rear axel question
#1
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CLK W208
rear axel question
just lifted the car today and noticed that both side axel boots are ripped and leaking, my car does make a clunk noise when i put it in reverse. now my question is do you replace the whole axel or just rebuild it? also is it a hard job? because iwas thinking of doing the job myself and also change the rear wheel bearings and the subframe mounts all at the same time. i figured i have to remove the bearings to get to the axels, is this correct? thank you very much.
p.s. where can i buy axels for a good price.
p.s. where can i buy axels for a good price.
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CLK W208
thanks brother, so the axels dont need to be changed? because that clunking noise, i'm not sure if its from the axel or if the two bolts on the DIFF needs to be tightened up. but again i'm not sure if axels go bad or not i have no knowledge when it comes to that or how to rebuild them.
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Not sure if u are referring to the cb boot??? the two rubber thing on each side. both of mine were cracked since its slammed and it was making noise seemed coming from the brakes.(which i was wrong)
i bought my both boots from dealer (part) since i had to get it done same day and my friend did it for me and everything came up to $400 and now runs well.
my bearing were loose and dry since the boot was broken and leaking and the noise came from the bearings
now its runs like brand new car
i bought my both boots from dealer (part) since i had to get it done same day and my friend did it for me and everything came up to $400 and now runs well.
my bearing were loose and dry since the boot was broken and leaking and the noise came from the bearings
now its runs like brand new car
Last edited by big_mike1979; 11-17-2010 at 11:09 PM.
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Not sure if u are referring to the cb boot??? the two rubber thing on each side. both of mine were cracked since its slammed and it was making noise seemed coming from the brakes.(which i was wrong)
i bought my both boots from dealer (part) since i had to get it done same day and my friend did it for me and everything came up to $400 and now runs well.
my bearing were loose and dry since the boot was broken and leaking and the noise came from the bearings
now its runs like brand new car
i bought my both boots from dealer (part) since i had to get it done same day and my friend did it for me and everything came up to $400 and now runs well.
my bearing were loose and dry since the boot was broken and leaking and the noise came from the bearings
now its runs like brand new car
#6
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hey ash.. yes its the 2 black rubber boot on each side of the axel.. as a matter of fact! i just call him and asked him. all what he did! he ordered the 2 rubber boots, regrease my axel and bearing and my car was done. again that was my prob. yours could be diff. he didn't change anything at all after he made sure bearings were good and nothing else was broken. my car made same noise in drive and reverse. it sounded like a metal grinding on and off but never stopped.
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thanks brother, i'll order the boots today and hopefully get the job done within the next two weeks as i have a tone of other stuff going on with the car but the body mods should be done by next week and my custom hood the week after and then tone of mechanical work. God Da...m its a never ending project.
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02 clk 55, 13 GL 450
are you refering to the two rubber pieces that are on each side of the diff? because those are the ones that are ripped on mine. did you also change the bearings? mine makes a clunk noise when i put in reverse which i think the bolts on my diff may be loose. did you have to buy anyother parts or just the rubber boots and re-greese the axels?
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thanks brother, i'll order the boots today and hopefully get the job done within the next two weeks as i have a tone of other stuff going on with the car but the body mods should be done by next week and my custom hood the week after and then tone of mechanical work. God Da...m its a never ending project.
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that is what he told me excatly and did not let me leave his shop without leaving my car at his shop . (same day)
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CLK W208
the flex dic was changed last year and is in good condition, i get the clunk mostly when i put in reverse and sometimes when i put in drive from reverse and i get a very violent kick, i was reading up on it and another member had something similar and said that it was the two bolts that tie the diffrential down that were loose and he tightened them up and no problems. so i'm gonna do the axel boots but i wasnt sure if the axels could just be cleaned, re-greesed and new boots or i have to get new axels. i'm also doing my rear wheel bearing and i'm gonna change the subframe mounts as well since i'm back there already. specially because i'm doing the 55 transplant and want to keep my 320 Diff might as well beef everything up back there.by the way how hard is the rear wheel bearing job and the sub frame mounts?
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2000 CLK430
the flex dic was changed last year and is in good condition, i get the clunk mostly when i put in reverse and sometimes when i put in drive from reverse and i get a very violent kick, i was reading up on it and another member had something similar and said that it was the two bolts that tie the diffrential down that were loose and he tightened them up and no problems. so i'm gonna do the axel boots but i wasnt sure if the axels could just be cleaned, re-greesed and new boots or i have to get new axels. i'm also doing my rear wheel bearing and i'm gonna change the subframe mounts as well since i'm back there already. specially because i'm doing the 55 transplant and want to keep my 320 Diff might as well beef everything up back there.by the way how hard is the rear wheel bearing job and the sub frame mounts?
ASH..that was me that had the problem with the clunking metal sound everytime I put the car in reverse and then it got worse and made the noise when I placed it in drive. My problem was the mounts that hold the diff from the rear of the car were loose somehow. All I did was tighten them down and the noise was gone. The way I figured it out was that I placed the car on a lift and had a friend step on the brake and put the car in reverse while on the lift and I heard the noise coming from the diff. I first thought that my diff was dying but then noticed that the noise was coming from that mount that looks like a small hotel bell. It hooks up to the frame in the rear and there are 2 of them. I tightened it down and never had an issue with it since. Maybe the rubber mounts inside wore down or something but it fixed the noise completely.
Greg
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CLK W208
ASH..that was me that had the problem with the clunking metal sound everytime I put the car in reverse and then it got worse and made the noise when I placed it in drive. My problem was the mounts that hold the diff from the rear of the car were loose somehow. All I did was tighten them down and the noise was gone. The way I figured it out was that I placed the car on a lift and had a friend step on the brake and put the car in reverse while on the lift and I heard the noise coming from the diff. I first thought that my diff was dying but then noticed that the noise was coming from that mount that looks like a small hotel bell. It hooks up to the frame in the rear and there are 2 of them. I tightened it down and never had an issue with it since. Maybe the rubber mounts inside wore down or something but it fixed the noise completely.
Greg
Greg