Front Camber Bolt mod?
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 524
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From: Los Angeles
2013 FIAT Abarth 500
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...archCatalogOEM
Used 202 330 0118 and the part came up.
I don't know if there's a difference between 000 330 0018 or anything, but I've called up two sources and both said that the 202 number is the correct one for 208s.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 29
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From: Est
CLK
After I installed the camber bolts, I adjusted them at the max and ended with -2,5 camber each side. If i want to dial out more, I will modify the control arm attachment. Not a big job for me.
Personally I like this mild -2,5 camber look and I´m keeping it as it is right now.
The aligment chop guy fiddled with toe or smthing... and now I dont have this annoying inner tire wear anymore.
At the back I have custom made adjustable camber arms, and they do the trick perfectly.
Last edited by allan1; Jan 27, 2011 at 03:38 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 565
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From: the OC, So Cal
2000 CLK 320
how many bolts for the FRONT CONTROL ARM for EACH SIDE?
Hi everyone. I've read all the posts and did the 'search' and information seems to be all over the place.
When doing ONLY the front lower control arms, do you need 1 camber bolt per side? And if so, does it go on the 'rear bolt of the front lower control arm' or the 'front bolt of the front lower control arm' (by front, meaning the bolt closest to the front of the car). See pic.
And from one post I've read, the bolt should be facing the front of the car. Thanks for any help you can provide.
When doing ONLY the front lower control arms, do you need 1 camber bolt per side? And if so, does it go on the 'rear bolt of the front lower control arm' or the 'front bolt of the front lower control arm' (by front, meaning the bolt closest to the front of the car). See pic.
And from one post I've read, the bolt should be facing the front of the car. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
Hi everyone. I've read all the posts and did the 'search' and information seems to be all over the place.
When doing ONLY the front lower control arms, do you need 1 camber bolt per side? And if so, does it go on the 'rear bolt of the front lower control arm' or the 'front bolt of the front lower control arm' (by front, meaning the bolt closest to the front of the car). See pic.
And from one post I've read, the bolt should be facing the front of the car. Thanks for any help you can provide.
When doing ONLY the front lower control arms, do you need 1 camber bolt per side? And if so, does it go on the 'rear bolt of the front lower control arm' or the 'front bolt of the front lower control arm' (by front, meaning the bolt closest to the front of the car). See pic.
And from one post I've read, the bolt should be facing the front of the car. Thanks for any help you can provide.
You will need two bolts for each arm. If you only replace the back of the arm or front, you will be adjusting the toe-on and toe-out.
The bolts should therefore be changed as a pair for each side, one top when doing this is to use a 'ratchet-strap' to pull the arms in, this will make lining up the bolts holes much easier.
When you put the bolts in they go in from the front to the back (nut towards rear). The groove in your new cambre bolts fit into the grove in the cars chasis bolt hole and this action allows the arm to move inwards at the bottom thus reducing your negative cambre by up to 3 degress. The washer that is supplied also has a grove notch that is raised and this fits into the notch similar to the bolts.
Hope you understand, its not tricky once you see it.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 565
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From: the OC, So Cal
2000 CLK 320
Thanks! It does need 2 bolts per side and I just brought it in the shop to do it. And 2 bolts per side does adjust only by 0.3 degrees.
The issue I'm having now is, based on the alignment specs from 3 years ago, I went from -1.2 to -1.4 (which is still within range so I'm ok with that) for the left wheel, and from -2.4 to -2.1 for the right wheel.
I don't mind the left wheel too much as its within range but I want the right wheel to be fixed. Is there any reason why the right wheel is so much different from the left wheel? Could it be the bushings have gone bad? Maybe the spring pad is not on correctly on the right side?
The issue I'm having now is, based on the alignment specs from 3 years ago, I went from -1.2 to -1.4 (which is still within range so I'm ok with that) for the left wheel, and from -2.4 to -2.1 for the right wheel.
I don't mind the left wheel too much as its within range but I want the right wheel to be fixed. Is there any reason why the right wheel is so much different from the left wheel? Could it be the bushings have gone bad? Maybe the spring pad is not on correctly on the right side?
