cl65 front cooler upgrade
i have done a few performance and services upgrades on my engine...
fuel injector cleaning and calibration
new spark plugs
upgraded tune for the new cooler
got my wheels powder coated
i hope this saturday i can get my car dynoed
i have a extra set of catless downpipes for 2005 cl65 bi turbo ( excepting best offers )
i have done a few performance and services upgrades on my engine...
fuel injector cleaning and calibration
new spark plugs
upgraded tune for the new cooler
got my wheels powder coated
i hope this saturday i can get my car dynoed
i have a extra set of catless downpipes for 2005 cl65 bi turbo ( excepting best offers )
Which brand (cooler)?
Did they take the bumper piece off or did you do it?
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i have done a few performance and services upgrades on my engine...
fuel injector cleaning and calibration
new spark plugs
upgraded tune for the new cooler
got my wheels powder coated
i hope this saturday i can get my car dynoed
i have a extra set of catless downpipes for 2005 cl65 bi turbo ( excepting best offers )
Do you have the dimensions of the cooler ?
How is the car running ? Hope well !!
John
your thinking about it the wrong way.. i do not need a tune becuase i installed a aftercooler... but since i installed a aftercooler i can run higher boost becuase of the more efficent cooling in the turbo system has now thanks to the aftercooler.. so the longer and colder the air is, the more boost/power i can have ( no heat soak )
thanks buddy the car runs great and i love the way the front cooler looks with the bumper installed, sorry i did not take any messurements but it does take over the whole opening in the bumper
I didn't see in the post concerning the original cooler, did you keep it in use and I would assume the best way to run the flow would be to hit the new cooler last before entering the two heat-exchangers. Thats at least my first impression. I bet it looks nice with the new aluminum behind the grill ! Turbo engines as a rule do make a lot of heat and heat soak being a part of the calculation this seems like it will be a system that would give ya more consistent air temps even while using the A/C.
I only ask because I'm running meth injection on my 65, and even with the compressor maps moved way to the left, the ECU is dealing with the colder IAT's and denser air (more boost) just fine.
What were your IAT's before the swap? How about after?
I only ask because I'm running meth injection on my 65, and even with the compressor maps moved way to the left, the ECU is dealing with the colder IAT's and denser air (more boost) just fine.
What were your IAT's before the swap? How about after?
I didn't see in the post concerning the original cooler, did you keep it in use and I would assume the best way to run the flow would be to hit the new cooler last before entering the two heat-exchangers. Thats at least my first impression. I bet it looks nice with the new aluminum behind the grill ! Turbo engines as a rule do make a lot of heat and heat soak being a part of the calculation this seems like it will be a system that would give ya more consistent air temps even while using the A/C.
oil cooler is in the stock location i did not remove it.. i only moved it 1/2 inch back to clear the new after cooler
Throwing out words like "heatsoak", "detonating", "retard timing", "knock sensor", etc, doesn't impress me.
Incidentally, our cars, while they do have knock sensors, they are not used as a primary anti-detonation device. The ion sensing system is the primary anti detonation system on these cars. Ion current sensing is much, much faster than a knock sensor.
You don't know what my Methanol setup is, you don't know what safeties the system has, nothing. You're just jumping to conclusions based on what you may think you know about methanol injection. But that's OK, you just showed (at least me) that you're kind of ignorant when it comes to stuff like methanol.
But I will school you on this mater, should you care to open your mind.
My system has 3 safeties:
a. Water Level
b. Flow Sensor
c. Boost waste gate dump signal
The water level... well, that should be self explanatory.
The flow sensor actually measures how much fluid is going through the system. If this falls below a set flowrate, the system shuts down and activates the waste gates, based on other parameters, such as current boost and injector duty cycle.
The "boost pressure switch" you speak of is the factory "switch" that you have as well. The system is plugged into the post throttle body MAP sensor - what you call a boost switch - (incidentally, we have TWO (as you call them) boost switches). The system is progressive, meaning that it will increase flow based on engine load and RPM. If anything else, I'm more protected, because if for some reason or other either of the factory sensor fails, the system will take notice and start dumping the wastegates.
And speaking of boost, did you know that my turbos are more efficient with this setup than are yours with your new heat exchanger? Why? Because I'm cooling the charge air at the turbo, not after the turbo. As such, it yields colder air temps BEFORE the air reaches the intercoolers on top of the engine - which of course, cool it down even more-. Another interesting result of this air being cooled at the turbo compressor wheel is that the whole turbo efficiency map moves to the left. This means the turbo can move more air through it for the same RPM as compared to no spray.
And when the system suddenly stops pumping for whatever reason, be it because it's running low on fluid, (which, with my tank, it doesn't happen quickly), be it because I suddenly back out of the accelerator... whatever, guess what happens? It sends a signal to the waste gate dump to start dumping excess pressure.
Again, I respect that you've got the mod bug. It's a good bug to have. If nothing else, I like you because you're a fellow gear head. But please, for the love of God, don't come onto a forum and act like you know everything about your car, let alone everything about 65 specific performance. Especially if you've just gotten it. For some of us, we've been tinkering with these engines (and cars) for a hell of a long time. And while we have a good idea of what works and what doesn't, I can't think of one person here who will tell you they know everything about 65 performance.
You never answered my question: What kind of IAT temperature drops did you see with the new "intercooler"? How much more boost are you seeing? Do you even have a way to log these parameters, or are you just assuming you're seeing better temperatures and boost? Being the smart kid I hope you are, you have heard of "pressure drop". How much more pressure drop does the new "intercooler" have over the factory one?
I can tell you that my system currently robs some 50 degrees out of the IAT as compared to no injection. This means I'm typically less than 10 degrees F over ambient temperature. Were I to add another 1mm injector at the throttle body, ambient and below ambient IAT temperatures are achievable. But as of right now, I can only achieve sub ambient temperatures when it's below 43 degrees.
Let me know when your intercooler achieves IAT's that are within 10 degrees of ambient temperatures. I am also seeing, on average, 5 PSI of boost increase. real boost, not hot air boost.
Either way, you're on the right track with your mods and you got my props for that. But get yourself a good data logger, a good baseline dyno run and read up on what works and what doesn't. Also, make sure your tuner(s) know these engines. There are a lot of people who can change a few numbers on an ignition/fuel delivery table... but few of them can actually TUNE an engine.
Throwing out words like "heatsoak", "detonating", "retard timing", "knock sensor", etc, doesn't impress me.
Incidentally, our cars, while they do have knock sensors, they are not used as a primary anti-detonation device. The ion sensing system is the primary anti detonation system on these cars. Ion current sensing is much, much faster than a knock sensor.
Well, that's kind of an ignorant thing to say. If will most likely hurt my engine... somehow? Seriously?
You don't know what my Methanol setup is, you don't know what safeties the system has, nothing. You're just jumping to conclusions based on what you may think you know about methanol injection. But that's OK, you just showed (at least me) that you're kind of ignorant when it comes to stuff like methanol.
But I will school you on this mater, should you care to open your mind.
My system has 3 safeties:
a. Water Level
b. Flow Sensor
c. Boost waste gate dump signal
The water level... well, that should be self explanatory.
The flow sensor actually measures how much fluid is going through the system. If this falls below a set flowrate, the system shuts down and activates the waste gates, based on other parameters, such as current boost and injector duty cycle.
The "boost pressure switch" you speak of is the factory "switch" that you have as well. The system is plugged into the post throttle body MAP sensor - what you call a boost switch - (incidentally, we have TWO (as you call them) boost switches). The system is progressive, meaning that it will increase flow based on engine load and RPM. If anything else, I'm more protected, because if for some reason or other either of the factory sensor fails, the system will take notice and start dumping the wastegates.
And speaking of boost, did you know that my turbos are more efficient with this setup than are yours with your new heat exchanger? Why? Because I'm cooling the charge air at the turbo, not after the turbo. As such, it yields colder air temps BEFORE the air reaches the intercoolers on top of the engine - which of course, cool it down even more-. Another interesting result of this air being cooled at the turbo compressor wheel is that the whole turbo efficiency map moves to the left. This means the turbo can move more air through it for the same RPM as compared to no spray.
And when the system suddenly stops pumping for whatever reason, be it because it's running low on fluid, (which, with my tank, it doesn't happen quickly), be it because I suddenly back out of the accelerator... whatever, guess what happens? It sends a signal to the waste gate dump to start dumping excess pressure.
Again, I respect that you've got the mod bug. It's a good bug to have. If nothing else, I like you because you're a fellow gear head. But please, for the love of God, don't come onto a forum and act like you know everything about your car, let alone everything about 65 specific performance. Especially if you've just gotten it. For some of us, we've been tinkering with these engines (and cars) for a hell of a long time. And while we have a good idea of what works and what doesn't, I can't think of one person here who will tell you they know everything about 65 performance.
You never answered my question: What kind of IAT temperature drops did you see with the new "intercooler"? How much more boost are you seeing? Do you even have a way to log these parameters, or are you just assuming you're seeing better temperatures and boost? Being the smart kid I hope you are, you have heard of "pressure drop". How much more pressure drop does the new "intercooler" have over the factory one?
I can tell you that my system currently robs some 50 degrees out of the IAT as compared to no injection. This means I'm typically less than 10 degrees F over ambient temperature. Were I to add another 1mm injector at the throttle body, ambient and below ambient IAT temperatures are achievable. But as of right now, I can only achieve sub ambient temperatures when it's below 43 degrees.
Let me know when your intercooler achieves IAT's that are within 10 degrees of ambient temperatures. I am also seeing, on average, 5 PSI of boost increase. real boost, not hot air boost.
Either way, you're on the right track with your mods and you got my props for that. But get yourself a good data logger, a good baseline dyno run and read up on what works and what doesn't. Also, make sure your tuner(s) know these engines. There are a lot of people who can change a few numbers on an ignition/fuel delivery table... but few of them can actually TUNE an engine.
wow seems like i offended you on this matter... i had water meth on my race car 3 years ago and have installed plenty in my life time.. if you are so knowlegable in this feild then you should allready know the reasons behind my cooler and i should not need to explain my self... now the fact that you think your system is safer then my system which is factory based idea is interesting to me.... in the end i dont care what kit you have what data logger you have or what you have on your car.. i just made a thread about my install ... i tryed telling you twice the reason why i have the tune but for some reason my answer isnt up to par with you and your expertice in the world of performance... the fact that you got upset becuase i spoke the truth about factory cooling system being safer then a water/meth suprised me how much that effected you, i would never sit on the computer and write that huge respond like you did..i have better things to do then to argue with you or write such a extence responce.. just respect my mods and be happy you dont have to question everything i do, if you need specific answers then call the tuning company or the companys who make these after coolers, not me...
also i have been in the world of racing and performance professionally for the last 8-9 years
andi deal with 200k to multi million dollar race cars, i wouldnt be in that possion professionally if i was some ignorit kid like you might think, just becuase i didnt put my doctor hat on and write my answer in exquisite details to suit your liking doesnt mean i dont know what im talking about.. when i responded i responded in general point of view when i spoke of knock sensors that was just being general i wasnt going to sit here and write a crazy long responce, i made it short and sweet
Last edited by freestylebiker3; Jul 12, 2012 at 12:15 PM.
So, what am I supposed to infer from those words, exactly, if not that you got a new tune FOR THE NEW COOLER? Hmmm?
andi deal with 200k to multi million dollar race cars,
Me: Hey, what are your before and after IAT's and PSI? You. Before, my IAT's were xyz over ambient, now they are xzy over ambient. Boost, before was xx, now its xx at xxxx RPM.
Last edited by Sathinas; Jul 12, 2012 at 04:28 PM.
oh and i apologize to my fellow MBWORLD for my horrible spelling maybe we can start a whole fight/debate over that also
Last edited by freestylebiker3; Jul 12, 2012 at 05:22 PM.
Who cares what you supposedly "had" when you were 22? Just because you supposedly had something, an expert in the field it does not make you. And for the record, no, I'm not an expert in auto performance. A race car with "600 bhp"... how amusing.
I would love to start a debate with you about your lack of spelling... though, I fear I would get a headache from trying to decipher some of the "words" you might come up with. Sort of like the typed version of Al Sharpton. The man has some interesting words that he has invented.
Last edited by freestylebiker3; Jul 13, 2012 at 01:55 AM.











