VTsnow1

First i would like to thank every one reading this for your time. I am new to this great forum and have learned a lot browsing and looking for a solution to my problem. After searching for a while I decided to see if any one can help me with my unique problem. my 2001 clk 430 has been getting bad MPG and now is starting to hesitate if i step on it fast. I can see the cable is tight and moving as it should but there is a delay to the motor. Also today i was rolling up to a red light, it turned green and i pushed the gas.... nothing... nothing... wow, hold on! I ran the codes and read:

1) P0101- MAF or VAF A CKT Range/Performance

2) P0221-(pending) TPS/pedal position sensor/ switch B CKT Range/Performance.

I have seen many post on this topic but none refering to these codes on a clk 430. my questions are:

1) are these related as they are only inches apart and they both tripped at basicly the same time?
2) should i start with cleaning the MAF and the throttle body and could a dirty throttle body trip code p0221?
3) is there some thing else that could be causing this?
4) the 2001 clk 430s dont have a tps in the pedal right or wrong?

I have received quotes for a new throttle body from MB for $780 with a new TPS attached and i can get a reman MAF for $280. i would like to go that route only if there is nothing else that can be causing these problems. i don't want to be $1000 down and still have the same problems. sorry this post it so long but i am new to this and i want to be detailed. I can do the labor my self... Im no expert but I am a good DIYer.

I really want my CLK back to normal!

Thanks so much!

Ghostrider

How old is the MAF? If its less than a year I would clean it, if not I would just replace it. I'm not sure what the difference in effort would be. You can find out how to do either in the sticky thread W208 How To's.

VTsnow1

thanks for the fast reply, the car has 84,000 on it. i have had it for about a year or 10,000 miles. i took the sensor out and it looks new, does this matter or would it not look dirty. im going to clean it any way and see what happens. should i just clean the throttle body now too as i have every thing off any way? the throttle looks pretty dirty from what i can see.

VTsnow1

i guess to make this easy, does a p0101 code mean i need a new MAF and does a p0221 code mean i need a new throttle body, a new throttle position sensor or a pedal position sensor? could these mean some thing else? and is my only option going to be buying a throttle body with a throttle position sensor attached or has any one seen these separate?

Wow that might be more confusing than any thing. geezz...

onlinealias

Just replace the MAF, it takes about 15 minutes and 150 bucks...both codes will go away...there is likely nothing wrong with the throttle body motor or the position sensor. Worst case is you replace the MAF and the 221 remains, but again, it is not likely. This whole thing sounds like you might have an aftermarket cheapy MAF.

I had this discussion with another member a while ago (I think even over your issue)...and after thinking about it for a while I tend to agree with him, replacing the MAF will make all the codes go away and the car will drive like new.

dlbehrns

The element may look good in the sensor but don't waiste your time trying to clean it. get a new MAF from autohausaz.com and be done with it. If your car had regular service from a MB dealership by the previous owner you should be able to get a complete repair history by giving the dealership your VIN# and they will/should give you a printout and that should tell you if the MAF has been replaced before. if your car made it to 80K without ever having the MAF replaced I would be surprised. With less than 20K I put an after market filter in and the MAF went south a month later and I believe it was because the filter, which has a very lite oil coating, wept some of that coating (in hot weather) and that coating fouled the sensing element in the MAF. Call me crazy but it's just MHO.

VTsnow1

thanks for the info. ill order one right now and post the out come.

VTsnow1

ok, i ordered a new MAF for $147, great price from the site listed above. i put the old one back on so i can continue to drive it until i get the new one. i checked for vac leaks as well and used a mirror to check out the throttle body and all hoses and fitting in the tight areas. every thing looks good but i turned the key to the on position (not started) then pulled the throttle cable while i looked at the throttle body with a mirror to see if there was any lag in reaction times. it looks to be right on but it is only opening about an inch to 2 inches. is this normal or should i see it open a full 45 degrees when punched? any way i put it all back together and it still runs the same way after cleaning the MAF (not suprising).
after playing with it for a while i noticed it is only when i slam the accelerator down that it hicups and wants to stall, if i start pushing slowly then gun it, its perfect. is this some thing you would see with a bad MAF or more of a VAC leak i cant find or maybe some thing else? i should mention the car idles perfect.

one more thing, the MAF does not seem to fit as tight as i would like to see it fit. i mean it is tight but still moves a little when connected to the elbow and upper intake hose. is this normal or could there be a vac leak there that is trigering my codes and making it want to stall when accelerator is pushed hard from a stop?

VTsnow1

does any one know if there is a Accelerator module or pedal position sensor on a 2001 clk 430? the stealer is not any help as they don't care unless you over pay them for work. i feel this could be the hicup problem. does this sound plossible? i hope my new maf does fix this but im not so sure its going to. i don't want to wait for the MAF and then still have this problem when i can stay on it and get her fixed alot sooner. it seems like i am having a common problem that the slk's have with there accelerator pedal position sensor, they have it in the pedal but we don't... right?

VTsnow1

the thing that looks the oldest on the intake system is the air filters. i thought they were supposed to be green? they are white paper on my car. they also don't look black but they seem to be a little old. could they be clogged and this be throwing codes and making it act up on faster starts? i have never experienced problems with dirty air filters on other cars but then again this is a v8 MB. any thoughts?

dlbehrns

filters don't have a sensor. they won't throw a code. put the new MAF in when it comes and stop kavetching for now. BREEEEAAAATTTHHHH!!!!!

VTsnow1

ok, i will try... lol!

onlinealias

Heh, no kidding. The MAF is the problem. Put it in, it will be fixed. Your gyrating around it with wild speculation is just silly.

I can give you a much better theory for what is wrong. MAF wire gets dirty. MAF tries to burn it itself off. Dirt gets baked on, insulating MAF. MAF goes out of range for O2 sensors, again, because they are insulated by the dirt. Car backfires or otherwise bugs out, because MAF is out of range, throws throttle code cause of backfire or other weirdness.

Advice: Chill, replace MAF, be happy.

VIPclk320

That is exactly what happens, I made acustom cold air intake system and when i was testing out different filters i had to replace my MAF 3 times and i had a exact same symptoms. just make sure you don't step on the gas that hard just drive it very light untill you replace the MAf because under harsh acceleration the car is forced to suck more air and that can completely burn your MAf senso at which point you will be left in the street because the car will act carzy and keep in high rpm for a few seconds and then shut down and won't start again. just drive very light untill you change your MAf and when you get the MAF take off your airbox all the way at the end by the fire wall you will see the MAF, un clip the wire, remove the maf that sits in the plastix bracket attached to the engine, just make sure on the dirver side that plastic bracket that makes sure the MAF sits propper has a clip that holds a vacum hose make sure you move the hose out of the clip and don't yank it. and replace in and put back in the same order.

gregory13lil

FYI...I would be VERY careful about buying a new MAF from Ebay. It apparently wasnt a genuine BOSCH MAF and ended up causing me issues for 6 months and replacing other parts (oxgen sensors). I finally ended uo driving to the dealership and buying a factor MAF and VOILA problem and codes were gone and PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

Just FYI when you go buying!!

Greg

VTsnow1

Thanks to every one who helped me with this one!!

The Beast is back but...

I put in the new MAF from AUTOHAUZ.com and it cured the problems with the hesitation and hicups. it has much more power. i checked the codes to be safe and both the codes are gone but there is a new one

P0102- MAF bank A sensor low (pending)!!

Does this mean i got a bad MAF? or could it be there temp? i never reset the codes as autohauz told me i would not have to but i did try deleting it with the odbII and no luck!!

does any one have any ideas about what this could be?

Should i return the MAF for another one or wait and see if the code goes away?

VTsnow1

one more thing... it took me 2 weeks to get the MAF from Arizona to Vermont and who knows how long it will take if i return this one and wait for another...

onlinealias

Make sure the connections are good and clear the codes. Since it is pending, it may just be fleeting. If it comes back, then think about replacing the MAF. It probably won't though...

watson72!

Hello does anyone have an exhaust diagram for 2001 CL K4 30 Mercedes-Benz with the AMG package my codes are reading my O2 sensor front and back or out I want that diagram to make sure .we just replaced the EGR valve it's running better but we still have a code for the sensor can anyone help, and check engine light on. Plz help csnt pass emissions in AZ!!

jonUF02

Hope the MAF solved your issues and the code does not return. If you get a code for the TPS, then I have seen where the pedal sensor under the hood fails, it can be easily replaced. I would also suggest removing the throttle body and cleaning thoroughly, if not the entire intake manifold. I had one with a lot of carbon build up on the back side of the butterfly, causing some bad idle symptoms. Make sure you replace the O-ring behind the TB, maybe also the rubber rings on either side of the MAF. All can be ordered from same site.