kamilclk430

I have done a lot of research but still have not got an answer to my question. When I go to the track and race the car I know I have to put it in dyno mode to do a burnout. Do I leave it in dyno mode going down the track or do I turn the dyno mode off and turn traction off only?

I'm running a 265/40/18 MT ET STREET tire. With SPEEDRIVEN ECU TCU/ REAR TANK/ SPEEDRIVEN IC PUMP and maybe a 100 octane tune just for the track.

alx

if you put the car in dyno mode you will need to modulate the brake when doing a burnout to achieve two-wheel burnout. otherwise with the open diff your car is equipped from the factory you will achieve a single wheel burnout.

it can be done, but it is hard on the rear brakes

kamilclk430

MODULATE MEANING????? I cannot do a burnout without dyno mode correct?

radride

Modulating means just that. Put your foot on the brake hard, floor the accelerator, start releasing your brake and your rear tires will start liquifing. I believe you have to be in dyno mode to do this.

R.K.

kamilclk430

that is what I need to do to hook up. do i launch the car in dyno mode and keep going down the travk or do i need to turn dyno mode off and hit the traction button before i make it dow the track?

radride

I would try it both ways and see which way is faster. Just remember, in dyno mode there is no ABS.

R.K.

RaceHorse

I doubt you are going to have the time to thumb thru steering wheel controls when you should be pulling up to the tree. You may have to do two burnouts and let up if you hear the rear howling. With the open rear its not uncommon for only one tire to spin, then after that one is hot it will stick and the other will spin, (reason for 2 burnouts). Ideally have someone watch and let you know so you don't get carried away with only one tire getting hot. After that don't worry if tract prep is good the M/Ts will stick for sure. Just passing on what was shared with me from the original V12tt boys. Also with the car in dyno mode it will be much easier to heat the tires. Remember the ABS is off so it will feel slightly different. Its not the end of the world, people did and still do race cars without ABS. Good luck and let us know how you do.

1995E320Cab

This is a post from FormulaZR


How To: Drag racing - geared towards a CL600

So, you want to drag race your car? Here’s some information that may help you. You can jump to a specific category using the #XX designators.

This first post is only safety info - mostly because of the character limit of the forums.

Index:
1) Safety #S
2) Before you go #BY
3) Once you get there #O
4) Burnout #BU
5) Staging #ST
6) The Tree #T
7) The Launch #L
8) The Run #R
9) Bad Things #BT
10) Dyno Mode #D
11) Transmission Protection #TP
12) More Info #M

Safety: #S
Here is a list of the NHRA requirements (not Mercedes specific). These may not apply to non-sanctioned tracks or private track rentals.
Some general rules:

-All cars must have a catch can for radiator overflow of at least 1 pint. These must be securely fastened (bolted or clamped). Factory overflow in most late-models is fine.

-Neutral safety switch (again, if using a factory shifter, this should be already installed).

-If battery is in the back/trunk (regardless of ET), a secured tray and cutoff switch is required. The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off (including alternator).

-If using Nitrous oxide, the bottle must be securely mounted (no plastic brackets), bottle must be stamped with 1800-lb DOT rating and identified as nitrous oxide. If bottle is located in driver's compartment, it must be equipped with a relief valve and vented outside the compartment. Commercially available thermostatically controlled bottle-type warmers are permitted, all other heating of bottles prohibited (i.e. blow torches).
-Shorts and/or tank tops are prohibited while driving vehicle. All drivers are required to wear full length pants, shoes and socks. Nylon or nylon-type clothing and open-toe shoes are prohibited. Tank tops/sleeveless shirts are prohibited; must wear a short-sleeve shirt at the minimum.

-Tires/Wheels/Studs and lugs/spacers:

Tires may be checked for condition, pressure, defects, etc. by a tech inspector before allowing runs. All street tires must have a minimum of 1/16 inch tread depth. Temporary spares, space saver spares or trailer tires are prohibited.

Thread engagement on the lug must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud or bolt. Length of the stud/bolt doesn't determine permissibility (example: a 7/16 inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16 inch).

Spacers are allowed and can be either hub centric or lug centric. Spacers can not reduce the minimum permitted thread engagement below the standards listed above. Stacking of wheel spacers is not allowed.


13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

All 13.99 and quicker rules plus the following:
- Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

All 11.99 and quicker rules plus the following:
- A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the fixed roof car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good down to 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). I have heard some tracks will let you by with the factory bar of the SL.

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones.

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:

All 11.49 rules plus the following:
-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in a fixed roof car with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails. If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.).

-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.

- Aftermarket axles with positive retention.

-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)

-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)

9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:

All 10.99 rules plus the following:
-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.).

-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon nets are good forever. Check with your local track or division).

-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required. For NHRA license form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/licenseapp.pdf, for NHRA physical form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/physical01.pdf

- Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years).

- Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)

- Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off.

- A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, but modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited.


Before you go: #BY
- Make sure your vehicle is not leaking any fluids.
- Read the above safety info. For most people, this is going to mean you need a helmet, long pants, close toed shoes, and a non-tank top/sleeveless shirt. I realize some of you will not meet the safety requirements – hopefully your track will have mercy on you.
- Inspect your tires. Remember you’ll be going 100+ in the ¼ mile.
- You can do what you want…but putting masking tape or the like on the bodywork behind the rear tires will help keep melted rubber off your car.

Once you get there: #O
- You will probably need to have your car tech’d. Proceed as directed by track employees. They will probably have you fill out an info card of some type and want to give your car a quick inspection. This is NOT the place to talk about how awesome your car is. Example: CL600’s have a rear mounted battery, this requires a battery cut-off; I don’t have one on my car and don’t intend to put one on. But, talking about it might give an official no choice but to tell me I can’t run. They may also ask how quick the car is; it’s best to sandbag here.
- If you’re new to the track; once your tech’d and have your number on the car just go park it. This will accomplish two things. One - it’ll give your car some time to cool off. Two – it will give you a chance to look things over. Take a look at the staging lanes to see where the street cars are supposed to be, and if you have a designated lane. Then watch the track officials to get a “feel” for what their “style” is. You can also see if one lane is better/stickier than the other. Once you have a feel for what’s going on and you feel like your car has cooled enough, proceed to the staging lanes.
- When you are getting close to the front of the staging lanes, go ahead and put your seatbelt and helmet (if required) on. You can either turn your radio off, or if you’re like me keep it tuned to the tracks broadcast frequency to hear your time – if you choose to leave it on, make SURE it’s low enough to still hear what’s going on around you. Also, turn ESP OFF or put the car in Dyno Mode (see “dyno mode” section for more on this).

Burnout: #BU
- If you have street tires, go around the water box. You can still do a quick spin if you want to clear the rocks/debris out of them. I will also say that street tires do vary a lot depending on manufacturer/type – so you may have more or less luck with a true burnout; use your best judgment here.
- If you have drag tires (radial or bias) then you can either do what you see the other cars doing, OR go around the water box and then back into it to keep your front tires dry. The official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward toward the staging beams. Do not do a burnout past the “start line”, as that is technically illegal for any car with front brakes.

Staging: #S

At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small household type bulbs. The first set is “pre-stage” and the second set is “stage. As you pull forward slowly, the “pre-stage” set illuminates. Let your opponent “pre-stage” before you pull forward to illuminate the “stage” set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down. See the “more info” section at the bottom for more on this.


The Tree: #T

After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence yellow-yellow-yellow-green, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified. Some drag strips may use a different light method, see the “more info” section at the bottom for more on this.


The Launch: #L

The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension ABC raised all the way, ABC NOT in SPORT mode, trans in SPORT mode. After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1000-1200 (this may vary for you). This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction. Once you have made it the first 100-ish feet, you can press the ABC button once to lower it fully and press the ABC Sport button – I have no proof, but this should help at the higher mph.


The Run: #R

Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until you are PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There may be several turn-offs at the end of the track, but don’t worry about making the first or second one. Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents. On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the timing booth. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.

Bad things: #BT
- You always hope it won’t happen, BUT if you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, pull over as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
- Watch out for the other guy, too. Pay attention if they are leaking fluids, as this could be dangerous for you. Also, if they look like they are coming out of their lane, it’s best to just back off rather than risk it. Use good judgment here.

Dyno Mode: #D
- Turn the key to position 1, then scroll to the screen that shows the odometer, press the reset button on the left side of the dash marked with an “R” 5 times (I think). This will bring up a new menu, scroll through till you see ESP Dynamometer test, highlight “on” and then start the car.
- Everyone may have different results, but my experience is that after a few full throttle runs, dyno mode makes the car mad and it runs like the wastegates are open…so you may want to turn dyno mode off every so often.

Transmission Protection: #TP
- If, especially after/during a burnout, the car acts like it’s in park or neutral even though it’s in drive you have probably hit the transmission’s torque limiter. Don’t panic, just put the car in park and restart it. Problem solved. Don’t forget to turn ESP back off or make sure you’re still in dyno mode.



More Info: #MI

IHRA/Accutime Tree - If tree is set up using the standard IHRA parameters as described in the IHRA rule book. For tracks using the system made by Accutime. It's computer based with several settings. In normal operation, the timing system runs on "Autostart". The minor settings for Test-n-Tune are Staged Minimum and Staged to Start. These don't affect you much - Staged Minimum is 6/10s of a second from the time the tire breaks the stage beam to trigger Autostart. The Staged to Start is a 9/10 second delay after both cars are staged before the timing system starts. The system has a built in random delay that could be from .2 seconds to about 3 seconds before the tree comes down.

The BIG number for most people is the Total Timeout which is set to 10 seconds. What this means is that once you have three bulbs lit - one car with pre-stage and stage bulbs on and the other in pre-stage - the last car in has 10 seconds to get staged or it will red light. This is automatic - once that third bulb is on for .6 seconds the computer takes over the timing system. The starter or the tower can't make it faster or slower.
There are three types of trees available in the system - bracket tree, .5 pro tree and .4 pro tree. The pro trees flash all 3 yellow at once then the green at either a .4 or .5 delay. The bracket (or Sportsman) tree brings each bulb down in .5 second increments. I have run some "instant green" events in the past where no yellows are lit, only the green. It's a fun diversion because you can't tell when the green is going to light and when it does, you are already late.

Deep staging - this is a technique that some cars may use (slow reaction cars) to cut a better light. The track timing system is not set to allow for deep staging and almost all tracks run the same way. Meaning - once you stage, if you roll out of the pre-stage beam you get red lighted. This is programmed into the system, so it just is. Hence "deep staging not allowed" by the system.

These parameters stay fixed because to change them when running various cars (street, race, Jrs, etc) would drive the tower nuts swapping classes. You want to make a pass, you don't really want people messing with the computer while you sit and wait.



Staging in General - You can whip the other lane if you get out first, so getting the better leave is what you want. Your front tire and your combo determine how your car leaves the beams. The beams are fixed at 7" apart and at a height that gives a 22" wheel 11 1/2" of rollout. Rollout is the distance between when the tire hits the beam until the tire leaves the beam. Since the tree comes down in .5 intervals, you want to try to start leaving on the 3rd yellow. That gives you and the car 1/2 second to hit the perfect .000 reaction time.

To figure out where you are, the best idea is to pre-stage, then bump in slow (remember: 10-9-8- it's counting you out) until you just light the stage bulb. Try to leave on the last yellow light. When you get your time slip, see what you did. The reaction is a combo of your reaction to the light and your car's reaction to the gas pedal. If your car reacts slow to the pedal; next time in, take a "bump" - take a quick brake pump to roll the car in a bit deeper (but not too deep!) and try again. Once you make some laps and get used to the tree, your human reaction time can be fairly steady on any given day. You can then try to adjust the car's reaction with bumps or whatnot to get better lights.

Side note - You will see some of the bracket cars messing with their front tires. Tires like the M/T Drag Fronts react quite a bit to air pressure changes. The pressure changes the rollout of the tire. This doesn't work for street tires as they are too stiff to react much.

Courtesy staging - this is basically lighting your pre-stage and waiting patiently for the other car to pre-stage. Cars may then stage at will. It’s not always enforced during TNT, but it's always good practice. If you are new to the track, it'll take you a few tries to start learning where the beams are and how quick you will hit them. No worries there.

Traction/hook - Most street cars are at a disadvantage on the track. Street tire compounds are typically hard to give long life. Cars are sprung for ride and corner handling and that can hurt drag strip performance. What usually happens is that the hard compound of the tire starts to strip the rubber from the track surface. That ***** up under the tire patch and it's a little like running on ball bearings. Drag tires - and drag radials - use a soft compound that actually leaves some on the track and works with the traction compound sprayed on the track to promote stick. It's why they have to scrape the track several times a year - to remove the excess rubber build up from the race tires. The faster cars will have to start shopping tires and tweaking suspensions for better hook. If you find your car spinning from all that factory horsepower, you might try rolling into the throttle. No, it isn’t easy to do that. But you could easily put a 1/2 second on the other lane that's over there smoking off the line.

kamilclk430

Def Will

Well I'm shooting for the non AMG V12TT ECU/TCU only record so hopefully I do good. I will be doing a lot of weight reduction and prep on the car before I make my way out to the track.

Huge Help,

Thanks Karl, how is everything on your end? Got a chance to mail that key? just in case I get locked out

Car is a beast and is on its way to speedriven for some cooling