I'm tired of driving around in a 4x4, so I installed the inexpensive ($99 on Ebay) lowering links last night. I'm pretty happy with the new look.

 

Looks nice!!!!

 

Wow

 

now that is worth looking at! just need some 305 wide rubber in the back and you will achieve baller status! how does it feel ? any issues with launches from a dig?

 

Thanks. Personally I think this should be the low setting from the factory.




Thanks. It's getting there.




No launches just yet. I'll do some launches tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully the new links don't fall out and cause the car to drop to the ground. As for the tires - if I keep driving the way I do replacements will happen soon.

 

Looks good. I'm still on the fence about links or a lowering module. You are a baaad bad influence, LOL.

 

F**cking gorgeous.

 

Thanks and sorry for being a bad influence. Why go the module route when the links are an option? I think the lowering modules will set you back over $500.


Stop it.

 

looks aggressive. calipers look good with the lowering.

 

Best Appearance Mod.

Personal did mine too.. however, I'm still researching on how to alleviate the front tires from wearing extremely on the very inner edge..

I swapped my tires(PS2) direction on the rims to get more life out of em'..

 

Thanks. Now I just have to refrain from additional modding.


As the car is lowered, I believe the negative camber is increased (tires lean inwards at the top). To counter this, couldn't you have the alignment adjusted for the vehicle level you typically drive?

 

yes, after lowering it, I never drive in low mode most of the time, mostly in the middle setting (one Led). But hardly on the upper mode (Two LEDs Lit)..
I do set it to low mode (no LEDs) when I park.. Two LEDs upper mode for dips and bumps..

I think in general the inner tire wears in ANY mode.. thought there was a thread somewhere on discussing there is not much you can do on the CL W215 models.. there is only so much camber if any you can adjust for it, I may be wrong.. I'd love to find out though..

Or get cheaper tires.. Hankook V12's? Love the PS2's though.

Anyone who has lowered have a nice even wear on their front tires (inner section)?

 

So just curious if any of you know for sure, when the suspension is in the raised position, does the car still lower itself at speed or does it stay up? I've read conflicting answers and my wife can't tell driving next to me at 70+ and her Mazda CX-9 won't do over 120, (not that I'd want her looking at my suspension while driving next to me at those speeds anyway).

 

Sorry, but I can't help you with that. Based on the way the links work the automatic lowering should function as designed. However, I'll never know if it lowers itself, since I've not noticed without them.

 

Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM!

Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate one only position bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).

It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!

We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these offset one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to remove and reinstall each time).

Ongoing, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days. Extra Negative (plus track width) to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times. With the unique K-MAC patented design only requires use of a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative adjustable Camber arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing the essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.

Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.

Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.

 

It lowers again after 65 mph

 

Very sharp CL. Looks great.

 

you can go lower

 

Thank you sir.



Yes, it certainly can. Damn, you've got it dropped low. Looks great, but I don't think my driveway would like it even in the raised position.

 

I still need to lower mine int he front a little...

 

Grip grip, cars looks great! Can you post ebay link where you bought from? There's a couple of sellers on ebay and I know Adam had to modify his which he bought from an ebay seller to make work which I'd prefer not to if I didn't have to. Thank.

 

Below is a link to the ones I bought. I paid $99, but they've went up in price to $149. By the way, if the sensors on the rear wheels aren't kept in the right orientation, you can be fooled into thinking you need to shorten the rear bolts. If this happens, move the sensor arm 180 degrees.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Lowering-Links-for-2000-2006-Mercedes-Benz-W215-CL-Class-CL55-AMG-/281476534001?vxp=mtr

 

Cool. Thanks.

 

Yeah had to cut a little off it on the fronts because at the highest setting, this is how it sat...

 

That would be great if it was the lowest setting! Looks good, but that would be way too low for me to drive on the roads here in Alaska.