CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Bolts, when replacing lower control arms, what's the story ?

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Old May 9, 2011 | 02:08 AM
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2000 CLK430 Cabriolet
Bolts, when replacing lower control arms, what's the story ?

Bolts, when replacing lower control arms, what's the story ?

Replacing the original LCA's with new, stock. What is this about replacing the bolts on the LCA's ? Seems I am not supposed to use the original bolts, but instead replace them with new camber bolts. Why can't I use the take off bolts on the new LCA ? I don't get it. Can someone clear this up ?

Thanks
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Old May 9, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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99CLK320,
There are two control arms bolts that you can get from the dealership that allow you to adjust camber by + or - 3degrees. If you have lowered your car with springs like H&R, Vogtland and Eibach, you may be experiencing inside tire wear due to increased negative camber. If you haven't lowered you car never mind. Go with the stock bolts. That takes care of the front end but the rear need adjustables camber arms which ghostrider of this forum has fabricated and may still have some for sale. There are other other manufacturers, like Kmack to name only one, out there that provide kits to do the same.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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From: Amber waves of grain.
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That's good info.
No lowering, or any mods.
Replacing stock front lousy failed MB LCA w/ aftermarket,
so will stay w/ same un-cambered bolts.

Just to be clear on rear,
do you need the adjustable camber arms on rear, when just replacing to stock ?

Again, thanks.

Last edited by Pancho; May 10, 2011 at 08:54 AM.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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You can use eccentric bolts or non-eccentric bolts. Eccentric bolts will allow ~0.5 degrees of fixed adjustment positive or negative. Tech sheet says they allow 30 minutes of max/min adjustment, which is definitely not equal to +/- 3 degrees. Only KMAC kits can achieve this range of adjustment.

No you don't need adjustable rear arms if you're at stock height, as your camber is preset from the factory using the non-adjustable arms supplied. Most people with extreme drops require these to maintain decent tire wear or tweak settings on the track but as I'm guessing neither apply to you, just get the OEM camber struts.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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From: Amber waves of grain.
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Originally Posted by twinsin
You can use eccentric bolts or non-eccentric bolts. Eccentric bolts will allow ~0.5 degrees of fixed adjustment positive or negative. Tech sheet says they allow 30 minutes of max/min adjustment, which is definitely not equal to +/- 3 degrees. Only KMAC kits can achieve this range of adjustment.

No you don't need adjustable rear arms if you're at stock height, as your camber is preset from the factory using the non-adjustable arms supplied. Most people with extreme drops require these to maintain decent tire wear or tweak settings on the track but as I'm guessing neither apply to you, just get the OEM camber struts.

Thanks for the info, but, What do you mean by, "struts" ?
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Pancho
Thanks for the info, but, What do you mean by, "struts" ?
The arm that attaches to the knuckle and keeps the top of the wheel at it's static vertical state, thus not allowing you to adjust camber.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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From: Amber waves of grain.
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet
Originally Posted by twinsin
The arm that attaches to the knuckle and keeps the top of the wheel at it's static vertical state, thus not allowing you to adjust camber.
No strut on this one. There are upper and lower control arms that attach to the knuckle. The upper, directly. The lower, via the ball joint.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Schematic Front Suspension.pdf (34.4 KB, 611 views)

Last edited by Pancho; Jun 2, 2011 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:22 AM
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I have just changed my Lower Control arm bolts to the Mercedes Eccentric bolts and have striaghtened up my negative camber. The movement on these bolts is very sensitive and 1 or 2mm difference can throw out your alignment, as the eccentric only give about a 4mm movement which is enough to change the camber by+ / - 3 degress!
So my advise is get your alignment checked when you fit the new arms.
Good luck
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Pancho
No strut on this one. There are upper and lower control arms that attach to the knuckle. The upper, directly. The lower, via the ball joint.
Well, I didn't mean strut as in shock+spring assembly, but more as in something that resists legnthwise compression...which is what the upper and lower arms do.

Damn terminology.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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From: Amber waves of grain.
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Originally Posted by twinsin
Well, I didn't mean strut as in shock+spring assembly, but more as in something that resists legnthwise compression...which is what the upper and lower arms do.

Damn terminology.
Got it. Thanks
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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From: Amber waves of grain.
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Originally Posted by A1EK
I have just changed my Lower Control arm bolts to the Mercedes Eccentric bolts and have striaghtened up my negative camber. The movement on these bolts is very sensitive and 1 or 2mm difference can throw out your alignment, as the eccentric only give about a 4mm movement which is enough to change the camber by+ / - 3 degress!
So my advise is get your alignment checked when you fit the new arms.
Good luck
Stock config arms, springs and shocks. No concentric bolts. According to everything I've read on this, no alignment necessary. The MB materials say no alignment needed if changing out stock LCA's
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Pancho
Stock config arms, springs and shocks. No concentric bolts. According to everything I've read on this, no alignment necessary. The MB materials say no alignment needed if changing out stock LCA's
While I usually will realign after touching most anything suspension related, if the LCAs are the same length, the specs shouldn't change and an alignment not completely necessitated.
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