JDenham I got my pads on ebay all Front and rear set all ceramic for 37.00
The brakes are great I am very happy and low dust rate ceramics are the best. On ebay there are rotors I saw a pair for 61.00 but that is your call .. but from what I read they go through rotors fast so why brother paying top price it they need to be changed all the time

OK new update now the vibration is at alls speeds it seem like the shocks is bad it is really bugging me, I can feel every thing in the road to the piont I wonder if I feel bumps and not vibrations . When I test the shocks witheh puch up and down 3times ans let go test they pass

fyp

And shocks are probably not the cause of a vibration...just a really bouncy ride when you go over bumps. I'm telling you...look at the ball joints, tie rod ends, LCA bushings, tires/wheels and brakes.

That's weird now it's coming from The front at all speeds ?? Did u replace the rotors ?

The bearing are perfect looked this past weekend tie rods fine upper anf lower ball joint no play... no I have nor change the disk 60.00 and then its wasted? or flex disk ? could it be that or the steering would not shake from that ? I guess I can take the 60.00 hit but I hate chasing problem nad repalcing parts for nothing. I have seen that too often on this site cause there are post of people doing that with no results...is it really worth it ? Have you seen that fix this problem? a wrapped disk at 20-30 and again at 60-70?

Just curious, what size wheels, tyres are you running?

all stock 16 in my question to all is does a flex disk that is bad make the steering wheel shake? if not I going to get a 1 rotor ans try it on the left side if it vibrakes willl swap it to the right side. This way I only waste 30.00 for testing.

OK guys after taking my time I think it has to be 1 of 2 things. I was taking a slow long left turn today and the vibration seemed worse then I turned the wheel straight while in the turn and it was not as bad then back to the left vibration came back. The drivers side had a lower ball joint replaced about a year ago so that should be fine. I am thinking they played around looking at the bearing and did not tighten it correctly. I did the up and down left to right check and it passed but I think I should remove the cap and look . The other thining is the rotor because after the brake job this all started to be noticable. What do you guys thing left or right rotor if the wheel bearing are ok ? The reason for one rotor at a time is because if I get on of a pair it's free shipping and 30 ea of 61.50 for the pair/

I would not do one rotor at a time. thats like one tire at a time but worse. if you think it is the rotor buy both. also there are lots of places that do free brake inspections. I wouldnt put a $30 ebay rotor on my car anyway. take another look at the rear bushing on the LCA.

Thank you Insame1 but a little advice to you is when you have been working on cars as long as I have 25 years you learn not to throw money at everything. The rotors on ebay are as good as the ones at most places steel is steel in most cases. I have bought ebay rotors and pads 4 set 37.00 for this car for 15 years and never had a problem/ 2 BMW 3 mini vans 2 jeeps and dozens of friends and neighbors cars ect ect. Don't always fall for the more you pay the better it is..2nd a true machanic when chasing a problem will always do one thing at a time....Remeber in my post I said the rotors on there are almost new with no wear why would i waste another 30.00 and put 2 if i need one.and it the same amout of time. I have seen posts on this site were peopl have change the intire fron ans asn some that paid people to do that and still have vibrations that alone tells me 1 part at a time. What it its the flex plate after I bought 2 LCAB 2 shoocks 2 rotors 2 tie rod ends ... I would feel like a fool and wished I paid some one else to do it, like a machanic.

If you notice i didnt say just replace the rotors and, i would never replace one rotor. Something i have leanrned from working on cars my whole life. again i suggest looking at the rear bushing on the lca. Not that i expect you to think i know anything about cars.

karayjay: I'm too lazy to read through this entire thread, but I feel your pain.

Are you running wheel spacers? If so, are they properly mounted/centered?

Also, though they are close to the center and thus not a huge factor for balance, your lug nuts are definitely rotating mass - mismatched sets can cause rotational imbalance.

Just a couple of thoughts from my echo chamber.

Good luck!

I have decide to try tires first why? well the viabration was just there and more so felt like the rear as I remembered today so I got one balanced and it did not help. The streering was never shaking even when I 1st bought it. I would have been shocked and looked into it right away. It was only after the rotaion did the streeing wheel shake.I went to NTB last week and had them balance the fronts (New Tires) and then rotate them to the the rear and then the backs 1/2 worn to the front.That is when the shaking started. I can get 2 tires 90 % tread michelins mounted and balanced for 100 so that it worth it.If that doe no help rotors but as I recalled my bmw had a bad rotor and never shaked....

Vibration days are over RearTires were the problem ..... not rotors/not tie rods/not lcab/not the flex disk/not ball joints/ not shocks/ Got it on the 1st try

You had luck, I had my rear diff changed (on warranty) and still have a vibration on the rear at moderate/higher speeds!!

Wheels, tires, shocks, transmission bearings, etc... all where changed and we noticed that only with the car loaded the vibration was worst! with stock suspension... Then MB decided to change the rear diff!
I have KW v2 and had to remove it to try to find the problem and still no luck!!

PS: since the diff change I drove few km since 2 days later the diff was leaking oil!!!! had to wait for new seal and have the car for 1 day now and didn't drive it yet.

Wow you still have a warranty? To bad your dealer sucks ..I cannot beleave they thought it was the rear axle .....It's funny how it vibrates at 40 then fine then back at 70 mph unitll 80. .

I have a extended warranty from MB Germany renewed every year if I want to pay 500€ for a new year!
My car will make 4 years next month but factory warranty payed 75% of the diff and extended warranty payed the rest of the 3000€!

Ok I did replace the front rotor no difference did not help it is still pulsatng and on the passenger side you can feel the road suface changes it seem very sensitive. When you gove over bumps it feels like something is loose on the passenger side. I check the tie rods and lower ball joints no play at all no wear on the tire.The steering wheel is not straight a bit to the right when I correct it the car goes left a little ..let go of the wheel it goes straight... any ideas lost on this one the old suspension money pit game...

I thought you fixed your problem with tires? Did the tires help at all, or was that a false positive?


That's funny, I own an E39 540I and post a lot on the forums and they are packed with suspension questions. 90% of E39s especially the heavier 540I that people drive faster/harder need a bunch of suspension work to bring it up to snuff. I've spent at least 2K and I bought my car at 90K and I'm at 122 now. Coming from the BMW world I wasn't afraid buying a car that has some shake at 65mph on the highway. I figure I'm going to end up overhauling some portion of the suspension on just about any german luxury car. I needed new rotors (shimmy when braking) new thrust arm bushings, new front control arms & bushings & new rear control arms. I added new rear sway bar links and a stiffer sway bar from an M5. Still needs tie rods but have been putting it off.

My CLK320 is at 159,300 and drives really nicely at speeds under 65, but at about 65mpg the steering wheel begins to shake. If I hold the wheel tight it isn't really as noticeable but it's kind of annoying. The tires are at maybe 40% and may be pretty old so I'm really hoping new tires will help. It would be nice to put off the suspension work for a few months after paying cash for the car, so I was hopeful tires helped you.

I too had a car that did that it was a bad tire Town and Country ...Yes it seemed fined for a few days the highway vibrate is gone but the low speed is there. What is strange is some days are worse then others on the same road or that the more I drive the better it seems ..... heat I too owned a BMW 324is before this car ..The tire are new so it's not that..It really feel like ball joint with the road noise and feel and when I go over bumps but the pass the test for play so I am lost

My question is I guess for all of us is what can cause this vibration yet not wear the tires aka tie rods inner and outter/ tires? How can it only be at 40 and 60 and not all the time/ Balance I can understand but most of us have had it done and it still vibrates. Bearings that is easy you hear it or you dont and that would be at all speeds. For me it seems that when I go over pot holes the shockes handle it but at te same time something feels loose and it shakes a bit ans you cna feel it in the wheel. Ball joints tested 4 times and it was replaced 2 years ago

Would you conceder putting the spare on at one location at a time to see if there is any difference? That would eliminate a rim and tire problem.