tastoto

Basically the promblem i have now is that the back is sitting a little higher than the front what could this be

A1EK

I had the same problem, did you use Eibach Pro Kit? In the end I cut half a coil turn off my rear springs.

tastoto

yes i have the eibach pro kit installed also but do not want to be cutting springs

SoCalw11w123

stick #2 pads up front!

that or add some 3 or 4 12" woofers and a crapp-load of Amps, to lower your rear...(thats what I did!)

What happened to the coil-overs?

tastoto

I took the coilovers off as the car was to low and i lost the ride quality also have new rims on now will post pics soon. also to much weight will slow the car down

sfclk

I have eibachs and #1s all around it it sits to my liking. The rear tire is closer to the fender but the rear is further from ground.

Are the coilovers for sale?! I'm interested.

Gotkix@gmail.com

tastoto

im giving my coilovers to my family member so im not selling them

krayzie_e99

ya eibach dont make your car sit level. i ended up cutting the springs in the front cause it left too much of a gap

A1EK

Its strange how different CLK with different spec sit differently isnt it, as my front was fine for me with number #1 pad, but it was my rear that was too high.

The other thing I have done before is to take any pad you have spare for the rears, place them in a vice and where the joint seam is on the rubber cut here with saw and remove the pad base.This will allow the car to sit about 5mm lower then a number #1 pad, but with out having to cut springs and still have some rubber cushion. Bascially the same as removing the pad all together, (Or just remove the pad if you prefer!).

There are may people including myself that have done this and with no problems. If you are thinking its bare metal on metal and are not sure, then remember that the other end on the bottom of the coil is exactly that, metal on metal but just with a slight groove to centralise it.

Good luck

tastoto

A1EK THX for the reply very helpfull eibach pro kit are rubbish im gonna go with h@r sport springs instead and thats the last of springs i ant gonna keep spending on springs

SoCalw11w123

weird...i really like my Eibach pro Kits

A1EK

Yeah I agree, its a pretty subjective comment to say that Eibachs are rubbish, because my ride has improved since I got them,? especially with a full load in my car, no bounce and no roll?

tastoto

yes dont get me wrong the ride is asowme with the eibach prokit but the car aint sitting level you are absolutly right it does improve them things but the car aint sitting level the way i want it.

bigwill

hi A1EK,
If you are thinking its bare metal on metal and are not sure, then remember that the other end on the bottom of the coil is exactly that, metal on metal but just with a slight groove to centralise it.
(quote)

i've just removed my pads on all four corners and the front left sits higher than the right or the right sits lower than the left. the difference of 6-7mm, is it because the springs are not sitting properly on the bottom end grooves or is it something else, like the springs are 10 years old or the i'm a fat *******. (btw its a right-hand drive)
can the grooves account for the 6mm difference or are the grooves not that deep. i had a mechanic do it so i wasnt there at the time, so didnt see what the grooves looked like.

thanks

will

rmclk

Hi guys. First time on here. I also have eibach pro kit on my 230k havent noticed much difference with the drop (front is still quite high), drive is good thow. Maybe its the engine sizes that make the difference?

A1EK

I have read a few others with this problem too, it seems that the front left or right can be different heights ( although I didn't have this problem ) What people do issimply raise the lower side with a pad. I think CLKMAN did this!

One thing you can check though is did you put the coils all back on the car the correct way up? I got one of my rear springs the wrong way round once and strangley the one upside down sat about 25mm (1") higher. Took me ages to figure it out too !

bigwill

great! didnt know the springs had a up/ down side. right now it's only 5-6mm off. so i'm assuming the springs are in the right side up, but i also read that the bottom spring housing has a groove for the coil to sit in, could that be the cause?? if that's the case is there a way of getting the spring to turn/rotate when it's on a hoiste without having to take out the spring. OR i'm i being too picky about 5mm.

A1EK

OK beleive me the springs make a difference in height to the car if they are upside down as the way the coil fits into the groove at the bottom on the arm will be different cuasing it to sit higher for some reason. If you look under your car at the springs, I think I remember that the with progressive springs (thats the type that have turns closer together at one end to be stiffer), should be at the top and the wider gap at the bottom end. Or Look at all your springs to see if the lettering printed on them are all the same way round.
As for turning the spring to locate it in its correct groove this should be done at the start when there is no pressure on them, you will need to clamp the springs as ifyour removing them to reduce the pressure and turn them if they are not sitting corectly.

tastoto

so if the lettering on the spring is upside down then the spring is inserted incorrectly is this true and if thw writing is facing the right way then its ok

A1EK

Yes I would say so. have a look it may be the quickestway to find out what your problem is.

bigwill

thanks,

will do next time i'm at the garage. btw how deep is this groove in the arm? and what does it look like.

bigwill

A1EK

its only very slight, barely a 1/4 of a turn footprint

bigwill

i just cut my front spring (and before anyone flames me or call me ghetto) i'll be getting new springs later and this is an [B]experiment[B]. i cut 1/4 coil from the bottom end. my question is does an old spring take time to settle like a new one would? cos after the cut i measured the gap and its still the same maybe 2mm max. is it because the piggy tail end is more flat so that 1/4 coil doesnt make much of a diff. and i would have to cut another 1/4 coil. anyone out there have done the same?

A1EK

Cutting the springs in my opinion is ok so long as you cut the same amount on each side, and you MUST get your alignment checked afterwards to save your tyres !
I would say that the old springs do not need time to settle, If you have cut half a turn off then you should see a noticeable difference, but if not then cut another quarter etc etc, until you get the desired height. I know garages that do this frequently as the cost of the original merc coil is not that much and you can always buy new ones if you want to return to the original spec.
The only concerning point I would mention is that if the coil has been shortened then over bumps or with weight in the car, you may or maynot find that the you ground out as lowering springs are designed to be progressively stiffer to compensate for this issue.

Good luck

bigwill

my personal experience: not a good idea to remove spring pads, someone on the forum said it acts as an insulator and he's right. once i put them back on it was smooth and quiet. another funny thing is the geometry of the spring/chasis, it's almost like a see-saw effect. i cut 1/2 coil in the rear and it actually raises the front slightly. i hear alot of good things in the forum about coilovers, i guess that's the way to to it, so you can fine tune it the way you want, it quite costly. from what i've read here aftermarket springs are not always what you'd expect and you end up having to do this or that (change pads or cutting coils) to it until you're happy.
anyone has used coilovers for sale??