My w215 CL55 ABC Delete Thread - Yellow Speed Racing Coilover Conversion and Review
Thread Starter
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First 600 miles Update.
After a few adjustments, the car has settled down nicely and my confidence in the Yellow Speed suspension continues to grow. Unfortunately, I do not drive my car that much so the mileage updates will be slow. However, I will say one thing... I am no longer worried about the ABC.
Pointers for anyone attempting this...
1. If you set your car height too high - you will encounter bounciness.
2. If you set your car height too low - you will scrape.
3. Do not pre-load the springs.
The items above are subject to your wheel set-up. I am on 20" wheel setup.
4. My comfort height (just staying clear of rubbing in the wheel arches while tackling the jacked up roads in PA) is 27 inches in the rear and 26.75 inches in the front. You may need to go back for adjustments as the springs settle in your first 500 miles.
5. Do get a full alignment after a break-in period and before you judge or make any hasty decisions or changes. Negative camber will be your enemy on the fronts. Get this fixed.
6. My damper settings are now 32Fronts/27 Rears (from full soft).
7. For my wheel set-up do not set the rear dampers above 27 from full soft. If you do so the ride will become unpleasantly harsh.
8. If you are not a fan of a stiff ride I would say set your car to 28 Front / 25 Rear.
Sale Time: Anyone want a set of used Shocks from my CL55 AMG? Please PM me... we can work out the details on price there - they will be cheap with full disclosure...
Our cars are heavy and the fronts should be set higher than the rears.
BTW.. I also picked up a 2006 W211 E55 (18 inch standard wheels) a month ago and I also drove around with my neighbors 2005 W211 E55 (20 inch wheels). All the cars had a less than desirable drive due to the road conditions. Airmatic doesn't impress me either! The roads in my area are just plain crap!
After a few adjustments, the car has settled down nicely and my confidence in the Yellow Speed suspension continues to grow. Unfortunately, I do not drive my car that much so the mileage updates will be slow. However, I will say one thing... I am no longer worried about the ABC.
Pointers for anyone attempting this...
1. If you set your car height too high - you will encounter bounciness.
2. If you set your car height too low - you will scrape.
3. Do not pre-load the springs.
The items above are subject to your wheel set-up. I am on 20" wheel setup.
4. My comfort height (just staying clear of rubbing in the wheel arches while tackling the jacked up roads in PA) is 27 inches in the rear and 26.75 inches in the front. You may need to go back for adjustments as the springs settle in your first 500 miles.
5. Do get a full alignment after a break-in period and before you judge or make any hasty decisions or changes. Negative camber will be your enemy on the fronts. Get this fixed.
6. My damper settings are now 32Fronts/27 Rears (from full soft).
7. For my wheel set-up do not set the rear dampers above 27 from full soft. If you do so the ride will become unpleasantly harsh.
8. If you are not a fan of a stiff ride I would say set your car to 28 Front / 25 Rear.
Sale Time: Anyone want a set of used Shocks from my CL55 AMG? Please PM me... we can work out the details on price there - they will be cheap with full disclosure...
Our cars are heavy and the fronts should be set higher than the rears.
BTW.. I also picked up a 2006 W211 E55 (18 inch standard wheels) a month ago and I also drove around with my neighbors 2005 W211 E55 (20 inch wheels). All the cars had a less than desirable drive due to the road conditions. Airmatic doesn't impress me either! The roads in my area are just plain crap!
Last edited by RA71025; Jun 10, 2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Mercedes CL500
Well I just had my catastrophic ABC Failure today. I am planning on shelling out for the Yellow Speed coilovers as well. How long is the delivery time on that?
Also, have you had any luck in selling the old ABC components OP?
Also, have you had any luck in selling the old ABC components OP?
Thread Starter
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1 week if in stock. And I think it was 21 business days if not in stock. May be longer.
No luck in selling. Has some curiousity but no purchase. Arnott only offered like $50 per core. Crazy.
Last edited by RA71025; Jun 21, 2016 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Incorrect statement
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Member
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: North Texas
2005 CL55
What kind of "catastrophic failure" did you have? Pump or something else?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
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Mercedes CL500
I think a blew a high pressure line that connects to the valve block as I had a rapid loss of fluid and the red ABC warning came on. THe car emptied its entire reservoir of Pentosin on the ground and I stopped the car as the fluid was still leaking out so I am sure the pump hasn't run dry.
Do you think it's worth saving it at this point as the car is over 10 years old?
OP That's criminal of Arnott. Only 50 per core or for the whole set? You'll probably have better luck with the valve blocks and the pump though. The struts aren't that prone to failure as the other components.
Thread Starter
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I think a blew a high pressure line that connects to the valve block as I had a rapid loss of fluid and the red ABC warning came on. THe car emptied its entire reservoir of Pentosin on the ground and I stopped the car as the fluid was still leaking out so I am sure the pump hasn't run dry.
Do you think it's worth saving it at this point as the car is over 10 years old?
OP That's criminal of Arnott. Only 50 per core or for the whole set? You'll probably have better luck with the valve blocks and the pump though. The struts aren't that prone to failure as the other components.
Do you think it's worth saving it at this point as the car is over 10 years old?
OP That's criminal of Arnott. Only 50 per core or for the whole set? You'll probably have better luck with the valve blocks and the pump though. The struts aren't that prone to failure as the other components.
Yep $50 per core. I'll bet you a tear down rebuild costs less than $50 too.
Last edited by RA71025; Jun 22, 2016 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Update
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,345
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From: Irvine
04 CL55, 05 E500S4, 15 BMW i3 REx
@OCKlasse,
Truly honored. Saw a lot of work from you. Does it need a w220 rear subframe? I was under the impression the rear sub-frame from the car just needed to be dropped for the w220 rear sway to be fitted and then reattached? This would be good to know.
Wouldn't fabricating an external sway bar be cheaper then?
On the fronts, the shop took a look and confirmed that the ABC lines there will need to go. The dealer disabled my abc anyway yesterday so i could go snipping!
Truly honored. Saw a lot of work from you. Does it need a w220 rear subframe? I was under the impression the rear sub-frame from the car just needed to be dropped for the w220 rear sway to be fitted and then reattached? This would be good to know.
Wouldn't fabricating an external sway bar be cheaper then?
On the fronts, the shop took a look and confirmed that the ABC lines there will need to go. The dealer disabled my abc anyway yesterday so i could go snipping!
Unfortunately, my research shows that a W220 (non-ABC) has a different subframe to the W215/W220 ABC cars. These subframes have sway bar mounts directly on them. I researched part numbers and then went on eBay looking at the differences between the two in detail. You can see that the W220 rear subframe has mounts that the W215 does not.
Last edited by OCKlasse; Jun 23, 2016 at 12:45 AM.
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Mercedes CL500
I am taking the plunge to completely remove the ABC system in the coming weeks. Costs be Damned. The 2003 Model year was the best with the 722.6 Transmission and the Wonderful M113 engine. It's the ABC system which make this vehicle less reliable in the long term. Although I will never deny the benefits of ABC, it's just too advanced for normal people like myself to correctly troubleshoot and maintain effectively.
How did you guys deal with the red ABC warning?
How did you guys deal with the red ABC warning?
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 196
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I am taking the plunge to completely remove the ABC system in the coming weeks. Costs be Damned. The 2003 Model year was the best with the 722.6 Transmission and the Wonderful M113 engine. It's the ABC system which make this vehicle less reliable in the long term. Although I will never deny the benefits of ABC, it's just too advanced for normal people like myself to correctly troubleshoot and maintain effectively.
How did you guys deal with the red ABC warning?
How did you guys deal with the red ABC warning?
What coilover system are you using? I remain somewhat happy with yellow speed but think the rear springs could be stiffer.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Sorry to just be responding now! I had a baby shortly after writing to you.
Unfortunately, my research shows that a W220 (non-ABC) has a different subframe to the W215/W220 ABC cars. These subframes have sway bar mounts directly on them. I researched part numbers and then went on eBay looking at the differences between the two in detail. You can see that the W220 rear subframe has mounts that the W215 does not.
Unfortunately, my research shows that a W220 (non-ABC) has a different subframe to the W215/W220 ABC cars. These subframes have sway bar mounts directly on them. I researched part numbers and then went on eBay looking at the differences between the two in detail. You can see that the W220 rear subframe has mounts that the W215 does not.
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 23
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Mercedes CL500
That being said, this is my first major modification on any car so I'm open to suggestions. You mentioned the need for a stiffer rear spring. Is there anything in particular I should be accomodating for? How are shocks settling in?
I have read somewhere that pulling the ABC fuses prevents the car from starting. Have you removed yours and had no issues?
Thank you in advance to you and the community
Thread Starter
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I'm going to go ahead with the Yellow Speed ones due to the fact that they have a dealer in Montreal and are 1400 CAD shipped as opposed to the Strutmasters ones which would be 2100 CAD shipped from the US including import taxes and all that jazz. Add in the adjustable nature of the shocks I feel like it's the more feature filled version when it comes to coilovers.
That being said, this is my first major modification on any car so I'm open to suggestions. You mentioned the need for a stiffer rear spring. Is there anything in particular I should be accomodating for? How are shocks settling in?
I have read somewhere that pulling the ABC fuses prevents the car from starting. Have you removed yours and had no issues?
Thank you in advance to you and the community
That being said, this is my first major modification on any car so I'm open to suggestions. You mentioned the need for a stiffer rear spring. Is there anything in particular I should be accomodating for? How are shocks settling in?
I have read somewhere that pulling the ABC fuses prevents the car from starting. Have you removed yours and had no issues?
Thank you in advance to you and the community
If your system is fine then just hold off for now. If you have to swap out then yellow speeds are good. My reservations come from my road experience here - the roads in my area are mess. I think I am a tad bit bouncy in the rear and would like stiffer rear springs in the rear. I am running at 32/28 on my dampers so I am close to max setting meaning I either like a very hard setting or the application is being pushed to its limits. The shocks are settled And on straight roads, corners and bumps the yellow speeds are planted and feel great. On severely uneven roads it may get a bit wavy but still manageable. As a side note the ABC didn't feel planted on my roads either.
Pulling the correct fuses shouldn't cause any issues. I remember a prior post were a poster pulled the fuses but had a wiring issue leading to starting and cig lighter problems. But this was not fuse related.
My dealer disabled my abc. I also pulled fuses to see. No issue car still started.
Let us know how you get on. And good luck.
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 23
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Mercedes CL500
@Tasnik,
If your system is fine then just hold off for now. If you have to swap out then yellow speeds are good. My reservations come from my road experience here - the roads in my area are mess. I think I am a tad bit bouncy in the rear and would like stiffer rear springs in the rear. I am running at 32/28 on my dampers so I am close to max setting meaning I either like a very hard setting or the application is being pushed to its limits. The shocks are settled And on straight roads, corners and bumps the yellow speeds are planted and feel great. On severely uneven roads it may get a bit wavy but still manageable. As a side note the ABC didn't feel planted on my roads either.
Pulling the correct fuses shouldn't cause any issues. I remember a prior post were a poster pulled the fuses but had a wiring issue leading to starting and cig lighter problems. But this was not fuse related.
My dealer disabled my abc. I also pulled fuses to see. No issue car still started.
Let us know how you get on. And good luck.
If your system is fine then just hold off for now. If you have to swap out then yellow speeds are good. My reservations come from my road experience here - the roads in my area are mess. I think I am a tad bit bouncy in the rear and would like stiffer rear springs in the rear. I am running at 32/28 on my dampers so I am close to max setting meaning I either like a very hard setting or the application is being pushed to its limits. The shocks are settled And on straight roads, corners and bumps the yellow speeds are planted and feel great. On severely uneven roads it may get a bit wavy but still manageable. As a side note the ABC didn't feel planted on my roads either.
Pulling the correct fuses shouldn't cause any issues. I remember a prior post were a poster pulled the fuses but had a wiring issue leading to starting and cig lighter problems. But this was not fuse related.
My dealer disabled my abc. I also pulled fuses to see. No issue car still started.
Let us know how you get on. And good luck.
@aaraakah
Please, Call me Taz. Thank you so much for your support thus far. I am not sure if my system is "Fine" but with one of the High pressure lines bursting it's only a matter of time the others go. I have spent over 800 already in replacing the acumulators and flushing out the system but age does degrade a lot of components and I am sure that I have air in my ABC lines after this failure. I honestly dont think I have ever seen any car leak THAT much oil. The bursting hose actually popped out my fog lamps and fluid was literally gushing out of the front fender grilles. Twas a rather sad sight.
It's why I am seriously considering the swap as getting the old girl back up and running will require another 400 - 500 right now anyway with rodeo tests, new ABC hoses and fluid. The 2003 CL500 is the best model year IMHO due to the 722.6 transmission and the M113 engine. I plan to drive this car daily until the wheels fall off and the timeless design always puts a smile of my face as I approach the car.
The roads in Ottawa aren't too bad now that summer is here. I don't plan to drive the car much during snowy days and I avoid roads with excessive potholes but have you had any issues with wheel scraping? How planted does the car stay during slightly spirited driving?
Thank you for confirming the topic of pulling fuses. I am not aware that you could code out ABC on the W215 cars. Do I just go up to the dealer and request him to do it?
Thread Starter
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@aaraakah
Please, Call me Taz. Thank you so much for your support thus far. I am not sure if my system is "Fine" but with one of the High pressure lines bursting it's only a matter of time the others go. I have spent over 800 already in replacing the acumulators and flushing out the system but age does degrade a lot of components and I am sure that I have air in my ABC lines after this failure. I honestly dont think I have ever seen any car leak THAT much oil. The bursting hose actually popped out my fog lamps and fluid was literally gushing out of the front fender grilles. Twas a rather sad sight.
It's why I am seriously considering the swap as getting the old girl back up and running will require another 400 - 500 right now anyway with rodeo tests, new ABC hoses and fluid. The 2003 CL500 is the best model year IMHO due to the 722.6 transmission and the M113 engine. I plan to drive this car daily until the wheels fall off and the timeless design always puts a smile of my face as I approach the car.
The roads in Ottawa aren't too bad now that summer is here. I don't plan to drive the car much during snowy days and I avoid roads with excessive potholes but have you had any issues with wheel scraping? How planted does the car stay during slightly spirited driving?
Thank you for confirming the topic of pulling fuses. I am not aware that you could code out ABC on the W215 cars. Do I just go up to the dealer and request him to do it?
Please, Call me Taz. Thank you so much for your support thus far. I am not sure if my system is "Fine" but with one of the High pressure lines bursting it's only a matter of time the others go. I have spent over 800 already in replacing the acumulators and flushing out the system but age does degrade a lot of components and I am sure that I have air in my ABC lines after this failure. I honestly dont think I have ever seen any car leak THAT much oil. The bursting hose actually popped out my fog lamps and fluid was literally gushing out of the front fender grilles. Twas a rather sad sight.
It's why I am seriously considering the swap as getting the old girl back up and running will require another 400 - 500 right now anyway with rodeo tests, new ABC hoses and fluid. The 2003 CL500 is the best model year IMHO due to the 722.6 transmission and the M113 engine. I plan to drive this car daily until the wheels fall off and the timeless design always puts a smile of my face as I approach the car.
The roads in Ottawa aren't too bad now that summer is here. I don't plan to drive the car much during snowy days and I avoid roads with excessive potholes but have you had any issues with wheel scraping? How planted does the car stay during slightly spirited driving?
Thank you for confirming the topic of pulling fuses. I am not aware that you could code out ABC on the W215 cars. Do I just go up to the dealer and request him to do it?
Wow. Lucky no fire! My biggest fear was that cleaning the mess would cost more than the conversion so I just circumvented it.
Some dealers seem willing to disable - others dont. Mine did. And with fuses still in place the warning went from red to white saying abc display is defective. Another convertee pulled the canbus cable out of the abc module. So lots of options.
I checked springs yesterday. 1,000 miles and no droop or sag yet. I experienced more scrapping when the car was lower at 26.5 f and 26.75 rear. I liked this look and handling better than My current settings. It will also depend on your wheel fitment. I now only scrape on severe road conditions typically extreme expansion joints at speed. The car is planted. Had another enthusiast test drive it also. He stayed away from w215 because of abc and now is looking for one.
Let us know how you get on.
Last edited by RA71025; Jun 30, 2016 at 07:33 PM. Reason: Typo
Thread Starter
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I was traveling for the last 3 weeks so not much more input. At 1,500 miles since install. No problems yet. I am still fiddling with damper settings due to minor bounciness on Severely uneven surfaces. Other than that, the car rides really well on flats and cornering. It also handles bumps well. Not sure what combo of damper settings will get the best results yet. But will keep at it.
Any others got feedback on their current damper settings? I am at 30f/28r. But will begin testing a lower rear setting.
Your lead time on purchase may vary. Check with the distributor first.
I really want to drive another Abc equipped CL to make my final judgement. Is there anyone in the northeast region willing to meet up?
Last edited by RA71025; Jul 30, 2016 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Typo
Thread Starter
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
W215 CL500
Aarkaan,
I must congratulate you on such a fantastic thread and success with your W215. In fact I specifically signed up to this forum just to gain more knowledge on this subject, as I'm from one of the UK forums and unfortunately it isn't too common to execute these conversions.
Anyway I've been studying this thread for some time, and decided to go ahead with the purchase of some Yellowspeed's. I will be tackling the conversion myself and understand its fairly straight forward; but I do have a few areas still a little muddy to clear up, if you don't mind?
I understand you can leave the tandem pump in and simply cap the lines, but looking at your photos you've capped them on the female side of the quick release? Of course you could unscrew the male side which fits into the strut and then apply a female caping nut; however I would like to sell the struts with the male part of the hydraulic line still in. If I understood what you did correctly? Where did you purchase these blanking caps? I remembered Strutmasters suppling these quick release bunging caps; and tried to email them to see if they would sell them to me. Of course I had no avail due to not purchasing a Strutmasters kit....
And have you had any other luck in regards to the white ABC messages? I'm thinking about maybe getting the light fix mod, but only if it does completely remove all the ABC messages.
This is much appreciated, I'll be having plenty of fun as soon as they are shipped to me within 10-15 days! And the dreaded sinking feeling of driving with the looming thought of the ABC to fail will diminish soon enough!
Morgan
I must congratulate you on such a fantastic thread and success with your W215. In fact I specifically signed up to this forum just to gain more knowledge on this subject, as I'm from one of the UK forums and unfortunately it isn't too common to execute these conversions.
Anyway I've been studying this thread for some time, and decided to go ahead with the purchase of some Yellowspeed's. I will be tackling the conversion myself and understand its fairly straight forward; but I do have a few areas still a little muddy to clear up, if you don't mind?
I understand you can leave the tandem pump in and simply cap the lines, but looking at your photos you've capped them on the female side of the quick release? Of course you could unscrew the male side which fits into the strut and then apply a female caping nut; however I would like to sell the struts with the male part of the hydraulic line still in. If I understood what you did correctly? Where did you purchase these blanking caps? I remembered Strutmasters suppling these quick release bunging caps; and tried to email them to see if they would sell them to me. Of course I had no avail due to not purchasing a Strutmasters kit....
And have you had any other luck in regards to the white ABC messages? I'm thinking about maybe getting the light fix mod, but only if it does completely remove all the ABC messages.
This is much appreciated, I'll be having plenty of fun as soon as they are shipped to me within 10-15 days! And the dreaded sinking feeling of driving with the looming thought of the ABC to fail will diminish soon enough!
Morgan
