CL55 AMG, CL65 AMG, CL63 AMG (C215, C216) 2000 - 2014 (Two Generations)

Brake fluid part number CL55

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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #1  
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Brake fluid part number CL55

Hi fellow memebers,

I plan to do the brake fluid flush on my 2005 CL55 (I've bought the motive power bleeder) but unsure of the brake fluid part number. Does anyone have an OEM brake fluid part number? Does any "aftermarket" fluid work as well as the OEM? Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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MB Brake Fluid is pat # 000-989-08-07-01 (Dot 4 Plus)

Any brake fluid meeting the same DOT specifications will work just fine.

Last edited by awiner; Nov 7, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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I am pushing my luck but would you know if this part number also work on a 1999 SL500? I would like to buy them at once. Thanks again in advance.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:19 PM
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It should be the same part # 000-989-08-07-01

On the CL with the eight piston brakes, follow this sequence order to flush:

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...g-sequence.pdf
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Thanks a million. But that now scares me. This would be my very first attempt DYI on brake fluid flush; hence the endless questions. I thought there was only one valve to bleed at each corner. With the pdf you have provided, am I understand it right that the front calibers each has TWO bleed valves?

BTW, I have found out that 000 989 08 07 11 is a 5L container (while yours was 1L). My colleage has said that once I open the brake fluid container, I should throw it away (or use it all). Is this a correct statement?

I figure two cars use about 3L with 2L to spare for the next job but if this is the case then 1L container is better solution.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SLCL
BTW, I have found out that 000 989 08 07 11 is a 5L container (while yours was 1L). My colleague has said that once I open the brake fluid container, I should throw it away (or use it all). Is this a correct statement?

I figure two cars use about 3L with 2L to spare for the next job but if this is the case then 1L container is better solution.
A generic average brake bleed uses 1L - 2L of fluid.

As to the brake fluid, my personal stock is stored in a sealed virgin one gallon garden sprayer, also used to reverse bleed brake systems.
As long as the tank is tightly (pressure) sealed, moisture can not enter.

Any chemical that has been opened, including brake fluid, ATF, power steering fluid, etc, has a maximum recommended shelf life of no longer than two to three years, depending on storage.

That said:
Your local weather/climate conditions and intended use weigh heavily in the shelf life equation.
The farm work truck may be OK with old shelf fluid, but I would never put the potentially sub standard contaminated fluid in a Rolls Royce Phantom.
Only a suicidal person would use anything other than fresh opened brake fluid in a track - race vehicle.

Here is an excellent brake fluid technical article, scroll past page one to reach it.

It is also included in this technical article.


Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right?

Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade

Power Bleeder or what?

Brake bleeder recommendation

roy@pelicanparts.com

Please do not confuse the following with DOT 5.1, they are radically different.

Note:
I personally have to much BAD experience with DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid.
Many friends, customers have put it in their garage queen, left the vehicle set for years. Suddenly decide to drive it and explode system components due to condensation that settled into the calipers flashing to steam.
IMO it is also a major pain to allow all air bubbles to rise from the fluid before using, and trying to explain to customers why shaking the bottle adds hours to the job.

roy@pelicanparts.com

.

Last edited by PelicanParts.com; Dec 10, 2012 at 02:12 PM. Reason: clear technical answer
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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The eight piston brakes do indeed have two bleed valves, a inner and outer. 6 bleed valves in all between front and rear.

The part # I gave you is indeed fora liter. The 5 liter part # ends with an 11 as you've stated above.

Brake fluid is highly hygroscopic (attracts moisture) therefore I tend to buy what I need only. If you have left over fluid, make sure to tightly secure the lid and store in a low humidity area.

Don't over loosen the bleed valves. Open them open just enough for fluid to start sucking out. Opening them too much will allow air to be sucked in via the bleed valve threads. Keep an eye on the fluid reservoir so it doesn't run dry.

Last edited by awiner; Nov 7, 2012 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
A generic average brake bleed uses 1L - 2L of fluid.

As to the brake fluid, my personal stock is in stored in a sealed virgin one gallon garden sprayer, also used to reverse bleed brake systems.
As long as the tank is tightly (pressure) sealed, moisture can not enter.

Any chemical that has been opened, including brake fluid, ATF, power steering fluid, etc, has a maximum recommended shelf life of no longer than two to three years, depending on storage.

That said:
Your local weather/climate conditions and intended use weigh heavily in the shelf life equation.
The farm work truck may be OK with old shelf fluid, but I would never put the potentially sub standard contaminated fluid in a Rolls Royce Phantom.
Only a suicidal person would use anything other than fresh opened brake fluid in a track - race vehicle.

Here is an excellent brake fluid technical article, scroll past page one to reach it.

It is also included in this technical article.


Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right?

Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade

Power Bleeder or what?

Brake bleeder recommendation

roy@pelicanparts.com

Please do not confuse the following with DOT 5.1, they are radically different.

Note:
I personally have to much BAD experience with DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid.
Many friends, customers have put it in their garage queen, left the vehicle set for years. Suddenly decide to drive it and explode system components due to condensation that settled into the calipers flashing to steam.
IMO it is also a major pain to allow all air bubbles to rise from the fluid before using, and trying to explain to customers why shaking the bottle adds hours to the job.

roy@pelicanparts.com

.
Thanks a lot! That's a lot of info to read. I am still going in thru it.
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:15 AM
  #9  
SLCL's Avatar
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Originally Posted by awiner
The eight piston brakes do indeed have two bleed valves, a inner and outer. 6 bleed valves in all between front and rear.

The part # I gave you is indeed fora liter. The 5 liter part # ends with an 11 as you've stated above.

Brake fluid is highly hygroscopic (attracts moisture) therefore I tend to buy what I need only. If you have left over fluid, make sure to tightly secure the lid and store in a low humidity area.

Don't over loosen the bleed valves. Open them open just enough for fluid to start sucking out. Opening them too much will allow air to be sucked in via the bleed valve threads. Keep an eye on the fluid reservoir so it doesn't run dry.
Thanks again. I will proceed as advice (although I might wait until next spring when it gets warmer)
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #10  
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2013 Audi S4 Stasis, 2013 Audi TTS, 1996 C3500 Dually, 1967 442, 2005 CL65-Sold, 2006 E320 CDI-Sold
I went to the local O'Riley Auto parts and got three liters of Pentosin DOT4+. It was all I needed for my CL65.

Fairly simple process. I used a Mighty-Vac to drain the master cylinder and it took about 3/4 of a Liter to get fresh fluid out of the first rear caliper. All in all I used about 2 1/2 litre to be sure it was all flushed out.
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 09:33 AM
  #11  
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One more question gents:

With the motive bleeder, do I flush brake fluid while the engine is running or off?

Thanks again and Happy Holidays
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