Took it to MB and they said that its was the spark plugs. They are charging me close to 1400$ with labor. Is that the problem? Do they know what they are doing? If so, can I take it somewhere cheaper?

seems a bit high but that does not surprise me .

I said the same thing when I was quoted 1500!

For a dealership no, I think that's close to what I'd manage. But I'm curious how much they are charging you per spark plug. Depending on where you get them you can get them from 10-25 per plug for factory recommended. I paid $12 a pop for the NGK Laser Iridium IFR6Q-G which what I've been told on the forums to use for this car.

Book hour for this job is either 2 1/2 or 3 but I forgot. Can you get this job for cheaper yes you can try an Indy MB shop, luckily all I paid was for the spark plugs cause my coils were bad and warranty covered the part and labor on that, so all I had to do was put the plugs in while the coils were out.

"I paid $12 a pop for the NGK Laser Iridium IFR6Q-G which what I've been told on the forums to use for this car".


Ouch..........found all 24 on ebay for less than $100. was quoted 6 hours labor time to complete the job by the stealer

I did them myself and saved myself a bundle.

Get down and dirty and save some money.

Waiting on the weather to break!

i can probably chance all 24 plugs in 2 to 2.5 hrs.

Any tips to pass on?

Only thing I'd be concerned with is make sure you don't have any hoses loose. I was reading one thread of someone doing a spark plug and coil pack job and when he put his car back on the dyno he lost HP. Apparently when he was doing the job one of the hoses came undone and was experiencing boost lost in his turbos

Thanks!!

Theirs a couple of well written tutorials in the m275 section covering spark plug changes and coil packs. You need to be gentile removing the coil packs, as others have noted expensive damage. MB has a tool for this, I pried gently at multiple points to remove mine,they were stuck as were the air boxes, (rubber adhesion). Theirs quite a lot of small detail, so give yourself plenty of time the first time. With cleaning the air boxes out and everything else I spent about a day .

Question for you, I had the right coil pack replaced a couple of weeks ago. Any chance that it's "tightened " up or would it be kinda' loose as far as removal?

Adhesion can happen fast, especially on very clean dry parts,time makes it worse. I usually put a small amount of release lube on such parts, I think I used Aerospace 303 on the air boxes and the box to turbo inlet O ring as it was very stuck. As I recall I also used it on the spark rubber boots,with caution making sure they were dried and clean after application. A303 is good for all the hoses and plastic hardware, a good item to have around.

Well this morning driving my car shut off, but not just at any speed, it seems to happen when I hit the brakes hard or come to a hard stop car just shuts off. It cranks right back up with no problems and goes its business but if I hit a hard stop shuts off. Not sure if its a CPS but will talk to my tech today and see what he says. If it's a CPS should be an easy fix.

Yeah sound like coil packs are starting to go bad, usually that will happen first before misfires start occurring

We should soon find out then...I replaced driver side and Central ignition. No code and no misifre and I drive her pretty hard...

Do you have a bunch of keys on your key ring? Take the other keys off the key ring and see if that makes a difference.