Drivers window not working right....help
just a refresher course
lower window (not speed down)
Hold 5 seconds when at bottom
raise window (not speed up)..if it stops..let go and press up some more
when it gets to top, hold 5 seconds
give it a try and report back

So my thesis on this is that my Audio system (Jl W6 sub in particular) has caused this problem. I am curious to know how many of those who have not been able to resolve the issue with a recommended resync method do currently or have had subwoofers rattling the bones of the car?
My theory is that something has came loose or slowly shifted inside the doors due to the constant vibrations. Maybe something to do with the positioning of the window tracks or other components inside the door panels....

Cindy I've tried the procedure too many times to count...finally took her in today to a reputable Indy to look at. We will see what happens. Not only does mine not roll all the way up but the auto up down feature is gone too...
Gundo, I've attached some pictures to show you what you are in for. Popping the door panel off is quite easy and only takes about 4-5 screws I believe. I also took the speakers off and sounds dampening for more access. Below you can see a picture of the adjustment guides on the window. I can't seem to get it right. I will update you after I speak to me mechanic about this one.



KRis
KRis

My windows have no problem rolling up fully if I just do it manually by holding up on first setting until up, however if I hit the one touch up they go all the way up to the top then bounce back down leaving a 1 1/2" or so gap. Both sides do this. This is the problem I can't seem to correct with any suggested reset features.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

"What I found out is that if you open the door, roll down the window to the bottom, and then lie down underneath the door you will see some rubber plugs. Take these out, and then look up inside these holes, and you will see some star shaped bolts. These are the stops for the window regulator, and are adjustable. You will need a female Torx socket of the appropriate size. To make the window stop a little lower, turn the two adjusters (front and rear of window) a quarter of a turn clockwise each (or more as required), and then check the alignment. Ajust them up or down as appropriate, and check the alignment by winding up the window and shutting the door. Don't forget those seals do need to keep the weather out! When you have got the adjustment right, replace the rubber plugs, and then sit in the car, and wind the windows up by holding the switch at the first position (not one touch up), then hold in the 1st position for about 5 seconds. They should then function correctly, and you shouldn't have to slam the doors!!! It worked on mine!"
As for the auto up/ auto down...here was my problem.
I had taken the door panel off the adjust the window. I tried to re-program the window while the door panel was off. This apparently is a big no-no. The window will only re-program itself if the door is closed (or at least the car thinks your door is closed). During the door panel removal process you are required to remove a small C-clip from around the lock mechanism on the door. The C-clip acts as a push button of sorts. When you close the door with this peice on it pushed a small switch below your hinge (on door frame) to tell the car the door is closed (which allows you to re-program the window and will return the auto-up and auto-down function). I had this peice off and couldn't figure out why my window would not program or the auto up and down would not work.
Furthermore, some people lose the ability to re-program their windows and lose the auto-up auto-down feature because the actual door jamb switch fails and the car always thinks the door is open in-advertantly. For those who simply cannot re-program or have lost the auto up and auto down...look for the door jam switch and try replacing it. It is very small and cheap and sometimes fail. Should this switch have failed you would not be able to program your windows. Does that make sense?

KRis
In my first picture of inside the door mechanism you can see the vertical bronze screw. These are the adjustment screws. 1 per side. I've been told that it is good to get in the door panel and grease the rails while you are at it. That's what I ended up doing. You can see the green mtb paste on the support rail.
KRis
As for the auto up/ auto down...here was my problem.
I had taken the door panel off the adjust the window. I tried to re-program the window while the door panel was off. This apparently is a big no-no. The window will only re-program itself if the door is closed (or at least the car thinks your door is closed). During the door panel removal process you are required to remove a small C-clip from around the lock mechanism on the door. The C-clip acts as a push button of sorts. When you close the door with this peice on it pushed a small switch below your hinge (on door frame) to tell the car the door is closed (which allows you to re-program the window and will return the auto-up and auto-down function). I had this peice off and couldn't figure out why my window would not program or the auto up and down would not work.
Furthermore, some people lose the ability to re-program their windows and lose the auto-up auto-down feature because the actual door jamb switch fails and the car always thinks the door is open in-advertantly. For those who simply cannot re-program or have lost the auto up and auto down...look for the door jam switch and try replacing it. It is very small and cheap and sometimes fail. Should this switch have failed you would not be able to program your windows. Does that make sense?

KRis
Removing the rear speaker meant I could get better access by removing the vapour barrier plastic.
1.Tightened & Loctited the 10mm bolt at the front of the door under the seat controls
2.Used silicone grease on window mechanism slides, the toothed gear plate (teeth & sides), Light oil on the pivot points x4, rear white guide strip greased as well.
3. Tightened the 3 torx fasteners holding the motor to the door skin, mine were moving.
4. Used a centre punch to stop loose rivets in the same area
5. Removed motor connection plug and sprayed electric contact cleaner on plug and socket.
Hope this helps
As for the auto up/ auto down...here was my problem.
I had taken the door panel off the adjust the window. I tried to re-program the window while the door panel was off. This apparently is a big no-no. The window will only re-program itself if the door is closed (or at least the car thinks your door is closed). During the door panel removal process you are required to remove a small C-clip from around the lock mechanism on the door. The C-clip acts as a push button of sorts. When you close the door with this peice on it pushed a small switch below your hinge (on door frame) to tell the car the door is closed (which allows you to re-program the window and will return the auto-up and auto-down function). I had this peice off and couldn't figure out why my window would not program or the auto up and down would not work.
Furthermore, some people lose the ability to re-program their windows and lose the auto-up auto-down feature because the actual door jamb switch fails and the car always thinks the door is open in-advertantly. For those who simply cannot re-program or have lost the auto up and auto down...look for the door jam switch and try replacing it. It is very small and cheap and sometimes fail. Should this switch have failed you would not be able to program your windows. Does that make sense?

KRis







