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Just finished rebuilding the front valve block and replacing the HPE hose with a custom built one from a hydraulics shop. No leaks, car goes up and down with the suspension button, no codes. Time will tell if my left front sag is gone. Lots of good info out there on these jobs, but if you have any questions about it just ask, always happy to help if I can.
Next project is to test fit my widened 18" rear wheels & paint the barrels (back side of wheels) black before mounting up the new drag radials. If I like the look of the black barrels I'll paint the other 4 wheels before mounting up new tires. Time to get the snow tires off! Roads are getting dry & not icy anymore.
Then I can move on to installing the killer chiller. Need to be ready for a dyno day on April 30. Then, racing season.
Weighed the car after I got it done today. I wanted to get an idea of race weight so I removed the stuff I do at the track which is engine covers, floor mats, trunk floor & battery cover carpet, tool kit, and spare tire. I had 3/4 tank of fuel (which is more than I run at the track), and my drag tires/wheels are a little lighter than my winter tires/wheels so this is not an exact weight. Keep in mind I have shed some weight with catless down pipes and muffler delete too, so my car is lighter than stock...... Anyway, here it is without me in the car.
I figure if the stuff was still in the trunk, and adding back the weight of the mufflers and cats she would be really close to the 4700# curb weight claimed for a W215 CL65. With a full tank of gas and washer tank I think it would push 4800. Anyway, with me in the car.......
This shows front to rear weight distribution, again with almost 100# removed from the trunk, so in normal driving it is close to 52/48 F/R.
As for o-rings, I had a big o-ring kit that only had a few sizes I needed. The others I got from an industrial hardware store. Just took in my old ones and matched them up with new ones from their bin. As for measuring....🙈 I'm sorry, I totally forgot. 🙈🙈.
I was going to just cut off the end hose with my tubing cutter and use a compression fitting and only replace that hose, I figured I'd measure that for you when I had it cut out last Saturday. But, as I was cutting it I noticed the hose between the banjo and 180* bent pipe looked a little damp. I kind of squeezed on the tubing covering that hose like milking a cow and sure enough, oil came out of it, so I knew that part was seeping too. To try and not get dripped on while doing the valve block, I stopped with the hose right then and did the valve block rebuild. By the time I pulled that & realized I didn't have all of the o-rings I needed I had to wait until Monday to get them. I rebuilt the block Monday night after work, but didn't get to install it until Wednesday night. Once that was installed I pulled the hose from the pump and Thursday morning dropped it at the hydraulic shop.
I am really sorry, I totally dropped the ball at measuring it like I told you I would. Exactly what measurement do you need? Since mine is now modified and installed I don't think I can get you any good info anymore. Again I'm really sorry since I told you I would measure it and I never did.
SL55, Opel GT, 70 LT-1, BMW 745 turbo, MRoadster, 49 Stude truck, 69 Z/28, Ferrari project
Matt:
Any follow up to this? Did it fix your left front sag. Sherri's car is starting to sag LF. We aren't driving it much since I bought her another roadster.
I know there are several sources for the rebuilding procedure. Can't seem to find a decent one with the search feature. Which one did you find most helpful?
There was a YouTube video I watched prior to doing it. I don't recall where I found the link.
Mine ended up failing after 5 months anyway. One of my electric solenoids died and I bit the bullet & bought a whole new one. I was tempted to buy used one on an e-bay and just swap the solenoid rather than hope the used one was good, but after having my car right front go to max height and lock there, I decided it was too important of a part. When the right fron stuck at max height, the left rear would drop as soon as I started to drive it and I learned that my rear tire does rub badly at full stuff. I have my car over 125 mph almost 100 times a year. This summer I took it up to 165 giving a Hellcat owner a serving of humble pie (obviously in Mexico, because that is illegal in Alaska). Rebuilding it for sagging is one thing, but my personal safety was worth the $1620 I paid for a new one because if it fails at over 125 and a rear tire blows, my guess is the car would not handle very well.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
