. Any suggestion on a fix.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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I tried the JB Weld trick and when it was set and I had a brace it worked one time. Then I tested it again and the bottom popped off again. I think there is a switch or sensor that should tell the system the door is closed and to stop providing more pressure that is malfunctioning.

I guess Ill just pay the $800 to have it fixed.

Thanks for the ideas anyways.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 08:32 AM
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There are threads here recently on trunk issues. There are several different things that can go wrong. The doors are simpler.

See: https://mbworld.org/forums/cl-class-...500-trunk.html
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JHouse
Great tip!

Here's the stuff: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J-B_Weld
I tried the JB Weld on my first attempt to seal the diaphragm in the trunk latch....it lasted about a week and the weld did not hold.

Then I used some generic (glue type) 2 part epoxy and it is still holding strong.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by John CL500
I tried the JB Weld on my first attempt to seal the diaphragm in the trunk latch....it lasted about a week and the weld did not hold.

Then I used some generic (glue type) 2 part epoxy and it is still holding strong.
OK, epoxy it is.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Epoxy AND tie straps. Trust me
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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But Pull the fuse first, wow everything sucking in, oh didn't check the seat function. Thanks MBWorld Forum. It pays (you don't pay) to ask here first.
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