CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

AC problem: Takes a while to blow cold

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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #1  
falls profet's Avatar
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AC problem: Takes a while to blow cold

Been a while once again, fellas...

So I've been reading a lot of the AC threads lately and I can't seem to figure out what is going on. I "think" I just need to add some R134 to the system, and I haven't run the codes just yet, but I just wanted to see if any of you have had this problem as well; here's the issue:

When I start my car whether it be in the morning, first thing, or throughout the day, the AC starts off my blowing (not really warm) but semi-cool air.

After driving the car around for say...20 min, it then begins to blow ice cold. This is a consistent problem, and has been doing it for about 3-4 weeks. Every time, it just takes forever to really get cold.

Could it be that the compressor is going out? Or am I right with needing to add some R134? I know I need to pull the codes, and I'll do so when I get home tonight to the car.

Thanks very much for any help, guys.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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From: upper west side, manhattan, new york
1999 CLK 320 Coupe
I'm going to be interested in the feedback on this thread because I just replaced the blower and regulator, both fried due to a water leak, and noticed the same symptoms you describe (takes awhile to get cold, and actually never gets "ice" cold). I'm not really sure what "normal" is but on the last 90 degree day the car never really got cold while blasting the A/C.

I ran the built-in diagnostic that displays codes on the panel (hold down REST for a few seconds) and the freon pressure indicated a range from 7-10, mostly hovering around 7-8. I've never had R134 added and have no idea if the one previous owner did.

How tricky is it to replace the R134 ourselves?
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 05:26 PM
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2013 FIAT Abarth 500
Originally Posted by brasil
I'm going to be interested in the feedback on this thread because I just replaced the blower and regulator, both fried due to a water leak, and noticed the same symptoms you describe (takes awhile to get cold, and actually never gets "ice" cold). I'm not really sure what "normal" is but on the last 90 degree day the car never really got cold while blasting the A/C.

I ran the built-in diagnostic that displays codes on the panel (hold down REST for a few seconds) and the freon pressure indicated a range from 7-10, mostly hovering around 7-8. I've never had R134 added and have no idea if the one previous owner did.

How tricky is it to replace the R134 ourselves?
Your freon pressure is good. The fact that the AC does blow cold air at some point most likely means it's something else (not really an HVAC person so I can't help here).

Recharging R134 isn't too hard from what I've read. Do a search and you'll find the answer.
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Old May 18, 2022 | 03:09 PM
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CLA 250
Originally Posted by brasil
I'm going to be interested in the feedback on this thread because I just replaced the blower and regulator, both fried due to a water leak, and noticed the same symptoms you describe (takes awhile to get cold, and actually never gets "ice" cold). I'm not really sure what "normal" is but on the last 90 degree day the car never really got cold while blasting the A/C.

I ran the built-in diagnostic that displays codes on the panel (hold down REST for a few seconds) and the freon pressure indicated a range from 7-10, mostly hovering around 7-8. I've never had R134 added and have no idea if the one previous owner did.

How tricky is it to replace the R134 ourselves?
Why did you have to change the blower and the regulator? Is it possible to only change the blower like demonstrated in this video?
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Old May 18, 2022 | 03:11 PM
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CLA 250
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Old May 18, 2022 | 03:37 PM
  #6  
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From: upper west side, manhattan, new york
1999 CLK 320 Coupe
Ok, so this is an 11 year old thread, so I don't remember the troubleshooting steps I performed. Good news is I still own my CLK and as of 2022 it only has 125K miles on it. Both of your YouTube links are showing as "video unavailable," but if the regulator is fine then I would assume you could just replace the blower motor. I think both parts came together, which might be why I replaced both.

Last edited by brasil; May 19, 2022 at 10:47 AM.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 10:22 AM
  #7  
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From: SDCA
W208 CLK320
I am actually going through this issue now. I actually took the car in to get R134 refill and found out the car had a cascading multitude of issues. I had done the Freon refill at home earlier in the year but the home refill did not keep the cold air performance for long, so with the hot Socal weather on the horizon I wanted to get the AC cold again before summer arrived and performing at peak. So I am currently in the midst of having to replace a bad condenser which had two leaks, the leaks of course then contributed to the demise of my compressor since the pressures are low on the high compression side. After system was refilled and troubleshoot the problem was diagnosed by tech at the local repair shop I had the shop drain the Freon. Anyhow, replacing the condenser, compressor, the dryer assembly and all the green O-rings associated and then going to have the Freon refilled at my local independent MB shop. All parts are original from 2001 (build date of car). Car is now at 208,000 miles under it's odometer, so I guess in one aspect it's a great testament to the quality of the parts used back then being that they even lasted this long. I am replacing all the parts myself and sourcing them at a better cost then the independent shop or the dealer. Buying original equipment parts (Denson & Behr) the makers of the stuff before Mercedes slaps their label and price hike on them.

Last edited by device2; May 19, 2022 at 12:29 PM.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 11:53 AM
  #8  
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From: North of Boston
OK...just to add something...if you have any error codes on the diagnostics (AC codes) you must clear them or the compressor will stay inactive as to not damage it. Adding the refrigerant is easy...get a kit at any auto supply place. You'll be unable to do any damage by overfilling because the pressures in the cans are lower than professional rechargers. Run the can until it's frosty on the outside of the can...at that point it should be ok to get cool air.
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