@Morgan,

Welcome.

We had issues with some of the quick releases so in those cases we disconnected from other areas. The caps are simple plumbing brass caps you can get from any DIY store. Home Depot, lowes etc nothing special.

Unfortunately, no luck with the white message. And, I have posted on the forums asking for member feedback from Strutmasters converted cars if the cancellation module cleans it up properly but no one has responded.

Let us know how you get on. How are your roads there?

 

Thank you for the quick reply,
I'm not looking forward to the quick release battle, if you had the same problems where did you disconnect the struts from?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-Inch-B...-/121482456297
Would this be something similar to what you already have? And as you're in the US is the fitting the same as a BSP (British Standard Pipe Thread)? Or am I barking up the wrong tree...

Roads can be terrible in the UK, but I can't compare to where you are in the US. I was going to try your dampening settings and see where it leaves the ride quality.

Another idea maybe could be to drain the ABC fluid and run the high pressure pump side dry, as there's a member on the UK forums who has done this method for four months now and he hasn't had any issues with his power steering side. But I am a little worried about what could potentially happen to pump.

 

Hello supermgm,

Welcome to MbWorld and kudos for joining the conversion bandwagon. Mine failed spectacularly a month ago and I'm glad I didn't have a massive engine fire! Cleanup is going to be a *****. I have also started a thread and will be uploading how-to videos as well and I believe we can help each other as the process goes. It appears straightforward for the most part.

In case you didn't know Yellow Speed makes two kinds of conversion kits for the CL series. One with a flat topped mount and the other with an oblique mount. How did you choose yours?

Regarding the hydraulic lines. You could buy these caps from ANY commercial hydraulic stores. The ABC system is very similar to the hydraulic systems used in Excavators and other heavy duty industrial equipment. It's quite an elegant design I must say.

Looking forward to seeing your conversion and welcome to the community

 

Hello Tasnik,

Thank you for the warm welcome, I will no doubt be interested in contributing with information for the conversion as I firmly believe these conversions give this highly reliable cars (in other ways) a new lease of life!

If i'm correct at thinking the CL only uses the "slanted" type of suspension struts due to the angle of the top mounts. I'm wondering whether Yellowspeed may of collaborated this part of the website with the W220 conversion page. As the W220 had both ABC and Airmatic, I believe the Airmatic would use the "flat" and the ABC using the "slanted". So I ran the gauntlet and ordered the "slanted".

It sounds like you had a horrible time in regards to your ABC giving up. Luckily mine just started to slowly go bad like the valve blocks and a few electronic sensors going. But I've decided to still go ahead with it for a purely reliability aspect; then hopefully sell the remaining components.

What do you think about running the pump dry Tasnik? As this would allow us to then remove all hydraulic lines from the pump and all the valves and accumulators. On one of the UK forums a guy has done this and hasn't reported any problems.

I will be looking forward to seeing more people also following suit and reporting on handling findings!

 

Hello Morgan,

Please, call me Taz. I felt the same way regarding the mounting types. In addition to that, the shock towers on the CLs appear to be somewhat slanted as well so I see that as a reasonable deduction. My supplier is going to ask yellow speed directly so I will have an answer but I have feeling he will echo what you said as well. Strutmasters, another conversion company, doesn't even offer the choice between the two so I'm sure there has to be a reason for it.

Yes, my ABC failure was quite the show. over 5 liters on hydraulic fluid in the ground, blasted fog lights and immediate loss of pressure. Luckily no engine fire as I would have be horribly underprepared for that sort of a failure. In my 10 years of car ownership I have never seen a leak as massive and messy as that. I am glad I had roadside assitance to tow the car back home. It's been sitting for a month since and I want to get it up and running before things get too bad here. I still love the car due to its iconic shape and the aluminium exterior makes winter driving less of a total loss but I am planning to drive this car until the wheels fall off so I think it'll be quite the experience.

Regarding running the pump dry, I think it's going to be okay. If you look at an exploded diagram for the pump you will notice that it has a common axle with prelubricated bearings and it does not use any of the hydraulic fluid for lubrication. I do worry a little bit about heat generation but I think the casing of the pump should be enough to dissipate the heat. I wouldn't spring several hundred for a used pump just yet. You could always buy it and it replace it later. If the pump is still good I wouldn't worry too much.

Feel free to open a thread to document your process as well or add to this or mine. The Yellow Speed coilovers are truly the way forward for these older cars that have a bulletproof powertrain but a subpar suspension system.

 

Thank you for the offer Taz!
I'm still awaiting for delivery but will keep you posted as soon as I receive them. I'm now a little worried that I have potentially bought the wrong "type" of coilover. But I did throw a few emails back and forth from a guy who did a Yellowspeed conversion on a W215 and he bought the "slanted" type; so I'm hoping this will be all fine.

I'm glad you didn't have any other dangerous issues with it, it really is a nightmare to maintain. Everyone says you must be religious with oil changes, but even with the expensive flushes the poor quality hydraulic lines, o-rings, and overinflated parts cost, it's ludicrous for vehicles that are definitely getting on in age.

I've just purchased some 3/8" female brass caps for the hydraulic lines, hoping they'll fit and worried they may not due to differing british standard sizes. If not I will simply drain the fluid and run the pump dry.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about choosing slanted over Flat topped as your deductions appear to be a knowledgeable one. What year is your Benz? Mine was a 2003.

Thank you for the kind words. Yes, I really was incredibly lucky to not have an engine fire but I did maintain my ABC as religiously as possible. Flushed the fluid, replaced the accumulators and did a rodeo to ensure there was NO air in my system. I maintained it better than most owners and I still blew a hydraulic line. I am excited to do this conversion as the finicky ABC was the only thing preventing this car from becoming a high mileage masterpiece.

I also don't do much in the way of spirited driving with my car I drive it more luxuriously rather than a tuned japanese import. It's the comfort and driving nirvana I get form this car that makes me an idea coilover convert. I don't think I'd go over 220km/h on a regular basis and track with this car as it's not meant for that in my eyes. This is the car you go out on a long drive with, lower the windows with your lover next to you while you listen to some blues on the amazing radio and just turn on the seat massager as you disappear into the sunset.

 

It's a 2000 model, and I think the guy who I spoke to on the UK forums had a 2003 or 2002, so I don't think many changes were made to the mounting structure of the suspension during the first few years.

I 100% agree that these cars and luxury cosseting cruisers that eat up mileage, so ABC was a nice addition when it worked, but a heavily frustrating headache when it doesn't. And the coilover set up doesn't seem to change things dramatically even with the missing anti-roll bars.

So as soon as I receive the delivery I will be posting and keeping you guys updated on my processes!

 

Hey all,

I just got to say im impressed about the write up wow!

Also, Im going to be doing this set-up on my W220 S55.
My question is who is the supplier you guying buying it from. i contacted yellow speed but no response. also I totally confused with flat or slanted top?
Any help?

 

@Aasim305,

I ordered directly from http://www.yellowspeedeurope.com/ once you place the order they would typically email you to ask fitment questions - or send them a picture of the shock tower. If they do, please ask them to identify if you have the slanted or flat shock tower brace. We are all curious as to why they ask because no-one seems to have the flat shock tower brace. Customer service is not their strong point so I suggest you go easy.

Are you sure there are no other options for the W220?

Keep us posted.

 

@Taz,

Please post a link to your write-up here also. BTW where are you located?

 

I spoke to them this morning. They have 3 options v6 v8 and Lwb in guessing I need the Lwb one since all USA models came Lwb. So the guy said that option is the right one for you.

 

All,

Is there anyone in the northeast region willing to meet up? I want to drive an ABC equipped CL to compare the before and after.

Please PM me.

 

Also did you run into any issues installing them since these coilovers are not meant for abc or air any modifications you had to do?

 

found the yellow speed u.s. distributor. patterson performance parts, llc.
10931 pellicano dr., el paso, tx 79934. contact donald patterson 915-228-9920.
he said price would be $999 shipped.
hope this helps and update us with feedback on any installation.

 

Hello to all:

For all you have done the conversion, Do you know the spring rate of you coilover set?
Mine have no ABC problem but is leaking in the rear dampers.
Will order yellow racing soon and they offer a few spring rate for me,
so would like to use your experience as my reference.

Thank You

 

that's very interesting. they only wanted a picture to see if i needed slanted, or straight tops. never mentioned spring rate. keep us posted.

 

They have asked for the top mount.
for the spring rate, I ask them first,
They suggest me F14/R10 For medium ride
and F20/R14 for hard Ride. (all in kg/mm)

I plan to install the sway bars in front ,
so I think I should take a harder rear to balance it.

Please feel free to discuss and give suggestion.

Thank You

 

confused about spring rates. Aarkaah seems to be the pioneer here but only said he wished his rear rates were higher. Oriental Mirage indicated that the Yellowspeed distributor suggested F14/R10 for a soft ride and F20/R14 for a firm ride. A look at the UK Yellowspeed dealer says their package is F22/R18.

Want to go this route but want the best starting point for ride/handling compromise. Any thoughts here.

 

alskompressor,

Sorry for not responding. Please review my write-up on the road conditions. Our cars are extremely heavy cars and my preference for a stiff suspension may not be your cup of tea. However, if you do utilize a less stiff set of springs it will be costly to try to move to a stiffer set. Consider also that springs may sag (mine haven't) and that I am on the top range of clicks to stiffness right now (Fronts at 30, Rears at 26 now). The only reason I do not go higher on the rears is that the road feedback becomes noticeable at 28 clicks from soft.

Look up as much information as you can regarding the spring rates and its impact to the ride quality and make your decision. I initially discussed with Yellow Speed in detail about the spring rates but that was after the installation.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the fast response. Based on your experience, perhaps you would go stiffer in the rears if you did it over again. Can you tell me what spring rates you purchased for reference?

 

I tell them I drive prefer a bit hard and They confirmed again that the spring F14/R10 is really enough for Road driving. The F20/R14 is really hard and near Track setting.

alskompressor "A look at the UK Yellowspeed dealer says their package is F22/R18. "
I think that number may be mistaken. I ask my friends for suggestion and referring to the figures from other cars. There are rare for car with spring rate higher then F12/R10 and those car weight around ~1400kg and the drivers are driving reallly hard on street. of course these cars have different suspension geometry. But I guest F14/R10 should be enough for our ~1800kg car and it's coherent with what I got from yellow speed.

I think of the harder rear as suggested by aarkaah. but as he mentioned that he set the damper on really hard side. and I am afraid the damper cannot provide enough damping for higher spring rate.

 

Hi,

Thanks for this very interesting thread

We own a 2004 CL 65 AMG since 8 years and absolutely love it
The car has 55 000 miles and so far (knock on wood) we didn't get any ABC problem.

But I have some questions :

- Is the car with Yellowspeed struts as comfortable as an original one with the ABC ?
- Did you need to replace the sway bars or you kept the original ones ?
- Did you need to replace the power steering pump ?
- Does the car feel lighter after the replacement ?
- Is there more body roll than before ?

The advantage of the ABC is that you get a crazy comfort level but also the complete lack of body roll

Thank you !
Cheers

 

There are no sway bars on the CL's. I have no personal experience with any suspension conversion but others have stated the car feels heavy and does in fact have body roll issues without the ABC. I'd advise keeping the ABC on your CL65. Keep the fluid clean and drive it regularly.

 

Thanks for your reply
I'm fine with the ABC at this moment.