CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
gorgerider's Avatar
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From: Eastern Washington State
2000 clk 320 cabriolet
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My CLK320 Cab has been throwing electrical temper tantrums lately. Key works to open and lock doors (not the key battery or function). Car seems to recognize the key in the ignition because all the dash lights light up and fans blow and radios work in position 1 and 2. Windows work when in position 2. But, on an intermittent basis, when turning the key over to position 3, nothing happens. No problem with the gear shifter. Sometimes on the thrid or fourth try, it will engage the starter. The other day, it took over an hour to get it to crank. When it does crank, the car runs normally and without any problems.

Yesterday, my indy wrench wanted to take a look and see if there were any codes. The only code was one for the brake system. No lights on the dashboard or other indicators. No indication that there was any problem with the key. It did indicate that the ignition switch had been replaced and that I was holding key number 4.

Of course, it operated perfectly the whole day - I assume because it knew it was going to the mechanic and it decided to be on its best behavior.

Any thoughts?

Last edited by gorgerider; Sep 29, 2011 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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Brilliant Silver CLK 320
Have you checked your car's battery?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 11:46 AM
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I would say if it's not the battery, then take a look at the starter -- it may be going bad.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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gorgerider's Avatar
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From: Eastern Washington State
2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Batt is strong and has never had a problem or gone dead since new (1.5 years ago).

I spoke with a service manager at a dealership about this. He wanted to have me hook up a wire to the starter solenoid to see if the solenoid was getting power from the ignition when it failed to start. I looked at the instructions for removing the starter and was surprised to learn that I would have to remove the right engine mount. And to remove the right engine mount, I would have to remove both the steering drag link and the steering damper.

Jeezus. To pull a starter I need to schedule a new alignment.

If I just wanted to pull the starter forward and roll it to where I could get at the solenoid and wire connections, I don't think I have enough room to get a wrench on the upper starter bolt. I'd probably end up cutting my hands all up on the motor mount and exhaust shields anyway.

The good (for me, anyway) news is that my indy says it's likely not the starter and that would be the last place to look. I call him today to see what he has been able to make of the brake system code he found on the computer the other day.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 02:16 AM
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Search for Staplegun's starter thread in the C43 section. I supplied him with the WIS instructions, but he was able to skip most of it. He documented what was required. There are motor mount R&R threads too. You may want to check those out.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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From: Eastern Washington State
2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Thanks, Marcus. Here's his post:

Starter Removal
Marcus, thank-you so much for reply and the diagram. I was able to circumvent some of 'those' steps thankfully.


PLEASE ENSURE YOU HAVE THE EXTERNAL TORX-TYPE BITS In fact don't even attempt unless you have 'em because you will not get far. You can obtain these at NAPA, and Sears in their specialized tool section. Sure, you can go to Snap-off or Matco if you wish to pay thru the nose.

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove plastic cover/shield under the engine
3. Jack up passenger-side of vehicle. Of course use a jack stand and employ your vehicle's emergency brake.
3. Ensure you support the engine oil sump on a broad block of wood under the oil pan and jack up ONLY as needed to support.
4. Remove right (passsenger side) engine mount in order to have the necessary clearance to remove starter - ENTIRELY remove the rubber isolator and the aluminum engine mount on the engine block itself, that has four bolts (friggin pain to remove, you are forewarned + they are E-Torx, my favorite). NOTE: The rubber isolator has a bolt on top and one you must access from below. Once you remove the top bolt you can remove the heat shield as well.
5. Disconnect the "hot" lead from the solenoid.
6. Now you can remove the two retaining bolts from the housing - you'll need a pretty long extension for the top bolt and a universal joint, the bottom one should be relatively accessible without any hitches. These bolts are loosened from the rearward side of the vehicle. (Size E14)
7. Push starter towards front of engine - don't let it fall.
8. Go grab a Sapporo, Stela Artois, NewCastle, Harp's or whatever your favorite adult beverage happens to be

I did a search and found a starter for $145, give or take, and got it thru drivewire with free ground ship + $75 core fee which you'll get back when you send your old starter. I purchased the crank sensor for $57 to replace both it and the starter at the same time.

Hey, as always I'm happy to help anyone, if you have questions don't hesitate to email or PM.

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Last edited by gorgerider; Sep 30, 2011 at 10:43 AM.
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