HOW TO: -10c Cooling system mod ($30) Best way to lower temps!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 171
2002 CL500 to CL55 conversion
does anyone have any more info on this matter? I'm considering following through with this type of mod but like ALX has said, I don't believe myself to be smarter than the mercedes/amg engineers... I do however believe my engine bay is quite warm. and I live in South Florida also... mostly why I'm considering this mod
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 980
Likes: 224
2005 S500 Designo
What about for M275 cars? The car gets stupid hot and I don't like it. The high temperatures cause all sorts of problems under the hood with plastics getting brittle, etc. I don't like it.
The M275 runs significantly hotter than the M113. I'm now debating going in and rectifying that in DAS; pros vs cons?
The M275 runs significantly hotter than the M113. I'm now debating going in and rectifying that in DAS; pros vs cons?
Member
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 247
Likes: 58
From: Fort Worth
2005 CL55 AMG || 2005 CL65 AMG || 1989 560SEC
The thermostats in the engine and oil cooling system lead me to believe this is largely snake oil, but maybe you'd get 5-10c cooler temps for what? I know for sure that my 30 year old chevrolet TBI engine won't engage EGR/change fuel mapping until it hits operating temp, so I imagine a car 10+ years newer would do something similarly undesirable.
On top of that, you'd be stressing the alternator more heavily and frequently. The alternator in the M275 is watercooled, which keeps the windings cool, but the diodes/recitfiers are known to burn out, necessitating a PITA (and expensive) replacement. If I were genuinely convinced 10 degrees C would make a large difference in longevity, I'd just drill a couple small holes in the thermostat plate and leave the fans alone... The AC being on would keep the fan sucking air through the rad, and bam, cooler coolant.
On top of that, you'd be stressing the alternator more heavily and frequently. The alternator in the M275 is watercooled, which keeps the windings cool, but the diodes/recitfiers are known to burn out, necessitating a PITA (and expensive) replacement. If I were genuinely convinced 10 degrees C would make a large difference in longevity, I'd just drill a couple small holes in the thermostat plate and leave the fans alone... The AC being on would keep the fan sucking air through the rad, and bam, cooler coolant.
