LAWYER2

99 320 Cabrio
Hey guys, Air starts off luke cold from a cold start then progressively gets warmer. EC is not on and from what I've searched from the numerous A/C threads that are out there I should be diagnosing my issue from what the Rest. test results are, and NOT just randomly adding r134. However I'm still confused as to what these results tell me. Specifically the freon level which is at 13 (which according to http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/acdiag.html sounds normal)



1 - 111
2 - 124
3 - 98
4 - 102
5 - 94
6 - 210
7 - 13
8 - 122
. . .
10 -5.1
20 -0
21 -6
22 -0
23 -0
24 -13.8
40 -8
41 -5
42 -248
43 -158

. . . Do these numbers point to anything? I'd like to know if it's something I can tackle myself before taking it to indy/dealer

LAWYER2

bump. It's 110 out today

MarcusF

Does the AC have any error codes? If you're not sure how to dump the error codes read all this, and then do it -

Turn the ignition on.

You now have 20 seconds to

1. Turn the left side temperature up to HI
2. Turn the right side temperature down to LO.
3. Press and hold both the EC and REST buttons simultaneously for at least five seconds.
4. The screen will now go blank.

Load the first code by pressing the right side “AUTO” button. Write it down. Press it again, write down the next one. Do that until you get all the codes. Post them. I've spent a lot of time in Gilbert. Summer in AZ without AC is NOT doable.

LAWYER2

*edit* ok I think I did it right this time. The screen went blank then an E came up. I hit the right auto button, the blower came on briefly and then E-FF showed. That was it no matter how many times I pressed it again
Disregard below


If I'm doing this correctly it says:
43-158
42-248
41-5
40-8
24-12.0
23-0
22-0
21-0
20-0
10-1.4
9-0
8-94
7-8
6-97
5-95
4-96
3-96
2-95
1-261

LAWYER2

FYI the first set of numbers are after driving for 30 minutes on a hot day:

1 - 111
2 - 124
3 - 98
4 - 102
5 - 94
6 - 210
7 - 13
8 - 122
. . .
10 -5.1
20 -0
21 -6
22 -0
23 -0
24 -13.8
40 -8
41 -5
42 -248
43 -158

The second set represent a cold start:

43-158
42-248
41-5
40-8
24-12.0
23-0
22-0
21-0
20-0
10-1.4
9-0
8-94
7-8
6-97
5-95
4-96
3-96
2-95
1-261

MarcusF

Depending on the software version, some cars have D-FF, others have E-FF, but in either case -FF means no error codes.

If you stand in front of the car, with the car running, and the AC off, and then have someone turn the AC on, can you see the compressor engage?

LAWYER2

Yes I can "feel" and hear the compressor engage. The RPM's and idle adjust when the A/C is turned on

Shadow5501

OK, here we go:

#1 is the car interior temperature sensor
#2 is the exterior temperature sensor
#3 & 4 are the right/left heater core temperature sensors
#5 is the evaporator temperature sensor
#6 is the engine coolant temperature
#7 is the high-side refrigerant pressure
#8 is the high side refrigerant temperature

The values for #7 & 8 look reasonable - you have a high side pressure of ~195PSI. I would not add any refrigerant, the car does not appear to be low on R134a.

The only value that looks wrong is #5 - the evaporator is not getting cold, which is why you are not happy. My guess is you have a failed expansion valve or a blockage on the high side somewhere. You'll need to have someone with knowledge and a set of guages evaluate it to nail down the specific problem.

Best of luck.

LAWYER2

Thanks for the response Shadow. Would it be recommendable to go to an indy MB mechanic or will any A/C specialist do?

Shadow5501

I think in this case you can use a good a/c shop, doesn't need to be an MB specialist.

LAWYER2

took it to my Mechanic who in turn said that the compressor is not moving the guages at all, and that I more than likely need a new compressor and expansion valve. Quoted $1200 to replace.

Is this something I can do myself, should I look for a used compressor or just buy a new one? Any idea where to begin??

I see a used compressor on Ebay for $120, but Mechanic will not install customer parts (for insurance reason so-he-says)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A-C-A...Q5fAccessories

MarcusF

Sorry to hear about that. At Autohaus, a new compressor is $400. The expansion valve is about $40. Pelican doesn't list it. I know Pelican reads the forums, maybe they'll update the site (adding CLK430s to go with 55s and show the compressor ). Rock Auto has compressors for $290 & $440. The expansion valve is about $40. I only listed the Denso parts because I think they are the OEM. After you install them, an AC shop will have to vacuum the system (this removes all moisture and confirms there are no leaks) and then fill it. If you charge it without vacuuming the system, there is a very good chance you'll get ice in the system and ruin the new compressor.

LAWYER2

Thanks!! Would you NOT recommend installing a used one?

LAWYER2

Nvmd, I just went ahead and bought the new Denso compressor and valve from RockAuto. Great prices!

Is there a DIY tutorial floating around on how to swap it out, or is really easy to figure out?

achoren

Marcus or Shadow5501, any input on my situation:

My A/C functionally seems to go through the motions just fine (fan, hot air okay, etc)...just cannot crank out the cold air. I ran the above diagnostics and was wondering if I can get an eye/opinion on the direction to look. This was done on an 80 degree F 85% humidity Chicago day:

Cold Start:
43-14
42-232
41-5
40-8
24-14.3
23-0
22-0
21-6
20-0
10-.8
9-1
8-94
7-7
6-133
5-101
4-114
3-127
2-.94
1-102

After a 1 hour commute:
43-14
42-232
41-5
40-8
24-13.4
23-0
22-0
21-6
20-0
10-.8
9-2
8-108
7-8
6-201
5-95
4-114
3-150
2-119
1-92

Any help for the direction I should be looking in would be greatly appreciated!!!

LAWYER2

Since your #7 freon levels don't seem to be fluctuating it might mean you need to add Freon. But I'm sure one of the experts would know waaaay more than I.
Having no A/C is absolutely brutal! Temps will be from 113 to 116 all week!

MarcusF

Tru, here are some instructions from the Star Classic DVD.








achoren, is the EC light on?

achoren

Yep, hit the EC button; turns on okay. I did just buy the car a few months ago with a slow to arrive summer. Let me know if there's something I should be doing or setting (though while I'm fairly handy with cars, I figured A/C controls shouldn't be all that difficult!).

MarcusF

What I mean is, when the vents are blowing less than ice cold air, is the light on the EC button illuminated? If that light is on, the AC compressor is not engaging. The dash is simply blowing vent air. If the light is off, the compressor is engaging. Based on your numbers, I'm wondering if the compressor is engaging. Does the light turn off?

Shadow5501

I can tell you your compressor isn't working - it's either not turning on, or if it is, it's not doing any compressing. Item #7 is the high side pressure (in bars) in the a/c system. It should be in the teens when operating. A 7 or 8 is normal for the system at rest on warm day.

From the numbers it's not possible to tell whether the a/c compressor is not being told to turn on by the climate control system, or whether the comrpressor is receiving the run signal but is broken. You'll need a competent mechanic to make that determination.

Looks like your duo-valve is leaky too...

LAWYER2

You guys are Awesome, I wish I could give out Gold-Stars and smiley stickers over the internet!! lol

LAWYER2

New compressor, expansion valve, receiver/dryer valve and $800 (parts & labor), and I'm back in business blowing ice COLD air! I had to resort to taking public transportation rather than deal with NO A/C in a Arizona Summer until now!

Vincent

AC stopped working 3 weeks ago. The readings are:
1 - 36
2 - 52
3 - 38
4 - 38/39 fluating
5 - 37
6 - 96
7 - 8
8 - 39

Error code is Eb1419 which points to the electromagnetic clutch

Do I need a new compressor, evaporator sensor or cleaning the duovalves ?

Thanks

tmounib

Hello everyone
I did the diagnostic and was able to pull the error codes,, there were too many,, I got confused at first, put my head back together and CLEARED all codes, ran the car (1996 E320) for few days then ran the diagnostic again and this time I got back one code, which was Eb1 419 = compressor clutch is bad,, very simple process,, now I know I need new compressor but we are in mid September now,, I will wait til next year, Good luck to you all

unlukky

Hello all,
This post is a little old, but hopefully not dormant.

I did the AC diagnostic and came up with 2 codes: "eb1 227" and "eb1 416". Does anyone have any idea where I can decipher these?

My AC went from normal, to bad, to worse, to hot in the matter of about 2 weeks. #7 on the panel is reading approx 8 indicating possible low freon. So, I went to charge it only finding out that, according to the guage, I am good to go. I still have nothing, but hot air through the vents and my AC compressor doesnt appear to be engaging. I am not sure if it is the compressor itself or the "command" signal TO the compressor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

John