Paranoid: What precautions Re. Convertible top failure ?

So, spring is here and have been cycling the rag top.

Have read/heard about typically MB defective seals, etc. failing and rag top getting stuck during opening/closing. What precautions should I take, know about, etc., so that if this happens to me, I can at least get home with the top down.

Is there some special tool, procedure, or something, to bail one out of this dilemma ?

Info., links, something ?

Thanks

 

I have the same car and the only time in 2 years the top did anything stupid was my fault. Do you have a owners manual? If so the manual up procedure is documented there. I have read it more then once, but never done it.

Other then that you may wanna check your hydraulic fluid for the pump that moves the top.

My only withstanding issue with the top is the cables that pull the top are "stretched" and need to be replaced. MB dealer says $500 with labor. I put it off till spring. The side effect is you have to "guide" the top when putting it down or "catch" it when putting it up.

.... Hope that may help a little

 

There is a tool in the roll up bag in the trunk that is used to help get the top down manually if you need to. Because with the top 1/2 up and 1/2 down you cant get in the trunk, I'd suggest you put that tool in the bottom of the compartment between your seats. It's an odd looking piece of flat metal with a curve to it

 

Do yourself a favor... open and close the top manualy to familiarize yourself with the process before you need to. You dont want to be learning "how to" when your in a hurry to get it closed!! The proper tool does make it much easier also.

 

I really should try this. I have told myself that I would 100 times. I've read the owners manual on the procedure. But I just have never done it I hope I never have to.

 

i have put the top up and down quite a few times by hand it does not take long but you will need the special tool and a slotted screwdriver its a good idea to know how to do it not leave it till its to late . ps only reason i have to do it is just got the car and the roof doesnt work grrrrrr

 

Well, wadda ya know, ya learn something every day.

So, what I have been calling a standard screwdriver, like, forever, is actually a slotted screwdriver. For a second there I though I was going to have to order some special euro thing. Slotted screwdriver, I like it.

Got busy this weekend and did not have time to try a dry run at manipulating the top. Will try next weekend. Watch, my top will jam tomorrow.

Thanks

 

I'd also add ensure you can get into the boot with the key only, this caught me out major time as the boot gets locked out once the system knows the roofs not opened/closed, its a world of pain.....

 

Here are a few things I would add to the list of general precautions.

- On early model years (at least '98 and '99 - I don't know exactly where the cut-off is and hope someone can give more details), the relay next to the pump can get hung up closed and keep the hydraulic pump running until the motor burns out. Very costly to replace, and Mercedes does not sell new pumps any more! Early model owners, please swap relays for the newer ones...

- Cycle your top from time to time. Unfortunately, the W208 CLK ('98-'03) has five hydraulic cylinders in the set of seven that have shafts made of chromed, regular steel. These shafts can rust under adverse conditions, and even the best seal cannot prevent leaks through tiny rust pits when those slide through. Replacement cylinders are very expensive. Top Hydraulics has implemented a procedure where we can now replace the shafts with stainless steel ones that will never rust again, and we replace the seals in all cylinders with far superior material, but the shaft replacement is a big deal when it's needed. If you live in a very humid climate or near the ocean, an occasional cycle of the top will keep an oil film on the shafts that helps in preventing corrosion.

- When you feel like you have time to get your hands dirty, flush the hydraulic fluid in the pump. This is a sorely neglected maintenance item after all W208 CLKs are now ten years old or more. I personally would flush the fluid about every five years. The reason is twofold: one, the hydraulic fluid becomes a bit aggressive or less protective with time. That is caused by chemical changes and immersed micro-particles/sludge. Two, you want to be sure there is no WATER in the fluid. The hydraulic fluid is specifically designed not to immerse water - water is supposed to drop to the bottom of the reservoir, or it will ruin the seals in your hydraulic system once it cycles through. For fluid, use the dealer recommended fluid (you need only a quart), or buy online FeBi 02615. Do NOT use any additives or fluids that you can find at the local auto parts store - those are bad for the system.

- If you plan on keeping the car for a few years, have at least the rear bow lock cylinder and the case cover lock cylinder upgraded before they fail. That may save you from having hydraulic fluid spilled in your car and dealing with an emergency. All OEM cylinder seals will fail eventually (unless your car gets wrecked prematurely), and the two I have mentioned usually fail first. They are fairly easy to get to, and we now have the option of sending you those cylinders already mounted inside their locks as a core exchange. That means, you pay a refundable deposit and we will send you replacement locks with cylinders before you send us yours back as "cores". See http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...-assembly.html

I hope this helps,

Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com