So, the other day I noticed that my driver side low beam was out. Did my research and found out I needed a D2S bulb. Went on ebay and ordered a Sylvania / Osram D2S as recommend by ebay (vehicle fit guide). Decided that I don't like OEM yellowish color of the projection since they clash with my led fogs and bought a pair of 8000K bulbs so I can replace both sides with a blue/white trajectory. Alls well.

Package comes in and I go to the (2008 CL63) in order to do the replacement. Lift up the hood and looked for 30 seconds to realize that this job is way out of my pay grade. I couldn't begin to even try to figure out how to get in that tight space behind the headlight but no worries. There are several European repair shops that I would gladly pay to do the job. Took my car to two different repair places that informed me that they had to remove the headlight in order to replace the bulb. And in order to remove the headlight, they would need to remove my front fender to the tune of 3 hours @ 110 per. Jesus....for a headlight? Thought Id try my buddy at the bodyshop who looked at it and confirmed that they were not kidding. Depressed, I drove home to regroup. Had a brain flash and thought I couldn't be the only one and went to You Tube to see if there was an instructional vid. Viola....There was a poster that explained that you can replace the driver bulb if you take the time to remove the windshield washer reservoir tank and well as the unit behind. I forgot the name of the device some controller. I forwarded the vid to my mechanic friend who offered to do it tonight in his garage so I drove over. while he watched the tutorial. Got there and he got to wrenching and got the bulb out after about an hour. Lo and behold, the bulb had a square silver ballast that was attached to the rear of the bulb that the bulb I ordered didn't have. We assumed that the the bulb was to fit into my existing ballast. One problem...Over the course of the 10 years my car has been on earth the ballast got so hot that the bulb housing fused into the ballast from heat. Ot wasn't buying. We tried everything, then finally after removing the wheel of the metal ballast I saw something interesting. That the bulb was actually a D1S and not a D2S. It was stamped right on the bulb!. While we had the car apart, I quickly called my local Auto Zone and found the right bulb in stock @ a whopping $99 for one bulb as opposed to $55 for the pair on line. I said F it and decided to bite it and get the bulb. We installed the bulb a few minutes ago and guess what....nada.

We then thought the issue could be the fuse. We spent an hour trying to figure out where the Left headlight fuse is on a 2008 CL63 on line because I don't have a manual. No luck. Then it dawned on me that my driving lights in the light housing are on so it was unlikely that the issue is a fuse if the fuse protects the entire light unit as indicated in the name (Left Light Unit).

OK guys, Ive got 8 hours into this project and im near suicidal. Id love the drive my CL on NYE and paint the town without being a target for the multiple sobriety checkpoints that will be everywhere. Does this sound like a Headlight ignition box issue to you guys? What would you do if you were me at this point to get to the bottom of this? Help me please!

 

 

The highs as well as the driving lights in the headlight all work. I'm trying to contemplate the fact that the fuse I need to check for the drivers lo-beam is located under the cars computer. SMH.

 

Could be a bad ignitor or fuse as you said. Is the ignitor receiving power? If not, it's probably the fuse. Given the issues you have from the heat, it is hopefully a fuse. If not, you have some crossed/shorted wires.