Need to get my cluster fixed
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Need to get my cluster fixed
Okay I used the search function and tried the DIY, and it did not work!
There are a number of places that will do the fix, but I am wondering who anyone here has used and how it turned out.
I also want to know if they reset the the Odometer - I don't want to reset mine.
Thanks
There are a number of places that will do the fix, but I am wondering who anyone here has used and how it turned out.
I also want to know if they reset the the Odometer - I don't want to reset mine.
Thanks
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
So the DIY didn't work . . . . . that's what this guy said, way back when . . .
There are two flexible printed circuits that go from the board to the LCDs on the left and right sides. The middle display does not use a flexible printed circuit, so it rarely goes bad.
These flexible printed circuits are GLUED to the main board and generally trying to remove the flexible printed circuit to repair it will destroy it, so you need to have a replacement at hand already. Generally what happens is excessive vibration (despite being held down by a piece of foam rubber which is supposed to dampen the vibrations) will cause traces on the flexible printed circuit to break. This usually happens at a weak point, which is right after the PC exits the rubber vibration dampener.
If you can repair the actual PC (esp. after you destroy it when removing it), you are an electronics genius. If you can get a replacement PC, you are probably a parts supply genius or are on intimate terms with someone from VDO.
If you're adventurous, you can replace the whole flexible PC link with something like wires, but it will require a lot of work because the other end of the flexible PC is attached to the LCD.
This was written by a guy named Jerry:
My time and temperature and gear indicators were mostly out like I hear others talk about. Since I do electronics repair I thought I would look and see what was going on. What I found is there are three ribbon cables that connect things together. The types of ribbon cable used in the instrument cluster are one with copper foil in it for the middle one. The two that cause the trouble are the two that use what looks like aluminum in them. To make one they lay down a piece of clear plastic and then use narrow strips of what I think is paint. Then there is another piece of plastic glued over it. Sort of a sandwich. The problem I found on mine is at the end that goes onto the circuit board. The one piece of plastic is shortened a little so the bare strips touch the copper pads on the circuit board. The seem to use some type of glue to hold them in place as well as a small rubber strip set in the upper plastic the snaps onto the circuit board to press it down. The connections between the aluminum and the copper goes bad some how and looses contact. I bought a conductive pen the writes with a paint with a lot of silver in it and redrew the last quarter inch or so of trace. I cleaned the copper up real good and put it back together. All light up real nice now. WARNING This isn't an easy job due to the size. I used a binocular microscope to work with.
So, did you try either of these two methods, or did you try the "replace the foam because that's what wears" method?
There are two flexible printed circuits that go from the board to the LCDs on the left and right sides. The middle display does not use a flexible printed circuit, so it rarely goes bad.
These flexible printed circuits are GLUED to the main board and generally trying to remove the flexible printed circuit to repair it will destroy it, so you need to have a replacement at hand already. Generally what happens is excessive vibration (despite being held down by a piece of foam rubber which is supposed to dampen the vibrations) will cause traces on the flexible printed circuit to break. This usually happens at a weak point, which is right after the PC exits the rubber vibration dampener.
If you can repair the actual PC (esp. after you destroy it when removing it), you are an electronics genius. If you can get a replacement PC, you are probably a parts supply genius or are on intimate terms with someone from VDO.
If you're adventurous, you can replace the whole flexible PC link with something like wires, but it will require a lot of work because the other end of the flexible PC is attached to the LCD.
This was written by a guy named Jerry:
My time and temperature and gear indicators were mostly out like I hear others talk about. Since I do electronics repair I thought I would look and see what was going on. What I found is there are three ribbon cables that connect things together. The types of ribbon cable used in the instrument cluster are one with copper foil in it for the middle one. The two that cause the trouble are the two that use what looks like aluminum in them. To make one they lay down a piece of clear plastic and then use narrow strips of what I think is paint. Then there is another piece of plastic glued over it. Sort of a sandwich. The problem I found on mine is at the end that goes onto the circuit board. The one piece of plastic is shortened a little so the bare strips touch the copper pads on the circuit board. The seem to use some type of glue to hold them in place as well as a small rubber strip set in the upper plastic the snaps onto the circuit board to press it down. The connections between the aluminum and the copper goes bad some how and looses contact. I bought a conductive pen the writes with a paint with a lot of silver in it and redrew the last quarter inch or so of trace. I cleaned the copper up real good and put it back together. All light up real nice now. WARNING This isn't an easy job due to the size. I used a binocular microscope to work with.
So, did you try either of these two methods, or did you try the "replace the foam because that's what wears" method?
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Here's an alternative for you: CLK Cluster DIY.pdf
It includes some pics as well as written guidance.
Good luck
It includes some pics as well as written guidance.
Good luck
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Here's an alternative for you: Attachment 151352
It includes some pics as well as written guidance.
Good luck![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
It includes some pics as well as written guidance.
Good luck
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NorCal
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BMW
I'm experiencing the same problem. The pixels in the temp/time/and gear viewer are practically all dead, almost nothing shows up anymore.
I'm slowly getting ready to sell the car, so I need to take care of this problem asap & I don't want to spend like $1100 on a new cluster.
I'm slowly getting ready to sell the car, so I need to take care of this problem asap & I don't want to spend like $1100 on a new cluster.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Here's an alternative for you: Attachment 151352
It includes some pics as well as written guidance.
Good luck![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
It includes some pics as well as written guidance.
Good luck
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I have not posted for a long time!
My cluster started to loose pixels nearly two years ago I finally got fed up with the missing pixels. I pulled the cluster again and sent it to BBA reman.
Got it back in the car Monday, no more missing pixels, $159 all in (shipping, insurance & repair).
Very happy so far.
I will have owned the CLK for 10 years in March next year it feels like part of the family now and overall it has been a great car, need to hang on to it while my daughter finishes college, then we will see.
My cluster started to loose pixels nearly two years ago I finally got fed up with the missing pixels. I pulled the cluster again and sent it to BBA reman.
Got it back in the car Monday, no more missing pixels, $159 all in (shipping, insurance & repair).
Very happy so far.
I will have owned the CLK for 10 years in March next year it feels like part of the family now and overall it has been a great car, need to hang on to it while my daughter finishes college, then we will see.
Last edited by Martin; 11-24-2010 at 12:56 PM.
#10
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: FL 33325
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 CLK 430
Okay I used the search function and tried the DIY, and it did not work!
There are a number of places that will do the fix, but I am wondering who anyone here has used and how it turned out.
I also want to know if they reset the the Odometer - I don't want to reset mine.
Thanks
There are a number of places that will do the fix, but I am wondering who anyone here has used and how it turned out.
I also want to know if they reset the the Odometer - I don't want to reset mine.
Thanks
well i just had my replaced $1200.00 (covered tho by warranty).
![bow](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
if any one wants the old factory one 61K miles. nothing major only a few pixels (clock&gear) missing. also need to replace backlights bulbs. also getting my climate control unit (dash) $1100.00 replaced (when push auto on driver side won't turn on, but funny thing is u push left side auto it turns both side (red lights) on.
make offer on ea one or both...............
Last edited by J56BP; 05-18-2011 at 07:53 AM.