CLK wont start at all
#27
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Clk 320
Thanks. Not a bad site!
#28
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clk 430 cabriolet
This forum is awesom---but when you say your maf sensor is out, your car still ran....my maf sensor went bad two years ago and would not start---crank but not start---changed the maf sensor and worked fine.....All in all, I do love my car, but it seems that all these electronics that have been put in is more of a pain in the *** then anything....Most of my repairs or problems have been electrical or sensor, nothing so far mechanical......
#29
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2003 E55, 1965 Shelby AC Cobra, 2003 Hummer H2
I had this as problem. Seems everyone with a w208 has. The funny part was I brought the car into the dealer (already knowing what the issue was thanks for the forums). They looked at it for a few hours, told me it would cost almost 800 for fix. I told them all I needed was a 20 dollar crank shaft position sensor, they kept insisting that was not it and it would cost 800. So I just bought the 20 dollar part and put it in, has worked perfect every since. Don't always trust your dealer, they like money.
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jerrysfishing (12-07-2023)
#30
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2004 CLK 240
#31
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2000 CLK 430 Cabriolet
Jason: I haven't been on the site in a few weeks so this may be a little late. I got my MAF from
www.thebenzbin.com/mercedes_air_mass_meter.html
It was $207...
Too bad about your deal. All you had to do is let it sit for 20 minutes. It would have started right back up. At least you wouldn't have had to calla flat bed. $360+ is about right BUT when you think of it:
Part - $207
Labor - $150?!?!
It takes 10-15 minutes to change this thing. I know dealer's are high these days but do they charge $150 an hour?!?! *keep in mind it certainly doesn't take a trained mechanic an hour to change this part. It took me and BlackBenz about 20 minutes*. Oh well. I've been cruisin all summer with no problems (other than tires) so I've been fortunate.
www.thebenzbin.com/mercedes_air_mass_meter.html
It was $207...
Too bad about your deal. All you had to do is let it sit for 20 minutes. It would have started right back up. At least you wouldn't have had to calla flat bed. $360+ is about right BUT when you think of it:
Part - $207
Labor - $150?!?!
It takes 10-15 minutes to change this thing. I know dealer's are high these days but do they charge $150 an hour?!?! *keep in mind it certainly doesn't take a trained mechanic an hour to change this part. It took me and BlackBenz about 20 minutes*. Oh well. I've been cruisin all summer with no problems (other than tires) so I've been fortunate.
Last edited by Whodat; 07-10-2007 at 01:40 PM.
#34
Finally, I pull the trigger and changed out the CPS on a W209 and W211. Both are designed the same and the worst to change. In order to reach the CPS, you'll need to remove the wire management. Once you are able to position the wires out of the way, it should only take 30 minutes to unclip the cable, remove the bolt, and CPS. Getting to the bolt is tricky, but with the right tools and a wife with small hands and arms, it's a piece of cake. I attached the E8 torx to a 3in extender, the 3in extender to a 1/4-3/8 universal joint, and the universal joint to a 10in extender. My wife help guide the extender to the bolt, and all you'll need to do is turn it slowly until the E8 socket latches on. Once this is done, remember to remove the bolt with your fingers, or you'll drop the bolt down to the pan (which of course happened to me on both cars). Getting the bolt from the pan isn't too bad if you have a telescopic magnet. Now after replacing the CPS, I used a small piece of masking tape to hold the bolt into the socket, the wife guides it back, I turned the extender bar a few times and the bolt catches. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, but still a pain compare to changing on a ML320.
Hope this helps another DIY CPS change member.
Hope this helps another DIY CPS change member.
#35
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W218. W208
Hi my fellow MBWorld! I need you guys help and advice on my W208 That wont start. It has the same symptoms as the crank position sensor which I replaced last year and got fix. It will turn over and crank but wont start and will die on me while driving. I changed my fuel pump, MAF last year and camshaft position sensor that I just changed yesterday thinking it will fix it and still no hope. Please I need HELP!!! What do I need to do???
#37
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Mercedes CLK430
I know this is an old post c7296 but while i'm not a MB tech it sounds to me like you are having a starter drive failure...you are hearing the starter motor spin freely -but it is not engaging the flywheel. The other sounds seem new as usually they are drowned out by the engine starting, thus I suspect the other sounds are relays, fuel pump etc.
Secondly, on the cps issues, I suspect heat soak damage....I always let my cars idle for 15 seconds before I shut it down when hot...even longer if its fully hot, fresh off the freeway and just rolling in for fuel...give em 30 seconds to cool off and this usuallybavoids heat soak which is the engine actually getting hotter after shutdown before it starts to cool off, combined with no air flow over the engine....damage to heat sensitive electronics can result.
Hope this helps some folks out
Secondly, on the cps issues, I suspect heat soak damage....I always let my cars idle for 15 seconds before I shut it down when hot...even longer if its fully hot, fresh off the freeway and just rolling in for fuel...give em 30 seconds to cool off and this usuallybavoids heat soak which is the engine actually getting hotter after shutdown before it starts to cool off, combined with no air flow over the engine....damage to heat sensitive electronics can result.
Hope this helps some folks out
#38
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CLK500
I have searched a bit before posting this...
I have an '06 CLK 500. When the car is cooled off it starts just fine. After its warmed up and you try and start it, it will start, but cranks slowly, sometimes VERY slowly. Two times I've had to try to start twice before it would start. I took it to the local auto parts store to have them test it. The alternator check out great, and the battery seemed to be okay. When he had me start it, it cranked slow and he told me there was a 680amp draw on the battery at start-up. He said it should be ~180-200... He told me that my starter may just be worn out and after it gets warm, it gets worse.
Does this sound legit? If so, which starter is the best? I've looked on RockAuto.com and found about 4 different ones. There is also a local shop that you can drop them off, get it repaired, and pick them up in a day or 2.
Here is the link to the list of starters...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
I have an '06 CLK 500. When the car is cooled off it starts just fine. After its warmed up and you try and start it, it will start, but cranks slowly, sometimes VERY slowly. Two times I've had to try to start twice before it would start. I took it to the local auto parts store to have them test it. The alternator check out great, and the battery seemed to be okay. When he had me start it, it cranked slow and he told me there was a 680amp draw on the battery at start-up. He said it should be ~180-200... He told me that my starter may just be worn out and after it gets warm, it gets worse.
Does this sound legit? If so, which starter is the best? I've looked on RockAuto.com and found about 4 different ones. There is also a local shop that you can drop them off, get it repaired, and pick them up in a day or 2.
Here is the link to the list of starters...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
I typically have my starters and alternators rebuilt. My local guy takes about an hour to 90 minutes. The cost is about $70.
Before tackling the starter, I'd swap the battery if it's a day over 4 years old.
Before tackling the starter, I'd swap the battery if it's a day over 4 years old.
#41
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CLK500
Thanks... I'll check it out on my dad's lift. I'll probably just repair/replace both if it's that cheap... I'll just keep the old battery...
#43
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CLK500
My parents collect old muscle cars. They have a 68 Roadrunner, 70 Dodge Challenger, 70 Dodge Coronet 500 conv., and a 69 Charger R/T... My dad's retired but still likes to work on cars, so my mom bought him a lift for his birthday a few years back...
#46
clk430 2002 wont start
my clk430 was sitting for few weeks and when went start did not start and did not even make any sound ,use booster same checked the key battery is ok can anyone please help
thanks
thanks
#49
Engine not start but only cranks
Crankshaft position sensor , it's about 30 box and it's right behind the firewall in the back of the engine will solve your problem clk430-320 2003 down ... Good luck
Can someone please help me. My car has been fine for the last few months and working great I finally got a list of problem sorted with it and have been happy with it at last, however today when I went to start the car, the dash lights up, there are a few whizz sounds from the engine and the back of the car a few clicks, the key turns but the car wont start at all the instrument cluster lights flicker and the car wont start, I was told by the mechanic that its a low battery and to try jumping it. The battery is pretty much new about 2 months old, I did try a jump start though and that still didnt work, I cant take it to the garage because I have no way to get it there and they wont come out... Is there anything else I could do, would this be an issue with the starter motor, and where exactly is the starter motor (sorry if its a really dumb question) its W208, CLK 230 K Automatic
Hope someone can help with any suggestions, cant get it out of the garage
Its also just in time for the Service A Due Now message to appear on the Cluster, it was a 100 miles away yesterday... Its only just come up with the message and the car wont even start now, lol
Have read a few threads about cleaning battery connectors and checking fuses, already tried all those...[/QUOTE]
Can someone please help me. My car has been fine for the last few months and working great I finally got a list of problem sorted with it and have been happy with it at last, however today when I went to start the car, the dash lights up, there are a few whizz sounds from the engine and the back of the car a few clicks, the key turns but the car wont start at all the instrument cluster lights flicker and the car wont start, I was told by the mechanic that its a low battery and to try jumping it. The battery is pretty much new about 2 months old, I did try a jump start though and that still didnt work, I cant take it to the garage because I have no way to get it there and they wont come out... Is there anything else I could do, would this be an issue with the starter motor, and where exactly is the starter motor (sorry if its a really dumb question) its W208, CLK 230 K Automatic
Hope someone can help with any suggestions, cant get it out of the garage
Its also just in time for the Service A Due Now message to appear on the Cluster, it was a 100 miles away yesterday... Its only just come up with the message and the car wont even start now, lol
Have read a few threads about cleaning battery connectors and checking fuses, already tried all those...[/QUOTE]
#50
MBWorld Fanatic!
@partoviclk430
You may want to ignore Shahpooreslamia advise about a CPS. He's responding to the original question which is eight years old and rehashes an answer that was given in 2007. The original question is a different problem than what you have.
You may want to ignore Shahpooreslamia advise about a CPS. He's responding to the original question which is eight years old and rehashes an answer that was given in 2007. The original question is a different problem than what you have.