abhilashkbaby83

Thanks a lot guys ... the exact problem i have ... couple days ago i parked my car infront of my house and try to start next day morning shifter not moving from park..and 3 malfuctions messeges on dash board screenABS/ESP/SOS ..i am so scared these f....g cars r expensive when u buy parts and i have no ideas abt car mechanisms or anything otherthan start the car and drive ... sp plaese tell me someone where do i put the switch which is mentioned above (W208:-001-545-64-09).. mine is 2001 E320 4matic...i dont want toe my car to any dealership .. plz someone replay soon .. wher do i can get those switches and where it goes.....how to fix it


plessssssssssssssssssssssssssssseee

MarcusF

This may help.

wpatd66

The length of the plunger has to be adjusted so that it is in contact with the brake pedal mechanism (when the pedal is NOT depressed). Then when the pedal is depressed, the plunger "releases", causing the lights to come on.

You can adjust the length of the plunger manually, by pulling it out or pushing it in. You will hear clicks.

If the plunger is too "short", then brake lights will be on all the time.

FYI, I found that the brake lights on my Mercedes do not light up unless the key is on or the car is running. If the key is off, no lights will light. This is different than American cars, which illuminate the brake lights with the key off or out of the ignition.

Petdro

P2006-001 Intake air temp sensor : Short circuit to plus, open circuit, I cannot locate this, on newer models it is in the maf, but on mine it is somewhere else, I have had the air filter box out, and cannot see it anywhere, it is not in the maf on my 2000 2.3 CLK 6 speed manual
Anyone got a how to on this?
Many thanks/first post here

Mercee

got the BAS/ABS light and beep the other day. thanks to this thread got it swapped out easily this weekend. the only problem was my dealer charged me $34 for the part so cheers to you guys who got it cheaper

dieterandcollee

After installing two new brake light switches over the past week and still no change in ABS/BAS warning lights--kept coming on, and having no brake lights or cruise control, independent tracked the problem to the headlight/parking light/fog lamp switch (the relay behind it?). Same symptoms with a very different cause, despite computer read-out indicating a bad brake light switch. Repair was yesterday but so far, so good. And by the way, my back-up lights now work again. I've not seen any posting where a faulty brake light switch affects the backup lights so maybe this is the one indication to check the headlight etc. switch/relay?

lewin1300

this fix works, I changed the battery(2002 E320) got the ESP and BAS codes turned the wheel as stated and WHALAH!!!! it worked both lights went out before turning off key. THANKS A BILLION!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

UncleSlam

That was an easy fix. Had the ABS and BAS/ESP lights whenever I first touched the brake pedal after starting. Then found out that I had been driving around for a few day without any brake lights working Just took off the brake switch, played with it, seemed like it was not coming all the way out. I lubed it up with some teflon, reinstalled and now I have brake light and no ABS BAS/ESP warnings. Sweet!

brianoneil

Just wanted to let everyone know that before we change MAF check everything else first..... I took my plugs out and low and behold the gap on each plug was about 50' they should be 39'. Purchased some NGK Plats and now I might get in trouble car runs like never before.

Now working on Brake light switch, I changed all four rotors and pads but noticed light coming on after a few 100+ mph stops after plugs were installed other than that car runs great

brianoneil

Gee I have the same issue, Car was running just fine. then one day while driving I had no power what so ever. transmission went into limp mode, changed MAF, Acelerator Sensor man car start fine now however still in limp mode already changed brake switch........... What could it be a wheel sensor that were am looking next any ideas??????? Cars starts fine, transmission engages smoothly however will not acelerate

benzowneralways

This is the 2nd time I had the BAS/abs sytem light come on the display. Gear shift stuck in park and no break lights. Checked my back records and found out when under warrenty the same thing happened and they replaced the switch (no charge). Now my car is 10 years old so I call the dealer and they said they needed the car a couple of days to run diagnostics etc. I told them it was the switch and I was so PO'd I looked up this forum. I bought the switch on line for $14.95 including shipping. It arrived 2 days later and I just changed is out in 10 min and everything is working normally. If you think you can't do it yourself your wrong. I am a 62 year old woman and the hardest part was getting myself under the dash of my 2002 CLK 320. I love this forum.

bbearden

Awesome! Glad to hear that this has helped out so many in avoiding a costly trip to the stealership!

MarcusF

Couple of days for diagnostics? That dealer would never get another dime of my money.

mforums

Gentlemen,
I have a 1999 clk430, the three warning ABS-BAS-ESP lights goes ON only on the hot weather day. I replaced the brake switch but didn't seems to help. These 3 lights on only on a hot day. After let it seat cool, lights clear away.
Any hints??? Thanks in advance.

Dave_NH

re my 2001 E320 with similar problems

About a year ago I noticed the Brake Light Error message would show up at random times even though all 3 lights were still working. Every now and then, the message would show up when I tapped the brakes. Engine off, re-start, usually no problem for a few days/weeks. It was a nagging problem, but since the lights still worked, I lived with it. A few months ago, I started to get the BAS/ABS light to show up. I confirmed that the ABS still worked on slickery surfaces. And, of course, the problem would go away and come back every few days.

I finally got irritated enough to look into the problem. It came down to hitting the "cheap solution" first, so I picked up the $20 switch. A half hour or so later, and the job was done. Bless all the pictures and commentaries on this site for help.

I checked the contact resistance and did a Dremel autopsy of the old switch and could see no signs of corrosion or other degradation, but what the heck, it was only $20. After a week or so without errors showing up, I mentally declared victory. Shortly after, the Brake light error came on again. :-)

At least after more than a month or use, the BAS/ABS error had not come back. By now I had figured out that I really had two problems; brake light and ABS light (which I appear to have fixed by replacing the switch). I recall my 1990 Volvo 740 had a similar problem; an intermittent working/failing brake light error. The Volvo's problem was a truly Mickey Mouse socket connection configuration that would permit a very thin layer of corrosion to cause a high resistance connection; the voltage drop was enough to trigger the error detection even though the bulb continued to work. I solved that one by soldering a jumper wire to the bulb base.

I mused that if Volvo can use sloppy engineers, so could Mercedes (I already knew the answer). So I reached back into my 40+ years in Electrical and Mechanical engineering for yet another highly technical solution. I wiggled the bulb assembly in the socket clockwise/counter clockwise for a dozen or so times. That scored the socket/plate connection enough to work through any high resistance connection. A light coating of white grease should help keep it from happening again for a while.

Now, everything works, still, and I no longer get irritating false error messages.

FWIW, I am not confident that any MB service department would have let me get away with a new switch and a wiggled bulb. At least not without charging me a couple hundred $$$.

Dave_NH

fguzelsozlu

Dealer told me that I have problem with the headlight switch and new part is €420+labour. How did you repair it? It will save me a lot. Thanks for quick reply...

GorjessTip

My car was repossessed Friday and I filed chapter 13 to get it back I know, but when I gain possession of the car today I noticed my check engine light was on, BAS, ESP, ABS AND my battery light! When they took my car I did not have ANY of these issues. I don't even know where to begin to fix the problem. I told my lawyer and she basically told me there is nothing we can do because we don't have solid PROOF that these malfunctions were not present before the car was repossessed

HELP!

JUNEBLOOD

When your esp bas and abs light came on did ya speedo still work

bbearden

No I have never had that issue before. I would check the fuses first and then run OBD scan if that is mot the problem to check for codes.

Krums4

I had the ABS ESP and ABS come on for the fits time today. My cruse has not stayed on since I bought it a few months ago but the lights just came on. Does anyone think these could be related problems?? I plan to get a new switch and try, can't hurt before I let the repair shop rip me off.

D.ORiGiNAL

Just ordered the part on ebay. It was 8 USD or something!

Thanks a lot for this DIY!

D.ORiGiNAL

So I just changed the switch (5 minutes job) but the lights are still there as soon as I press the brakes. I also had a brake line wear message but after changing the brake pads sensors it disappeared.

Do you think I should unplug the battery for a while to reset the system?

I tried the steering wheel reset way but it didn't do anything. Or should I have MB reset the codes with the computer?

Thanks for the help!

Marc

MarcusF

I've heard of cheap aftermarket knockoffs that fail right out of the box. My local MB dealer sells the part is $22. Uro makes an aftermarket switch for $15. Do the brake lights illuminate when you step on the brake pedal? If not, the $8 e-bay switch may be junk.

D.ORiGiNAL

Thanks for the answer. They do illuminate. Actually I realized that now the messages only appear after I drive a few hundreds meters and even if I DO NOT press the brakes.

I read somewhere else that different size tires can be a cause so I will go and get the OEM sizes on the four wheels. Right now my rear tires are bigger than my front and one of the rear tire is wider than the other side. Previous owner definitely knew a lot about cars...

D.ORiGiNAL

Changed tires. Now I have the same size all around but the problem is still there. Back to 0.