Wanting door speaker(s) 6.5 size - mine is blown
12-05-2008, 12:25 PM
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CLK, ML320, 400E, 400SE
Wanting door speaker(s) 6.5 size - mine is blown
If anyone has upgraded their CLK audio and want to sell the front, door speaker 6.5 I'm intersted.
Thanks,
Russell
Thanks,
Russell
12-05-2008, 06:09 PM
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1999 CLK 320 Coupe
sorry to ask an only semi-related question in reply to your post (you'll probably know the answer), but i just found out last week that my driver's side door speaker is not working. all the other speakers in the car work fine.
does this likely indicate a wire has come unconnected somewhere and it's nothing more than that? also, is the only way to examine and/or replace the door speakers to remove the whole inside door panel? i did a search and didn't see anyone mention that you can just pop off the speaker grill. guess i just want to know where i'd start with troubleshooting this.
sorry for inserting my question into your thread but it doesn't make sense to start a whole new one if we're already sort of on the general topic
does this likely indicate a wire has come unconnected somewhere and it's nothing more than that? also, is the only way to examine and/or replace the door speakers to remove the whole inside door panel? i did a search and didn't see anyone mention that you can just pop off the speaker grill. guess i just want to know where i'd start with troubleshooting this.
sorry for inserting my question into your thread but it doesn't make sense to start a whole new one if we're already sort of on the general topic
12-05-2008, 06:45 PM
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02 CLK 430 Cab
You would have to remove the door panel to get to the speakers. I have replaces the original speakers in my car, but I think I threw away the original ones. I will double check to see if I still have them.
12-05-2008, 10:35 PM
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CLK, ML320, 400E, 400SE
(thanks for checking to see if you have 6-1/2 speaker!)
This might be of help when researching your speaker problem...........
The door in the CLK Coup has 3 speakers in each door. 1st are any of the speaker working?
Below is info taken from other post that might be of assistance.....
1 top of door tweeter: 1-3/8" OD (i.e. 3/4" tweeter), 1/2" deep with 3/4" total available mounting depth.
1 at Lower door panel towards foot-well 6-1/2" OD, 2-1/8" deep with 2-7/8" total available mounting depth.
1 at Lower door panel towards base of seat: 4"
Provied by Rval 1999 / Rick on Door Panel Removal
In case you did not find an adequate answer to your door removal question, here is a step by step, 100% Accurate description on how to remove the door (on a 1998 CLK320 which should be the same for other years) from a guy who has done it 5 times in the past two weeks:
You will need a large and small phillips and flathead screwdriver for this procedure.
1. Open the door and examine what you will be doing. There are 4 "screw sets" that must be removed, the easiest are the ones in the silver/chrome plate at the upper outside edge of the door (3 screws) and the single screw/trim piece surrounding the lock/latch of the door.
2. Next remove the small "SRS" Airbag symbol on the side airbag. The piece is held in by "snapping" in place, but also has a sort of supplemental retainer, such that when you pry the piece off and "unsnap" it, the retainer will prevent the piece from falling to the ground. Behind this SRS piece is a large screw that must be unscrewed.
3. Now remove the tweeter/speaker cover at the top/front of the door. It merely snaps into place. There are two points that clip the cover into place. At the top poin is a "straight male into femal" clip that pulls right out, on the bottom is an L shaped clip. Your best bet is to pull the top towards you and in a motion as if the bottom of the triangle grill was on a hinge. When it is removed the tweeter must be unplugged, carefull not to break the wire harness/holder.
4. The most difficult part involves removing the door handle to access a large srew behind it. Look at the door handle (not the door "opening" handle, but the solid non-metal closing handle) closely. You will see, especially if you look at an underneath angle, the the handle is two pieces, and that a small slot exists underneath for prying the handle cover off. Uses the larger flathead to jam up into the slot. It seems violent and the piece is on so tight, but if you work it, it will come off. Upon removal, the exposed bolt should be removed.
5. Use a larger flatehead to pry the bottom of the door between the metal and the door panel. If you push the screwdriver up enough, you should pop one of the reusable clips, there are about 15 of these bordering the entire door panel, except for the top. By gentel, but firm, and all should be well. They are easy/cheap to replace if you break them. Now put the window down.
6. The top ledge of the door rests tightly on a slotted rail. Using the door handle and any other leverage point, lift the door panel off of the rail. Once it separates, you will need to unplug the bottom door lamp, the power seat controls and unhook the door lock/latch. Observe carefully how it is set up, so that you can reinstall it correctly.
7. To reinstall, do all steps in reverse remebering the border clips pop back into place with a good pound of the fist, just make sure they are alighned correctly first.
These instructions are 100% Accurate and if followed will allow you to remove the door panel so that you may attempt to find the squeeks/vibrations, but alas, you never will........
Rick
This might be of help when researching your speaker problem...........
The door in the CLK Coup has 3 speakers in each door. 1st are any of the speaker working?
Below is info taken from other post that might be of assistance.....
1 top of door tweeter: 1-3/8" OD (i.e. 3/4" tweeter), 1/2" deep with 3/4" total available mounting depth.
1 at Lower door panel towards foot-well 6-1/2" OD, 2-1/8" deep with 2-7/8" total available mounting depth.
1 at Lower door panel towards base of seat: 4"
Provied by Rval 1999 / Rick on Door Panel Removal
In case you did not find an adequate answer to your door removal question, here is a step by step, 100% Accurate description on how to remove the door (on a 1998 CLK320 which should be the same for other years) from a guy who has done it 5 times in the past two weeks:
You will need a large and small phillips and flathead screwdriver for this procedure.
1. Open the door and examine what you will be doing. There are 4 "screw sets" that must be removed, the easiest are the ones in the silver/chrome plate at the upper outside edge of the door (3 screws) and the single screw/trim piece surrounding the lock/latch of the door.
2. Next remove the small "SRS" Airbag symbol on the side airbag. The piece is held in by "snapping" in place, but also has a sort of supplemental retainer, such that when you pry the piece off and "unsnap" it, the retainer will prevent the piece from falling to the ground. Behind this SRS piece is a large screw that must be unscrewed.
3. Now remove the tweeter/speaker cover at the top/front of the door. It merely snaps into place. There are two points that clip the cover into place. At the top poin is a "straight male into femal" clip that pulls right out, on the bottom is an L shaped clip. Your best bet is to pull the top towards you and in a motion as if the bottom of the triangle grill was on a hinge. When it is removed the tweeter must be unplugged, carefull not to break the wire harness/holder.
4. The most difficult part involves removing the door handle to access a large srew behind it. Look at the door handle (not the door "opening" handle, but the solid non-metal closing handle) closely. You will see, especially if you look at an underneath angle, the the handle is two pieces, and that a small slot exists underneath for prying the handle cover off. Uses the larger flathead to jam up into the slot. It seems violent and the piece is on so tight, but if you work it, it will come off. Upon removal, the exposed bolt should be removed.
5. Use a larger flatehead to pry the bottom of the door between the metal and the door panel. If you push the screwdriver up enough, you should pop one of the reusable clips, there are about 15 of these bordering the entire door panel, except for the top. By gentel, but firm, and all should be well. They are easy/cheap to replace if you break them. Now put the window down.
6. The top ledge of the door rests tightly on a slotted rail. Using the door handle and any other leverage point, lift the door panel off of the rail. Once it separates, you will need to unplug the bottom door lamp, the power seat controls and unhook the door lock/latch. Observe carefully how it is set up, so that you can reinstall it correctly.
7. To reinstall, do all steps in reverse remebering the border clips pop back into place with a good pound of the fist, just make sure they are alighned correctly first.
These instructions are 100% Accurate and if followed will allow you to remove the door panel so that you may attempt to find the squeeks/vibrations, but alas, you never will........
Rick
