Vipclk320 Front Strut Bar
01-18-2010, 03:39 PM
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
Vipclk320 Front Strut Bar
Hi Guys.
I bought Ash's front strut bar and cold air feed last week and had them fitted this afternoon.
Here are my views on the front strut bar.
Due to the postal service (USPS) having a poor response, Ash sent me out another parcel by UPS which came within a week rather than the month I had waited before!
I recieved the later design bar as Ash had redesigned the strut bar to a flatter one (which I think looks better) to make sure there aren't any clearance problems on OEM air boxes. The newer design also meant that I didn't have to relocate my throttle sensor. It's the same process as before of using the existing hole underneath the jump terminal (once that has been moved) and then drilling another hole on top of the other wheel well. You also have to cut a niche then flatten a small portion on the rubber and the wall surrounding the engine.
That's it. Job done! The jump terminal was pushed under the strut bar next to the throttle sensor and it sits nicely without any movement.
The bar isn't like the rear strut bar with is adjustable (also like the older design) but it is slightly adjustable in length, although I would have liked it an inch longer so more thread could be wound in.
I have a cab which scuttle shakes so I'm very happy with the added stiffness. The car turns tighter, sits flat when cornering and has more grip. An added bonus is the ride is smother. I haven't pushed the car hard yet as the snow is just melting, but you can feel the difference straight away. It felt weird at first with the car not moving and no rattles, but within a mile it felt natural.
I also have Ash's rear stut too, along with Eibach and Bilstein Pro springs, dampners and sway bars. They compliment each other nicely!
Anyone who doesn't have the strut bars should get both! Not only are they a saftey feature by making the car sit, ride and handle good, they amplify your driving experience so you get alot more driving pleasure.
Well done Ash!
Also a quick note on the cold air feed that replaces your OEM air box, that works great too. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a bit of induction noise and one or two more horses. But what a difference! The car feels so different, there's better throttle response and definately more power, maybe 10hp more. I can't hear a change in the induction but at higher speeds the car pulls harder and is more keener when driving. It still is wet but my ESP light flashes alot more!
I didn't install the complete tubing because my maf won't fit into the sillicon hose provided but once a replacement one arrives I'll complete the set up.
Here's some pics of the strut bar with the cold air feed.
I bought Ash's front strut bar and cold air feed last week and had them fitted this afternoon.
Here are my views on the front strut bar.
Due to the postal service (USPS) having a poor response, Ash sent me out another parcel by UPS which came within a week rather than the month I had waited before!
I recieved the later design bar as Ash had redesigned the strut bar to a flatter one (which I think looks better) to make sure there aren't any clearance problems on OEM air boxes. The newer design also meant that I didn't have to relocate my throttle sensor. It's the same process as before of using the existing hole underneath the jump terminal (once that has been moved) and then drilling another hole on top of the other wheel well. You also have to cut a niche then flatten a small portion on the rubber and the wall surrounding the engine.
That's it. Job done! The jump terminal was pushed under the strut bar next to the throttle sensor and it sits nicely without any movement.
The bar isn't like the rear strut bar with is adjustable (also like the older design) but it is slightly adjustable in length, although I would have liked it an inch longer so more thread could be wound in.
I have a cab which scuttle shakes so I'm very happy with the added stiffness. The car turns tighter, sits flat when cornering and has more grip. An added bonus is the ride is smother. I haven't pushed the car hard yet as the snow is just melting, but you can feel the difference straight away. It felt weird at first with the car not moving and no rattles, but within a mile it felt natural.
I also have Ash's rear stut too, along with Eibach and Bilstein Pro springs, dampners and sway bars. They compliment each other nicely!
Anyone who doesn't have the strut bars should get both! Not only are they a saftey feature by making the car sit, ride and handle good, they amplify your driving experience so you get alot more driving pleasure.
Well done Ash!
Also a quick note on the cold air feed that replaces your OEM air box, that works great too. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a bit of induction noise and one or two more horses. But what a difference! The car feels so different, there's better throttle response and definately more power, maybe 10hp more. I can't hear a change in the induction but at higher speeds the car pulls harder and is more keener when driving. It still is wet but my ESP light flashes alot more!
I didn't install the complete tubing because my maf won't fit into the sillicon hose provided but once a replacement one arrives I'll complete the set up.
Here's some pics of the strut bar with the cold air feed.
01-19-2010, 06:13 PM
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CLK55 / E350 Coupe
AMG's especially should have had these to begin with.
My question why didn't they? A big engine that handles like a boat = sport cruiser?
My question why didn't they? A big engine that handles like a boat = sport cruiser?
01-20-2010, 06:26 PM
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2002 CLK 55 AMG Coupé
Well, when new, the AMG CLK was breaking records without them ("fastest production Mercedes Benz ever sold") ... but in truth our cars tend to roll around and wallow when lashed hard on a track. Strut bars are a great idea. The CLK 63 Black Series also has them front and rear - to good effect.
Last edited by neilbo75; 01-20-2010 at 06:29 PM.
03-04-2010, 06:17 AM
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CLK 230k, CL500, BMW 740i
Rather than a strut bar, wouldn't an uprated anti-roll bar be better ? I'm thinking of getting a set for front and rear. Eibach make some. As do H&R. 28 mm thick for front and 18mm thick for rear. Your thoughts pls.
03-04-2010, 09:28 AM
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2000 CLK 430
Ash, is drilling a hole only needed for clk cab's? or will I have to do this with my coupe?
03-04-2010, 09:46 AM
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99CLK320,
FWIW front bar
I didn't drill a mounting hole for the bracket and spacer on the passenger side rather, I had a machine shop make two bolts that were longer than the originals so both mounting points are the same on both fender wells. either the bar or the bolts that screw into the ends of the bar could have been longer to facilitate the use of the existing hole on the passenger fender well.
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03-04-2010, 02:06 PM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have the Eibach sway bars front and rear and yes they help a little but NOT enough my car with me in it and set for daily driving is close to 4000lbs sways aren't going to be enough to make a difference these bars really do and i have a Cab so it helps a lot more!
03-05-2010, 09:25 AM
#9
i wanna do the same cold air set up...... should i just go to an auto parts store and just make my own or is their a complete system i can buy ...If i was to make my own... of coarse i would make it look like ures not just throw the intake on top and call it a day lol... like ive seen kids do.... anyways if theirs a kit already... please let me know thanks!!!
03-05-2010, 06:26 PM
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
If you look at my second picture you will see the jump terminal. Next to it is the clamp which the bar end goes into which sits on top of a tower (the third pic shows it best). The hole drilled is where the tower sits but look at the third pic. That shows the hole already there but where the strut bar is too short another was drilled for the tower next to it. Sorry I don't know the size as a garage did the work for me but it's the same size as the existing one.
Ps, Your engine compartment is the same as a cabs so you'll either have to get longer bolts so you don't have to drill or do as I did.
Last edited by Pauljay; 03-05-2010 at 06:28 PM.
03-05-2010, 06:35 PM
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
i wanna do the same cold air set up...... should i just go to an auto parts store and just make my own or is their a complete system i can buy ...If i was to make my own... of coarse i would make it look like ures not just throw the intake on top and call it a day lol... like ive seen kids do.... anyways if theirs a kit already... please let me know thanks!!!
There isn't a system you can buy for our cars to do a cold air feed. If you were to make your own it would be VERY costly putting the bends in the pipe (I think the pipe measures 3.5in).
It's cheaper in my oppinion to go with ASH's design. All the hard work has been done and it works well. But if your capable or have contacts I'm sure most designs can be bettered.
03-05-2010, 11:23 PM
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99CLK320,
most designs can be bettered
I'm no engineer but do have a lot of common sense and I can't tell you right now that I cannot see anything that can be done to improve Ash's intake design.
03-06-2010, 12:49 AM
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CLK W208
Thank you for the great comments guys. as we speak I have one set of intake for 320 and one for 430/55 left. the piping is a special order highgrade light weight aluminum with heat coating amd they are all mandrel bent meaning that the diameter of the outside and inside of the tube are the same on the bends which is very expensive because the 3' diameter carries all arround and has no flow restrictions around the bends. The pipes are special order and can't be found in auto part stores. if any one is intrested this is what i have left:
1 320 intake system
1 430/55 intake system
1 front strut bar
2 rear strut bars
i have completely stopped production and after these are gone that will be it. so if you are intrested this is your last chance because i will not accept orders after these are gone due to the fact that they are not cost effective to begin with and they will specially not be cost effective on individual orders.
attached is the pictures of the kit installed on the 430
Regards,
Vipclk320
1 320 intake system
1 430/55 intake system
1 front strut bar
2 rear strut bars
i have completely stopped production and after these are gone that will be it. so if you are intrested this is your last chance because i will not accept orders after these are gone due to the fact that they are not cost effective to begin with and they will specially not be cost effective on individual orders.
attached is the pictures of the kit installed on the 430
Regards,
Vipclk320
Last edited by VIPclk320; 03-06-2010 at 12:56 AM.
03-01-2011, 01:49 AM
#14
Hi wnycec.
If you look at my second picture you will see the jump terminal. Next to it is the clamp which the bar end goes into which sits on top of a tower (the third pic shows it best). The hole drilled is where the tower sits but look at the third pic. That shows the hole already there but where the strut bar is too short another was drilled for the tower next to it. Sorry I don't know the size as a garage did the work for me but it's the same size as the existing one.
Ps, Your engine compartment is the same as a cabs so you'll either have to get longer bolts so you don't have to drill or do as I did.
If you look at my second picture you will see the jump terminal. Next to it is the clamp which the bar end goes into which sits on top of a tower (the third pic shows it best). The hole drilled is where the tower sits but look at the third pic. That shows the hole already there but where the strut bar is too short another was drilled for the tower next to it. Sorry I don't know the size as a garage did the work for me but it's the same size as the existing one.
Ps, Your engine compartment is the same as a cabs so you'll either have to get longer bolts so you don't have to drill or do as I did.
I just purchased the newer version of VIP's struts from someone on the forum. I want to install them on my 2001 CLK 320 Cab. Unfortunately, I don't understand what you mean by the jump terminal. The longer bolts you are referring to, are they the ones that attach the bar to the black cleat or the bolt that attaches from the cleat to the car body? If I get longer bolts what holes do I use and so I don't have to drill and how would I install the rear strut bar?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
SirSwift93
03-03-2011, 07:19 PM
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
Hi SirSwift,
Congrats on your purchase! Once installed you'll love them.
The jump terminal is a small square black box with an 'X' on top. It's used to give power to your car when the battery is flat. Underneath it is a fixing hole. Unscrew the box and just move it to one side or tuck it away somewhere so it's not flapping loose.
The bolts I referred to are the ones that attach to the black clamp from the bar itself. On top of our wheel wells there are naturally occurring holes, the bar is too short to mount on both of them so you mount on one and drill a closer hole for the other. If you don't want to drill, find a shop which sells longer bolts.
The rear strut is simple to install. Behind the carpet you'll see the top of your rear struts which have 2 nuts. Undo them and place the clamp on top then replace the nuts. Make sure when installing to wind one of the adjusting theads in as they only adjust one way and once the bar is on will pull the top of one of the suspension struts inwards. It doesn't harm it but looks odd. I adjusted mine so the towers looked more even.
Once done go for a drive around some bends, take a wrench and an allen key (or screw driver to put in the hole for adjustment) and tighten the bar according to how sporty you want it. Don't over tighten the bar when it gets hard to turn or you'll get a very bouncy ride (a bit like a low rider on hydrolics).
Hope that helps!
Congrats on your purchase! Once installed you'll love them.
The jump terminal is a small square black box with an 'X' on top. It's used to give power to your car when the battery is flat. Underneath it is a fixing hole. Unscrew the box and just move it to one side or tuck it away somewhere so it's not flapping loose.
The bolts I referred to are the ones that attach to the black clamp from the bar itself. On top of our wheel wells there are naturally occurring holes, the bar is too short to mount on both of them so you mount on one and drill a closer hole for the other. If you don't want to drill, find a shop which sells longer bolts.
The rear strut is simple to install. Behind the carpet you'll see the top of your rear struts which have 2 nuts. Undo them and place the clamp on top then replace the nuts. Make sure when installing to wind one of the adjusting theads in as they only adjust one way and once the bar is on will pull the top of one of the suspension struts inwards. It doesn't harm it but looks odd. I adjusted mine so the towers looked more even.
Once done go for a drive around some bends, take a wrench and an allen key (or screw driver to put in the hole for adjustment) and tighten the bar according to how sporty you want it. Don't over tighten the bar when it gets hard to turn or you'll get a very bouncy ride (a bit like a low rider on hydrolics).
Hope that helps!
Last edited by Pauljay; 03-03-2011 at 07:23 PM.
03-03-2011, 09:21 PM
#16
Thanks Pauljay
My concerns are:
Each tower on the front bar (black powder coated brace) has the main bolt that has 3 washers stacked and then it goes through the black cleat and into the sheet metal. Why so many washers stacked in a row?
I am concerned about moving the throttle sensor one screw back. For one reason, it puts the cae on a kinked position and it's now mounted I'n one whole.
I would like to get longer clevis bolts so I don't have to drill new holes but my local speed shop does not have them. I will try grainger tomorrow.
If I use a shorter spacer, that sits between the cleat and sheet metal, do you think I could lower the front bar so I can make a hole below the rubber trim and have a nice clean seal? The way I have seen it I'n some pix is that the person just cut out a piece from the top and the rubber trim is not supported by any metal.
Do I need to remove the plastic fender cowls I'n order to thread the nuts onto the bolts that afix the front bar to the sheet metal?
The two bolts on the back struts; should I use any washers? I spoke with a tech from bilstein yesterday and he gave me the torque settings for the nuts.
Thanks
My concerns are:
Each tower on the front bar (black powder coated brace) has the main bolt that has 3 washers stacked and then it goes through the black cleat and into the sheet metal. Why so many washers stacked in a row?
I am concerned about moving the throttle sensor one screw back. For one reason, it puts the cae on a kinked position and it's now mounted I'n one whole.
I would like to get longer clevis bolts so I don't have to drill new holes but my local speed shop does not have them. I will try grainger tomorrow.
If I use a shorter spacer, that sits between the cleat and sheet metal, do you think I could lower the front bar so I can make a hole below the rubber trim and have a nice clean seal? The way I have seen it I'n some pix is that the person just cut out a piece from the top and the rubber trim is not supported by any metal.
Do I need to remove the plastic fender cowls I'n order to thread the nuts onto the bolts that afix the front bar to the sheet metal?
The two bolts on the back struts; should I use any washers? I spoke with a tech from bilstein yesterday and he gave me the torque settings for the nuts.
Thanks
Last edited by sirswift93; 03-03-2011 at 10:19 PM.
03-03-2011, 10:32 PM
#17
Hi Guys.
I bought Ash's front strut bar and cold air feed last week and had them fitted this afternoon.
Here are my views on the front strut bar.
Due to the postal service (USPS) having a poor response, Ash sent me out another parcel by UPS which came within a week rather than the month I had waited before!
I recieved the later design bar as Ash had redesigned the strut bar to a flatter one (which I think looks better) to make sure there aren't any clearance problems on OEM air boxes. The newer design also meant that I didn't have to relocate my throttle sensor. It's the same process as before of using the existing hole underneath the jump terminal (once that has been moved) and then drilling another hole on top of the other wheel well. You also have to cut a niche then flatten a small portion on the rubber and the wall surrounding the engine.
That's it. Job done! The jump terminal was pushed under the strut bar next to the throttle sensor and it sits nicely without any movement.
The bar isn't like the rear strut bar with is adjustable (also like the older design) but it is slightly adjustable in length, although I would have liked it an inch longer so more thread could be wound in.
I have a cab which scuttle shakes so I'm very happy with the added stiffness. The car turns tighter, sits flat when cornering and has more grip. An added bonus is the ride is smother. I haven't pushed the car hard yet as the snow is just melting, but you can feel the difference straight away. It felt weird at first with the car not moving and no rattles, but within a mile it felt natural.
I also have Ash's rear stut too, along with Eibach and Bilstein Pro springs, dampners and sway bars. They compliment each other nicely!
Anyone who doesn't have the strut bars should get both! Not only are they a saftey feature by making the car sit, ride and handle good, they amplify your driving experience so you get alot more driving pleasure.
Well done Ash!
Also a quick note on the cold air feed that replaces your OEM air box, that works great too. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a bit of induction noise and one or two more horses. But what a difference! The car feels so different, there's better throttle response and definately more power, maybe 10hp more. I can't hear a change in the induction but at higher speeds the car pulls harder and is more keener when driving. It still is wet but my ESP light flashes alot more!
I didn't install the complete tubing because my maf won't fit into the sillicon hose provided but once a replacement one arrives I'll complete the set up.
Here's some pics of the strut bar with the cold air feed.
I bought Ash's front strut bar and cold air feed last week and had them fitted this afternoon.
Here are my views on the front strut bar.
Due to the postal service (USPS) having a poor response, Ash sent me out another parcel by UPS which came within a week rather than the month I had waited before!
I recieved the later design bar as Ash had redesigned the strut bar to a flatter one (which I think looks better) to make sure there aren't any clearance problems on OEM air boxes. The newer design also meant that I didn't have to relocate my throttle sensor. It's the same process as before of using the existing hole underneath the jump terminal (once that has been moved) and then drilling another hole on top of the other wheel well. You also have to cut a niche then flatten a small portion on the rubber and the wall surrounding the engine.
That's it. Job done! The jump terminal was pushed under the strut bar next to the throttle sensor and it sits nicely without any movement.
The bar isn't like the rear strut bar with is adjustable (also like the older design) but it is slightly adjustable in length, although I would have liked it an inch longer so more thread could be wound in.
I have a cab which scuttle shakes so I'm very happy with the added stiffness. The car turns tighter, sits flat when cornering and has more grip. An added bonus is the ride is smother. I haven't pushed the car hard yet as the snow is just melting, but you can feel the difference straight away. It felt weird at first with the car not moving and no rattles, but within a mile it felt natural.
I also have Ash's rear stut too, along with Eibach and Bilstein Pro springs, dampners and sway bars. They compliment each other nicely!
Anyone who doesn't have the strut bars should get both! Not only are they a saftey feature by making the car sit, ride and handle good, they amplify your driving experience so you get alot more driving pleasure.
Well done Ash!
Also a quick note on the cold air feed that replaces your OEM air box, that works great too. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a bit of induction noise and one or two more horses. But what a difference! The car feels so different, there's better throttle response and definately more power, maybe 10hp more. I can't hear a change in the induction but at higher speeds the car pulls harder and is more keener when driving. It still is wet but my ESP light flashes alot more!
I didn't install the complete tubing because my maf won't fit into the sillicon hose provided but once a replacement one arrives I'll complete the set up.
Here's some pics of the strut bar with the cold air feed.
I noticed I'n your pix that the spacer is a solid piece of steel or aluminum billet. Did yours come that way? Did you have them fabricated or buy them from a speed shop? The ones that came with mine are rolled steel with an open seam and a nut half way up the bolt to support the spacer.
03-04-2011, 04:30 PM
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
Hi SirSwift.
It appears that you have an earlier version of the front strut bar. My one has a solid alluminium base. The base was changed I think because a few comments were made about having spacers welded in for rigidity. The end result is the same though so don't worry!
I cannot speak about moving the throttle sensor as I didn't have to. The installation of your bar is slightly different to mine but there have been no complaints about the process or end result.
I know members here who have the 1st bar like yours ( DropTop430, Dlbehrns, Williams and of course the fabricator VIP320clk) they would be able to fill you in on their impressions.
As for drilling through the fender liner, that's how mine was installed. The whole process took less than 10mins to install!
If you mount the bar lower I'm not sure if you would clear the cold air feed, or if you have the OEM filter. I guess you'll have to measure. Getting longer bolts would be ideal but as I said it's simpler to drill a hole through the fender well and lining then do up the clamp from underneath.
When cutting the rubber on top of the fire wall the cut to both is small (the width of the bar), look at my 3rd pic and you'll see it is quite neat. The rubber is supported by the rest of the fire wall except a piece taken out from below it and on top of the wall.
When installing the rear bar do the same as the nuts already there. The second nut acts as a lock to stop the first from moving so you don't need a spacer.
Ash, (VIPclk320) did a good job in making it simple to install both bars and cold air feed so you wont damage anything
It appears that you have an earlier version of the front strut bar. My one has a solid alluminium base. The base was changed I think because a few comments were made about having spacers welded in for rigidity. The end result is the same though so don't worry!
I cannot speak about moving the throttle sensor as I didn't have to. The installation of your bar is slightly different to mine but there have been no complaints about the process or end result.
I know members here who have the 1st bar like yours ( DropTop430, Dlbehrns, Williams and of course the fabricator VIP320clk) they would be able to fill you in on their impressions.
As for drilling through the fender liner, that's how mine was installed. The whole process took less than 10mins to install!
If you mount the bar lower I'm not sure if you would clear the cold air feed, or if you have the OEM filter. I guess you'll have to measure. Getting longer bolts would be ideal but as I said it's simpler to drill a hole through the fender well and lining then do up the clamp from underneath.
When cutting the rubber on top of the fire wall the cut to both is small (the width of the bar), look at my 3rd pic and you'll see it is quite neat. The rubber is supported by the rest of the fire wall except a piece taken out from below it and on top of the wall.
When installing the rear bar do the same as the nuts already there. The second nut acts as a lock to stop the first from moving so you don't need a spacer.
Ash, (VIPclk320) did a good job in making it simple to install both bars and cold air feed so you wont damage anything
03-04-2011, 05:32 PM
#19
Hi SirSwift.
It appears that you have an earlier version of the front strut bar. My one has a solid alluminium base. The base was changed I think because a few comments were made about having spacers welded in for rigidity. The end result is the same though so don't worry!
I cannot speak about moving the throttle sensor as I didn't have to. The installation of your bar is slightly different to mine but there have been no complaints about the process or end result.
I know members here who have the 1st bar like yours ( DropTop430, Dlbehrns, Williams and of course the fabricator VIP320clk) they would be able to fill you in on their impressions.
As for drilling through the fender liner, that's how mine was installed. The whole process took less than 10mins to install!
If you mount the bar lower I'm not sure if you would clear the cold air feed, or if you have the OEM filter. I guess you'll have to measure. Getting longer bolts would be ideal but as I said it's simpler to drill a hole through the fender well and lining then do up the clamp from underneath.
When cutting the rubber on top of the fire wall the cut to both is small (the width of the bar), look at my 3rd pic and you'll see it is quite neat. The rubber is supported by the rest of the fire wall except a piece taken out from below it and on top of the wall.
When installing the rear bar do the same as the nuts already there. The second nut acts as a lock to stop the first from moving so you don't need a spacer.
Ash, (VIPclk320) did a good job in making it simple to install both bars and cold air feed so you wont damage anything
It appears that you have an earlier version of the front strut bar. My one has a solid alluminium base. The base was changed I think because a few comments were made about having spacers welded in for rigidity. The end result is the same though so don't worry!
I cannot speak about moving the throttle sensor as I didn't have to. The installation of your bar is slightly different to mine but there have been no complaints about the process or end result.
I know members here who have the 1st bar like yours ( DropTop430, Dlbehrns, Williams and of course the fabricator VIP320clk) they would be able to fill you in on their impressions.
As for drilling through the fender liner, that's how mine was installed. The whole process took less than 10mins to install!
If you mount the bar lower I'm not sure if you would clear the cold air feed, or if you have the OEM filter. I guess you'll have to measure. Getting longer bolts would be ideal but as I said it's simpler to drill a hole through the fender well and lining then do up the clamp from underneath.
When cutting the rubber on top of the fire wall the cut to both is small (the width of the bar), look at my 3rd pic and you'll see it is quite neat. The rubber is supported by the rest of the fire wall except a piece taken out from below it and on top of the wall.
When installing the rear bar do the same as the nuts already there. The second nut acts as a lock to stop the first from moving so you don't need a spacer.
Ash, (VIPclk320) did a good job in making it simple to install both bars and cold air feed so you wont damage anything
I will go back to SK Speed Racing Equipment in Lindenhurst Long Island and have them make it out of solid Steel Billet. How tall are your aluminum mounts? I'll use that measurement and give it to SK to fabricate.
I see where you mounted the left side so it does not come in contact with the throttle sensor.
Thanks again for your help and time PaulJay!
SirSwift93
03-05-2011, 06:38 PM
#20
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
Hey no probs!
I didn't realise that there are 3 types of bar made! You must have the 2nd type then (hybrid of the first and last). Pm Ash (VIP320clk) to see if he's got any left over bits to save getting a new base made.
If not I'll post the height when I get it. My cars in a garage having some work done. I'll phone them on Monday and have them measure.
I didn't realise that there are 3 types of bar made! You must have the 2nd type then (hybrid of the first and last). Pm Ash (VIP320clk) to see if he's got any left over bits to save getting a new base made.
If not I'll post the height when I get it. My cars in a garage having some work done. I'll phone them on Monday and have them measure.
03-05-2011, 09:24 PM
#21
Hey no probs!
I didn't realise that there are 3 types of bar made! You must have the 2nd type then (hybrid of the first and last). Pm Ash (VIP320clk) to see if he's got any left over bits to save getting a new base made.
If not I'll post the height when I get it. My cars in a garage having some work done. I'll phone them on Monday and have them measure.
I didn't realise that there are 3 types of bar made! You must have the 2nd type then (hybrid of the first and last). Pm Ash (VIP320clk) to see if he's got any left over bits to save getting a new base made.
If not I'll post the height when I get it. My cars in a garage having some work done. I'll phone them on Monday and have them measure.
03-09-2011, 03:46 PM
#22
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
Hi Sirswift,
Sorry it's a little late I've had a few problems come up.
The garage measured the base height of the strut bars and they're 40mm.
Sorry it's a little late I've had a few problems come up.
The garage measured the base height of the strut bars and they're 40mm.
03-21-2011, 07:02 PM
#24
Hi Guys.
I bought Ash's front strut bar and cold air feed last week and had them fitted this afternoon.
Here are my views on the front strut bar.
Due to the postal service (USPS) having a poor response, Ash sent me out another parcel by UPS which came within a week rather than the month I had waited before!
I recieved the later design bar as Ash had redesigned the strut bar to a flatter one (which I think looks better) to make sure there aren't any clearance problems on OEM air boxes. The newer design also meant that I didn't have to relocate my throttle sensor. It's the same process as before of using the existing hole underneath the jump terminal (once that has been moved) and then drilling another hole on top of the other wheel well. You also have to cut a niche then flatten a small portion on the rubber and the wall surrounding the engine.
That's it. Job done! The jump terminal was pushed under the strut bar next to the throttle sensor and it sits nicely without any movement.
The bar isn't like the rear strut bar with is adjustable (also like the older design) but it is slightly adjustable in length, although I would have liked it an inch longer so more thread could be wound in.
I have a cab which scuttle shakes so I'm very happy with the added stiffness. The car turns tighter, sits flat when cornering and has more grip. An added bonus is the ride is smother. I haven't pushed the car hard yet as the snow is just melting, but you can feel the difference straight away. It felt weird at first with the car not moving and no rattles, but within a mile it felt natural.
I also have Ash's rear stut too, along with Eibach and Bilstein Pro springs, dampners and sway bars. They compliment each other nicely!
Anyone who doesn't have the strut bars should get both! Not only are they a saftey feature by making the car sit, ride and handle good, they amplify your driving experience so you get alot more driving pleasure.
Well done Ash!
Also a quick note on the cold air feed that replaces your OEM air box, that works great too. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a bit of induction noise and one or two more horses. But what a difference! The car feels so different, there's better throttle response and definately more power, maybe 10hp more. I can't hear a change in the induction but at higher speeds the car pulls harder and is more keener when driving. It still is wet but my ESP light flashes alot more!
I didn't install the complete tubing because my maf won't fit into the sillicon hose provided but once a replacement one arrives I'll complete the set up.
Here's some pics of the strut bar with the cold air feed.
I bought Ash's front strut bar and cold air feed last week and had them fitted this afternoon.
Here are my views on the front strut bar.
Due to the postal service (USPS) having a poor response, Ash sent me out another parcel by UPS which came within a week rather than the month I had waited before!
I recieved the later design bar as Ash had redesigned the strut bar to a flatter one (which I think looks better) to make sure there aren't any clearance problems on OEM air boxes. The newer design also meant that I didn't have to relocate my throttle sensor. It's the same process as before of using the existing hole underneath the jump terminal (once that has been moved) and then drilling another hole on top of the other wheel well. You also have to cut a niche then flatten a small portion on the rubber and the wall surrounding the engine.
That's it. Job done! The jump terminal was pushed under the strut bar next to the throttle sensor and it sits nicely without any movement.
The bar isn't like the rear strut bar with is adjustable (also like the older design) but it is slightly adjustable in length, although I would have liked it an inch longer so more thread could be wound in.
I have a cab which scuttle shakes so I'm very happy with the added stiffness. The car turns tighter, sits flat when cornering and has more grip. An added bonus is the ride is smother. I haven't pushed the car hard yet as the snow is just melting, but you can feel the difference straight away. It felt weird at first with the car not moving and no rattles, but within a mile it felt natural.
I also have Ash's rear stut too, along with Eibach and Bilstein Pro springs, dampners and sway bars. They compliment each other nicely!
Anyone who doesn't have the strut bars should get both! Not only are they a saftey feature by making the car sit, ride and handle good, they amplify your driving experience so you get alot more driving pleasure.
Well done Ash!
Also a quick note on the cold air feed that replaces your OEM air box, that works great too. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a bit of induction noise and one or two more horses. But what a difference! The car feels so different, there's better throttle response and definately more power, maybe 10hp more. I can't hear a change in the induction but at higher speeds the car pulls harder and is more keener when driving. It still is wet but my ESP light flashes alot more!
I didn't install the complete tubing because my maf won't fit into the sillicon hose provided but once a replacement one arrives I'll complete the set up.
Here's some pics of the strut bar with the cold air feed.
I was looking to install a set of sway bars to replace the stock version in my Cab. Can you tell me what part number you purchased and where? Are you happy with them? I was going to stick with the stock springs and may just go with Bilstein Sport shocks unless you can change my mind
Thanks!
SirSwift93
03-23-2011, 05:50 PM
#25
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'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
Hi SirSwift,
I'm sorry I cannot tell you part numbers as I took my car to a shop and they did the work. They are UK based, I'm sure if you rang the retailers over there you'd get a good responce.
The sway bars are very good (excellent with the top strut bars). Yes, I would change the standard suspension as it is too floaty and not sporty enough.
One thing though! The rear sway bar has to have the whole suspension assembly dropped so it will fit which bumps labour up.
Recently though (a year ago) I rang Bilstein and Eibach UK representatives to enquire about CLK55 AMG suspension to see if I could go a little stiffer for track work. I was told that they don't make AMG springs or struts. If I wanted firmer suspension I would have to get custom made springs or change the weight of the oil in the struts.
I'm sorry I cannot tell you part numbers as I took my car to a shop and they did the work. They are UK based, I'm sure if you rang the retailers over there you'd get a good responce.
The sway bars are very good (excellent with the top strut bars). Yes, I would change the standard suspension as it is too floaty and not sporty enough.
One thing though! The rear sway bar has to have the whole suspension assembly dropped so it will fit which bumps labour up.
Recently though (a year ago) I rang Bilstein and Eibach UK representatives to enquire about CLK55 AMG suspension to see if I could go a little stiffer for track work. I was told that they don't make AMG springs or struts. If I wanted firmer suspension I would have to get custom made springs or change the weight of the oil in the struts.
