OGCLK320

My brights have not worked for over a year now. have any of you experienced this? its not the bulbs. i think it would be the turn signal camber because some times if i had my right turn signal on. and turned on and off the brights they would sometimes work. but now they never do... can any of you help??

C280 Sport

Find a Inde shop and have them look at it.

gorgerider

I have same situation - no brights, but everything else on the combination switch works OK. The car is a 2000 CLK 320 cab. My indy shop said it was the combination switch and it needed to be replaced. I bought the part, but I notice there is a call for a special tool for the relacement procedure. I have looked at the threads and posts on removing the steering wheel down to the plastic disk, but have not found further instructions as to what is behind the disk nor anything about use of a special tool and replacing the switch.

Is there any help out there for guys who are real skittish about digging into this wiring?

Thanks for your response.

dlbehrns

do a search in the DIY thread on the w208 forum as well as the C and E forums. this is the first time in six years and can remember anyone with this particular problem.

gorgerider

Here's an update:

I changed out the combination switch this afternoon. Once I rounded up the correct tools, the whole job took less than 45 minutes - certainly less than the 2 hours book time cited by my indy and the stealership.
I could not find a torx T-27 with a handle that would fit between the back of the steering wheel and the dash (even with wheel pulled all the way out. I ended up using a 5/32" Allen wrench instead (as suggested by another post on another thread). It worked, but the wrench looks pretty ratty afterward. I don't know how badly the screwhead faired. If they made a torx wrench shaped like a typical L-shaped Allen wrench, that'd be the choice. And I suspect that that was the "special tool" mentioned by my indy mech he said was required by the manual.

The steering wheel nut was removed using a 10mm Allen-head socket on an impact air gun. It took about 20 seconds of pounding at 80 psi, but it finally broke loose without heatburn. The impact wrench was used because I was flying solo and couldn't turn the wrench and hold the wheel at the same time.

I removed and replaced the combination switch per instructions found on other threads. Once back together, I checked for brights and they were there in both directions (switch position forward and back). I then started the engine and took the wheel stop to stop five times. The ABS and SRS lights went out within two rotations. A road test will tell me if the cruise control is functioning.

So, my indy mech was spot on in his diagnosis.