IBelieve

By the way, I have a 40 MPH and slightly at 60 MPH vibration also. So I'm watching and thinking for myself also.

MarcusF

OP - did you ever check the steering gear bolts? Both Twinsin and David mentioned them in this thread, but I don’t see where you replied. They are supposed to be done once every 4 years or 50K miles and take all of 5 minutes to do.

Birdseye

It sucks to spend $ on diagnosis but if you're throwing parts at the problem it can be worth the $100. Search long and hard for a reliable indy that will do jobs you can't or don't want to. Much better than randomly replacing tires and you can do the work yourself if still if you want, although I wouldn't think twice in replacing common luxury car things like Control Arms & bushings they can make a huge difference beyond smoothing out a wobble problem at a specific speed.

Anyway from old threads searching 60-65mpg I read:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...60-65-mph.html

So we have many solutions to several different problems. Replica wheels can really hose a nice car like this, or a bent wheel. Road Force balance or proper rims can make a big difference, but sometimes as in the first guys' case some suspension parts needed to be taken care of. A good mechanic should be able to pin down what annoys you the most.




Marcus: Just got my clk so I'll have to try that. I see you mentioning steering bolts in a lot of threads, thanks for this page too: http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/sgb.html
A lot of great other stuff on this page, I've bookmarked and read at least 5 of your 'articles' already, great stuff!

karayjay

Wow nice write bluebenzclk I kown it sucks chasing problems I was going to do a ball joint and tires rod 15 ea but tested them and they passed so I may waste another 30 like I did on the rotor. I like the indy idea but to spend money on something I can do would kill me and they may dod the old try ans relaced ans chge me for tie rod ball joint and bearing 400.00. I checked the bolts to the steering box it's fine the rims are original. I ma jsut live with it because another thing I notice the more I dirve the better the car ride. I was thinking bearings but they are fine and it ould not effect the ball joint looseness feeling I am getting...But the steering wheel is a new problem the when I make it straight it pulls left that did not happen last week ARGH!!!

bobbyjo9

No disrespect, but your posts have been difficult for me to follow at times. I dont know your skill level but it sounds as if you have been relying on visual inspections deeming a part "ok" without verifing a part to be within spec. If your steering wheel is no longer centered after a part (??) replacement, then is sounds like the car was aligned prior with a part (??) out of spec. At the very least your car is now out of alignment so im sure you have a ride that is less than accceptable. The design of this suspension takes a beating and there are several wear items that dont take much to cause a shimmy. LCA's are 1 component that will cause all kinds of problems and are very easy to NOT see a failure when inspecting on the car. Im just saying you may want to look over the front end again a bit closer. Expensive parts may not be better because of the price, but cheap parts are definitly "cheap" for a reason!

karayjay

I was a mechanic for 9 years plus I did my entire front end on my BMW 325is this car is new to me 3 months. I have rebuilt engine installed them and have worked on owned for 20 cars. This is one tough car to get it right for instance today the vibration on the way to work was normal but on the way home there was barely anything how to you diag that. Today I realized after a u turn I felt the front end to the point it is the drag link. I would rather change all parts inner and outer and center to make sure I catch it all at once for 85.00. I also have gone with all the posts here and read the info so I am not to be fooled and waste money. I have had people tell me balance the tires look at the rims look at the flex disk. There are so many post here that point so many different scenarios that it hard to be sure be new with CLK's. I have checked the ball joints tire rods and they seem fine but driving the car say they are bad so I am going with that. Verifying the parts were the left right pull off the ground 8 inches then a bar to lift up the wheel to check the ball joints and a t crow bar as back up. That is how I found the problem with my BMW and changed both LCAB. I have a post for a wobble on a pathfinder that 10 years later people all over the world thank me today that I was one in a few that figured out the (pathfinder death wobble ).SO I can safety say I know my cars I just don’t through money at a fix.
My personal feeling is that the front end on a clk can trick you and even if you move te tires by hand to see if something is loose ids it feels fine go with what you feel when you are driving the car.The drag linkn with both inner and outer tire rods for 85.00 is a fair shot. It cover 6 points of failure if you look at the part closely.

bobbyjo9

Sounds to me like you know best. Good luck to ya

Mercee

I just wanna add some more info to this thread, no solutions unfortunately. I have the same vibrations ~40 and then 60-80. They come and go. Recently they had all but gone away. But my front tires were wearing heavily on the outsides. I had the front aligned by a highly recommended alignment shop ("way out of alignment") and put new tires on up front and now the vibration is back and as bad as ever. It is confounding.

karayjay

Up date new drag link installed asn way better now and better respones when turning right. There is stll a slight vibration the pulsating is a bit there but not as bad. I ma going for the left lower ball joint and then the wehel bearing right side... that should do it at this point the is a slight bearly noticable vibration betwee 20 and 35 asn thats it.