Changing Brakes
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Changing Brakes
My CLKs computer just started yelling at me about my brake linings. I have done brakes (drum and disk) on several trucks, but am kinda nervous about messing with my MB. Is it the same thing? When I replace the pads and turn the rotors, will the computer automatically realize its been done, or will it need to be reset? To push the caliper back in, can I get away with 2 boards and a c-clamp like on trucks, or will something better be needed? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks alot,
MT
MT
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Joined: Nov 2001
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I need some help guys. I have a 98 CLK320 and I followed the instructions from mercedesshop.com about the DIY brake pad change (instructions were for a W210) but can't seem to figure something out.
I'm trying to change the front brakes but don't know how to remove the pads. The instructions say I need to pop out 2 cross-pins but I can't find them.
Can anyone please tell me what to remove so I can have access to the brake pads? I think I saw 1 torx screw but I'm not sure if that's correct or what the size is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
J
I'm trying to change the front brakes but don't know how to remove the pads. The instructions say I need to pop out 2 cross-pins but I can't find them.
Can anyone please tell me what to remove so I can have access to the brake pads? I think I saw 1 torx screw but I'm not sure if that's correct or what the size is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
J
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 212
Likes: 2
From: Maryland USA
2003 C230 Coupe
Dude I don't know why it took so long for an answer.
But here we go.
The fron pads do not have any pins. You must remove the 2 sliding screws that hold the caliper to the frame. Then remove the frame too if you want to clean it well on the pad contact parts otherwise you can clean it carefully as mounted. Removing the mounting frame sometimes requires a long arm sowcket wrench and you need some sort of torque measurement tool when torquing it back if you don't have experience doing it. Also the frame screws are held in place also with locktite so it may be difficult for most peoples tools to remove it. I would keep the frame in place and just remove the caliper assembly to get the pads out.
Seat the caliper assembly on top of the rotors to reduce strain on the brake lines.
You need to clean the frame from rust /dust very well to allow the pads to move freely. The mechanic I saw doing this job used antiseize on the pad contact surfaces to help lubricate and prvent rust.
Use the MB Moly grease behind the pads.
Also the sliding screws that hold the caliper in place need to be well cleaned to allow the caliper frame to move as the pads wear. dont use anti-seize around it as it contacts rubber bushings. Use the Sil-Glyde Brake lubricant on caliper slides an cotact points. Its made by AGS. It is a non-metilng lubricant temp/water resistant.
While you are at it, put anti-seize around the center shaft outer surface to make it easier to remove the tires the next time. It may even help for the future removal of the rotors whenever you need to.
But here we go.
The fron pads do not have any pins. You must remove the 2 sliding screws that hold the caliper to the frame. Then remove the frame too if you want to clean it well on the pad contact parts otherwise you can clean it carefully as mounted. Removing the mounting frame sometimes requires a long arm sowcket wrench and you need some sort of torque measurement tool when torquing it back if you don't have experience doing it. Also the frame screws are held in place also with locktite so it may be difficult for most peoples tools to remove it. I would keep the frame in place and just remove the caliper assembly to get the pads out.
Seat the caliper assembly on top of the rotors to reduce strain on the brake lines.
You need to clean the frame from rust /dust very well to allow the pads to move freely. The mechanic I saw doing this job used antiseize on the pad contact surfaces to help lubricate and prvent rust.
Use the MB Moly grease behind the pads.
Also the sliding screws that hold the caliper in place need to be well cleaned to allow the caliper frame to move as the pads wear. dont use anti-seize around it as it contacts rubber bushings. Use the Sil-Glyde Brake lubricant on caliper slides an cotact points. Its made by AGS. It is a non-metilng lubricant temp/water resistant.
While you are at it, put anti-seize around the center shaft outer surface to make it easier to remove the tires the next time. It may even help for the future removal of the rotors whenever you need to.
