Odd Problem Fix as an FYI
05-13-2013, 04:54 PM
#51
When you take out the lock, follow the wires you have disconnected and see if they are damaged! Or check out the wires before even taking out the lock.
I haven't seen a case cover lock go bad by itself yet, either.
Dealer list price for p/n 2087500984 is $640. You can see this part referenced in the drawing I attached to a previous post. We can sell you one for far less money, but I would take a close look at it first to see that you really need a new one. Send it over to Top Hydraulics with a reference to this thread, and I will check it out myself and report to the forum.
The numbers "640R/ 515c" are not part of the part's official part number. I'm curious about the change of parts - did they originally tell you "rear bow latch mechanism", or was it only what you thought they were talking about?
Klaus
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...-assembly.html
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
I haven't seen a case cover lock go bad by itself yet, either.
Dealer list price for p/n 2087500984 is $640. You can see this part referenced in the drawing I attached to a previous post. We can sell you one for far less money, but I would take a close look at it first to see that you really need a new one. Send it over to Top Hydraulics with a reference to this thread, and I will check it out myself and report to the forum.
The numbers "640R/ 515c" are not part of the part's official part number. I'm curious about the change of parts - did they originally tell you "rear bow latch mechanism", or was it only what you thought they were talking about?
Klaus
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...-assembly.html
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
05-20-2013, 11:18 AM
#52
Update: I ordered the case cover lock from Klaus (great service and super-quick shipping BTW) and installed it yesterday. No dice.
Basically it seems as if the hydraulic system isnt strong enough to release the lock. If I manually unlatch the case cover lock, it definitely gets further. It was actually working better with the prior latch (if I manually opened the top, it could be closed automatically).
I'm going to call the shop and try to talk to the mechanic that diagnosed it as the case cover lock to see if I can get more information. His notes stated "everything working in the hydraulic flow" "test micro switches and ok". If so, then what next?
Basically it seems as if the hydraulic system isnt strong enough to release the lock. If I manually unlatch the case cover lock, it definitely gets further. It was actually working better with the prior latch (if I manually opened the top, it could be closed automatically).
I'm going to call the shop and try to talk to the mechanic that diagnosed it as the case cover lock to see if I can get more information. His notes stated "everything working in the hydraulic flow" "test micro switches and ok". If so, then what next?
07-11-2013, 02:32 AM
#53
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CLK320 Cab. W208
Hi Gun4hire,
I am very keen to know if you managed to resolve this issue as I seem to be suffering the exact same symptoms on my 2001 CLk 320 Cab.
Your input would be very much appreciatedl.
Thanks,
Dec.
(For once the sun is shining here in Ireland and the bl**dy roof won't work !!)
I am very keen to know if you managed to resolve this issue as I seem to be suffering the exact same symptoms on my 2001 CLk 320 Cab.
Your input would be very much appreciatedl.
Thanks,
Dec.
(For once the sun is shining here in Ireland and the bl**dy roof won't work !!)
07-13-2013, 02:18 AM
#54
No, I never really resolved it fully. The hydraulic cylinder sent by Klaus turned out to be the 'wrong one' according to the mechanic. When I pointed out that I ordered it by part number, he just shrugged. "oops"... I haven't sent it back yet but only expect to recover my core charge.
So now, I can open it normally. Only in closing do I need to fiddle with it. Cover opens and the top comes up. Cover then closes but the bow doesn't drop and latch. Instead I turn the key off (apparently this relieves any remaining pressure in the cylinders). The bow drops by gravity. I then hold the front of the top up a bit to align the rear bow. I turn the key on and lift the rear headrests. When I do this, the rear bow clicks and latches down. I then lock the front and lift the windows. All of this is with all the original equipment.
Even with the computer connected, the mechanic couldn't figure why this was happening. I'm thinking I may have a screwy controller...
...anyway, sorry I can't really be more help. I've pretty much decided to sell the car, not specifically because of the top but rather all the other little nagging things that seem to plague it.
So now, I can open it normally. Only in closing do I need to fiddle with it. Cover opens and the top comes up. Cover then closes but the bow doesn't drop and latch. Instead I turn the key off (apparently this relieves any remaining pressure in the cylinders). The bow drops by gravity. I then hold the front of the top up a bit to align the rear bow. I turn the key on and lift the rear headrests. When I do this, the rear bow clicks and latches down. I then lock the front and lift the windows. All of this is with all the original equipment.
Even with the computer connected, the mechanic couldn't figure why this was happening. I'm thinking I may have a screwy controller...
...anyway, sorry I can't really be more help. I've pretty much decided to sell the car, not specifically because of the top but rather all the other little nagging things that seem to plague it.
08-25-2013, 01:15 PM
#56
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CLK320 Cab. W208
Hi Gun4Hire,
Are you still in trouble or have you parted with the car ?
I have at last sorted mine. It turned out to be an intermittantly faulty limit switch - the one that signals whether the bow is in the "up" (vertical) or "down" position.
I too had thrown in the towel and taken the car to Mercedes for a diagnostic. The report came back that the control module was "defective", though there was also a stored code that the status of some limit switch was implausable. Apparently the system is not capable of identifying which limit switch is at fault.
Anyhow, to cut a very long story short, I purchased a used control module from Germany, fitted it, and as you say "no dice". Back to square one !
In the end I devised a way of testing each of the nine or ten limit switches from the connection plug at the control module. I could then operate the roof manually while checking that each limit switch in turn did as it was supposed to do. Murphy's Law ensured that the last switch tested turned out to be faulty. The bow switch incorporates two limit switches, one for up and one for down, with a "no mans' land" inbetween. This is also the most difficult to replace.
After a week or so of normal operation, both with the German control unit (now surplus to requirements) and my original unit re-fitted, I am delighted to say that all seems fine.
If you still have the car and I can help you with a further attempt at diagnosis, please come back to me and I will talk you through what exactly I did.
Dec.
Are you still in trouble or have you parted with the car ?
I have at last sorted mine. It turned out to be an intermittantly faulty limit switch - the one that signals whether the bow is in the "up" (vertical) or "down" position.
I too had thrown in the towel and taken the car to Mercedes for a diagnostic. The report came back that the control module was "defective", though there was also a stored code that the status of some limit switch was implausable. Apparently the system is not capable of identifying which limit switch is at fault.
Anyhow, to cut a very long story short, I purchased a used control module from Germany, fitted it, and as you say "no dice". Back to square one !
In the end I devised a way of testing each of the nine or ten limit switches from the connection plug at the control module. I could then operate the roof manually while checking that each limit switch in turn did as it was supposed to do. Murphy's Law ensured that the last switch tested turned out to be faulty. The bow switch incorporates two limit switches, one for up and one for down, with a "no mans' land" inbetween. This is also the most difficult to replace.
After a week or so of normal operation, both with the German control unit (now surplus to requirements) and my original unit re-fitted, I am delighted to say that all seems fine.
If you still have the car and I can help you with a further attempt at diagnosis, please come back to me and I will talk you through what exactly I did.
Dec.
08-25-2013, 04:10 PM
#57
SPONSOR
No, I never really resolved it fully. The hydraulic cylinder sent by Klaus turned out to be the 'wrong one' according to the mechanic. When I pointed out that I ordered it by part number, he just shrugged. "oops"... I haven't sent it back yet but only expect to recover my core charge.
So now, I can open it normally. Only in closing do I need to fiddle with it. Cover opens and the top comes up. Cover then closes but the bow doesn't drop and latch. Instead I turn the key off (apparently this relieves any remaining pressure in the cylinders). The bow drops by gravity. I then hold the front of the top up a bit to align the rear bow. I turn the key on and lift the rear headrests. When I do this, the rear bow clicks and latches down. I then lock the front and lift the windows. All of this is with all the original equipment.
Even with the computer connected, the mechanic couldn't figure why this was happening. I'm thinking I may have a screwy controller...
So now, I can open it normally. Only in closing do I need to fiddle with it. Cover opens and the top comes up. Cover then closes but the bow doesn't drop and latch. Instead I turn the key off (apparently this relieves any remaining pressure in the cylinders). The bow drops by gravity. I then hold the front of the top up a bit to align the rear bow. I turn the key on and lift the rear headrests. When I do this, the rear bow clicks and latches down. I then lock the front and lift the windows. All of this is with all the original equipment.
Even with the computer connected, the mechanic couldn't figure why this was happening. I'm thinking I may have a screwy controller...
Klaus
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
08-25-2013, 04:13 PM
#58
SPONSOR
Hi Gun4Hire,
Are you still in trouble or have you parted with the car ?
I have at last sorted mine. It turned out to be an intermittantly faulty limit switch - the one that signals whether the bow is in the "up" (vertical) or "down" position.
I too had thrown in the towel and taken the car to Mercedes for a diagnostic. The report came back that the control module was "defective", though there was also a stored code that the status of some limit switch was implausable. Apparently the system is not capable of identifying which limit switch is at fault.
Anyhow, to cut a very long story short, I purchased a used control module from Germany, fitted it, and as you say "no dice". Back to square one !
In the end I devised a way of testing each of the nine or ten limit switches from the connection plug at the control module. I could then operate the roof manually while checking that each limit switch in turn did as it was supposed to do. Murphy's Law ensured that the last switch tested turned out to be faulty. The bow switch incorporates two limit switches, one for up and one for down, with a "no mans' land" inbetween. This is also the most difficult to replace.
After a week or so of normal operation, both with the German control unit (now surplus to requirements) and my original unit re-fitted, I am delighted to say that all seems fine.
If you still have the car and I can help you with a further attempt at diagnosis, please come back to me and I will talk you through what exactly I did.
Dec.
Are you still in trouble or have you parted with the car ?
I have at last sorted mine. It turned out to be an intermittantly faulty limit switch - the one that signals whether the bow is in the "up" (vertical) or "down" position.
I too had thrown in the towel and taken the car to Mercedes for a diagnostic. The report came back that the control module was "defective", though there was also a stored code that the status of some limit switch was implausable. Apparently the system is not capable of identifying which limit switch is at fault.
Anyhow, to cut a very long story short, I purchased a used control module from Germany, fitted it, and as you say "no dice". Back to square one !
In the end I devised a way of testing each of the nine or ten limit switches from the connection plug at the control module. I could then operate the roof manually while checking that each limit switch in turn did as it was supposed to do. Murphy's Law ensured that the last switch tested turned out to be faulty. The bow switch incorporates two limit switches, one for up and one for down, with a "no mans' land" inbetween. This is also the most difficult to replace.
After a week or so of normal operation, both with the German control unit (now surplus to requirements) and my original unit re-fitted, I am delighted to say that all seems fine.
If you still have the car and I can help you with a further attempt at diagnosis, please come back to me and I will talk you through what exactly I did.
Dec.
awesome! Thanks for sharing, and I hope that gun4hire still has his car and can take advantage of your generous offer.
Klaus
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
08-26-2013, 02:26 PM
#59
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Clk 320
Hi Dec ,
My roof seems to have the same fault as described in this thread , what I have noticed is that when I try to open the roof the pump runs but the bow does not unlock.
If you look at the bow lock mechanism it seems to be trying to lock instead of unlock , do you know if yours was also doing this before you changed the switch ?
Cheers Paul
My roof seems to have the same fault as described in this thread , what I have noticed is that when I try to open the roof the pump runs but the bow does not unlock.
If you look at the bow lock mechanism it seems to be trying to lock instead of unlock , do you know if yours was also doing this before you changed the switch ?
Cheers Paul
08-26-2013, 03:23 PM
#60
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CLK320 Cab. W208
Hi Mustyards,
I can't say that I noticed a similiar problem with mine. When the switch was in Faulty mode, if I tried to open the roof the control module would register a fault and the operating switch would flash slowley.
I can only assume that the module was seeing the bow lock as closed while at the same time it was not receiving any signal to say that the bow itself was in the "down" position, this would trigger a fault code as the signals are implausable. If the module cannot determine exactly where in the cycle the soft top is, it will shut down.
From what you describe, it would appear that the roof is trying to open. The module only allows a predetermined amount of time for the pump to complete each part of the roof cycle and if this time is exceeded without the task being completed it will shut down the pump and the light will flash continuiously.
Have you tried releasing the bow lock manually and then trying to complete the cycle electrically ?
I do not know what year your car is but htere are significant differences in cars built up to December 2000 and those thereafter. Mine falls into the later catagory - just.
Sorry that I can't be of more help.
Dec.
I can't say that I noticed a similiar problem with mine. When the switch was in Faulty mode, if I tried to open the roof the control module would register a fault and the operating switch would flash slowley.
I can only assume that the module was seeing the bow lock as closed while at the same time it was not receiving any signal to say that the bow itself was in the "down" position, this would trigger a fault code as the signals are implausable. If the module cannot determine exactly where in the cycle the soft top is, it will shut down.
From what you describe, it would appear that the roof is trying to open. The module only allows a predetermined amount of time for the pump to complete each part of the roof cycle and if this time is exceeded without the task being completed it will shut down the pump and the light will flash continuiously.
Have you tried releasing the bow lock manually and then trying to complete the cycle electrically ?
I do not know what year your car is but htere are significant differences in cars built up to December 2000 and those thereafter. Mine falls into the later catagory - just.
Sorry that I can't be of more help.
Dec.
08-26-2013, 03:48 PM
#61
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2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Dec,
Thanks for sharing your find. it seems the more complex a system gets, the more complex the resolution is. Inside the box is now inside the boxes on these cars and all networked to boot. fun,fun,fun !!!
Many of the problems associated with the top can be resolved by studying many different forums that have positive results.
Mustyyards might have stretched cables that help to bend the top during opening, bow lock frayed cables @ r side hatch hinge
I use my arm to hold the top going up and catch it while closing.
Gator
Thanks for sharing your find. it seems the more complex a system gets, the more complex the resolution is. Inside the box is now inside the boxes on these cars and all networked to boot. fun,fun,fun !!!
Many of the problems associated with the top can be resolved by studying many different forums that have positive results.
Mustyyards might have stretched cables that help to bend the top during opening, bow lock frayed cables @ r side hatch hinge
I use my arm to hold the top going up and catch it while closing.
Gator
Last edited by GatorMB; 08-26-2013 at 04:18 PM. Reason: content
08-26-2013, 05:23 PM
#62
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CLK320 Cab. W208
Saw this some time ago, might be of help to someone.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bromley, London
Car: CLK 320 CAB Elegance C208 Posts: 6,575
CLK 208 Soft Top tension Cable replacement
My Soft top started to have the problem where it would not always stay up once pushed the first 8 inches, and would also slam shut when closing instead of needing to be pulled shut.
The cause of this problem is that one, or both of the tension cables has snapped. Its a short cable, about 18 inches long, a nipple at one end to be secured in the metal frame at the rear apex of the roof, and the other end has a large tube (6 inches long) that bolts to the section at the front of the roof, under the trim.
Tools needed, Philips Screwdriver, 10mm socket and T10 torx.
First off, this is where my problem area was, the nipple had pulled off the end of the cable.
Next, go and buy a new one, £80 each side, so do check if you need just the one, or both sides.
Raise the bow, and switch off the ignition leaving the roof still folded. Remove the four philips screws.
With a T10 torx, unscrew the bolt that holds the roof catch handle
The actual threaded section is around 12mm so apply a downward pressure on the handle and it should soon slide out
Carefully prise off the trim, taking care with the four plastic retainers.
With that trim panel removed, take out the two small philips screws that holds the lower cloth trim in place, fold out of the way and the 10mm nut that secures the cable is now exposed.
Operate the roof until it reaches this position, any lower and it will close itself under gravity, you have been warned.
Remove the 10mm nut, and remove the tubed end of the cable, taking note of the path through the trim that it travels.
At the rear of the apex in the roof, locate and remove the other end of the cable, taking care to not lose the nipple retaining clip that is in two halves.
Thread the nipple end through from the front of the roof first, through the openings in the lining, and through the hole in the roof frame.
Now reattach the two halves of the retaining clip just above the nipple, and push it back into the hole until its fully seated.
Now you are done, refit the tubed end, securing the 10mm nut, lower the roof, leaving the bow standing upright and refit the rest of the trim.
Total time was around 30m, this included stopping to take pictures.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bromley, London
Car: CLK 320 CAB Elegance C208 Posts: 6,575
CLK 208 Soft Top tension Cable replacement My Soft top started to have the problem where it would not always stay up once pushed the first 8 inches, and would also slam shut when closing instead of needing to be pulled shut.
The cause of this problem is that one, or both of the tension cables has snapped. Its a short cable, about 18 inches long, a nipple at one end to be secured in the metal frame at the rear apex of the roof, and the other end has a large tube (6 inches long) that bolts to the section at the front of the roof, under the trim.
Tools needed, Philips Screwdriver, 10mm socket and T10 torx.
First off, this is where my problem area was, the nipple had pulled off the end of the cable.
Next, go and buy a new one, £80 each side, so do check if you need just the one, or both sides.
Raise the bow, and switch off the ignition leaving the roof still folded. Remove the four philips screws.
With a T10 torx, unscrew the bolt that holds the roof catch handle
The actual threaded section is around 12mm so apply a downward pressure on the handle and it should soon slide out
Carefully prise off the trim, taking care with the four plastic retainers.
With that trim panel removed, take out the two small philips screws that holds the lower cloth trim in place, fold out of the way and the 10mm nut that secures the cable is now exposed.
Operate the roof until it reaches this position, any lower and it will close itself under gravity, you have been warned.
Remove the 10mm nut, and remove the tubed end of the cable, taking note of the path through the trim that it travels.
At the rear of the apex in the roof, locate and remove the other end of the cable, taking care to not lose the nipple retaining clip that is in two halves.
Thread the nipple end through from the front of the roof first, through the openings in the lining, and through the hole in the roof frame.
Now reattach the two halves of the retaining clip just above the nipple, and push it back into the hole until its fully seated.
Now you are done, refit the tubed end, securing the 10mm nut, lower the roof, leaving the bow standing upright and refit the rest of the trim.
Total time was around 30m, this included stopping to take pictures.
08-28-2013, 03:19 PM
#63
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Clk 320
Saw this some time ago, might be of help to someone.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bromley, London
Car: CLK 320 CAB Elegance C208 Posts: 6,575
CLK 208 Soft Top tension Cable replacement
My Soft top started to have the problem where it would not always stay up once pushed the first 8 inches, and would also slam shut when closing instead of needing to be pulled shut.
The cause of this problem is that one, or both of the tension cables has snapped. Its a short cable, about 18 inches long, a nipple at one end to be secured in the metal frame at the rear apex of the roof, and the other end has a large tube (6 inches long) that bolts to the section at the front of the roof, under the trim.
Tools needed, Philips Screwdriver, 10mm socket and T10 torx.
First off, this is where my problem area was, the nipple had pulled off the end of the cable.
Next, go and buy a new one, £80 each side, so do check if you need just the one, or both sides.
Raise the bow, and switch off the ignition leaving the roof still folded. Remove the four philips screws.
With a T10 torx, unscrew the bolt that holds the roof catch handle
The actual threaded section is around 12mm so apply a downward pressure on the handle and it should soon slide out
Carefully prise off the trim, taking care with the four plastic retainers.
With that trim panel removed, take out the two small philips screws that holds the lower cloth trim in place, fold out of the way and the 10mm nut that secures the cable is now exposed.
Operate the roof until it reaches this position, any lower and it will close itself under gravity, you have been warned.
Remove the 10mm nut, and remove the tubed end of the cable, taking note of the path through the trim that it travels.
At the rear of the apex in the roof, locate and remove the other end of the cable, taking care to not lose the nipple retaining clip that is in two halves.
Thread the nipple end through from the front of the roof first, through the openings in the lining, and through the hole in the roof frame.
Now reattach the two halves of the retaining clip just above the nipple, and push it back into the hole until its fully seated.
Now you are done, refit the tubed end, securing the 10mm nut, lower the roof, leaving the bow standing upright and refit the rest of the trim.
Total time was around 30m, this included stopping to take pictures.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bromley, London
Car: CLK 320 CAB Elegance C208 Posts: 6,575
CLK 208 Soft Top tension Cable replacement My Soft top started to have the problem where it would not always stay up once pushed the first 8 inches, and would also slam shut when closing instead of needing to be pulled shut.
The cause of this problem is that one, or both of the tension cables has snapped. Its a short cable, about 18 inches long, a nipple at one end to be secured in the metal frame at the rear apex of the roof, and the other end has a large tube (6 inches long) that bolts to the section at the front of the roof, under the trim.
Tools needed, Philips Screwdriver, 10mm socket and T10 torx.
First off, this is where my problem area was, the nipple had pulled off the end of the cable.
Next, go and buy a new one, £80 each side, so do check if you need just the one, or both sides.
Raise the bow, and switch off the ignition leaving the roof still folded. Remove the four philips screws.
With a T10 torx, unscrew the bolt that holds the roof catch handle
The actual threaded section is around 12mm so apply a downward pressure on the handle and it should soon slide out
Carefully prise off the trim, taking care with the four plastic retainers.
With that trim panel removed, take out the two small philips screws that holds the lower cloth trim in place, fold out of the way and the 10mm nut that secures the cable is now exposed.
Operate the roof until it reaches this position, any lower and it will close itself under gravity, you have been warned.
Remove the 10mm nut, and remove the tubed end of the cable, taking note of the path through the trim that it travels.
At the rear of the apex in the roof, locate and remove the other end of the cable, taking care to not lose the nipple retaining clip that is in two halves.
Thread the nipple end through from the front of the roof first, through the openings in the lining, and through the hole in the roof frame.
Now reattach the two halves of the retaining clip just above the nipple, and push it back into the hole until its fully seated.
Now you are done, refit the tubed end, securing the 10mm nut, lower the roof, leaving the bow standing upright and refit the rest of the trim.
Total time was around 30m, this included stopping to take pictures.
Spent a bit of time on EPC to discover the switch is not listed separately - comes complete with the whole rollover bar !
A snip at £3349 + vat at 20% !!
Did a bit more digging and found its the same switch as fitted to a 129 and available separately for £37 + vat
Part should be here tomorrow , bow catch trying to lock was a bit of a red herring
Hope this helps someone else
09-25-2013, 05:10 PM
#64
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320 clk
Has anyone experienced the moulding that secures the headliner (around the rear view window) breaking. I lowered my top about a month ago and upon closing it, a piece of the moulding flew to the front seat. I had no idea what it was at first. later I realized what it was and now I'm afraid to drop my top again. Is it possible to just get the moulding replaced or the entire headliner.
10-01-2013, 05:39 PM
#65
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2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Thanks guys for the illustrations with instructions and part #'s to boot. I have all the symptoms on my car and will investigate the repair.
Angel - The rear window trim is part of the headliner and stitched to it as well. According to my local dealer the part # is available pending color #. I have read other posts that suggest it is not available.
Once the trim starts to break it is best to get a razor and cut away at the stitching to remove it completely, the sharp edges will puncture the canvas. The pieces of trim will fall off the window and bundle while the top folds into the rear compartment.
I am using Velcro for holding the headliner in place until a reasonable solution comes up. I am thinking balsa, universal body side molding or a trim piece from the salvage yard of another make if necessary.
Cheers, Gator
Angel - The rear window trim is part of the headliner and stitched to it as well. According to my local dealer the part # is available pending color #. I have read other posts that suggest it is not available.
Once the trim starts to break it is best to get a razor and cut away at the stitching to remove it completely, the sharp edges will puncture the canvas. The pieces of trim will fall off the window and bundle while the top folds into the rear compartment.
I am using Velcro for holding the headliner in place until a reasonable solution comes up. I am thinking balsa, universal body side molding or a trim piece from the salvage yard of another make if necessary.
Cheers, Gator
02-18-2014, 06:49 PM
#66
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C320
I bought a 02 clk320 with the top not working. I opened it manually and then tried it. It goes about half way open and then stops before going completely down or up. My rear head rests work perfectly and my windows go down when I open the latch. When toggling the top switch I can see the bow latch trying to move but just moved a little either way. It almost seems that I don't have enough pressure to complete the cycle but as I said the pump works the headrests perfectly.
When the top works back half way the motor gets a higher pitch sound to it. Kinda sounds like it hit some resistance.
If I don't open the latches by Allen wrench and a 10mm then the switch only flashes slowly.
I sprayed a little PB blaster on the latches to loosen them up but I plan to remove the bow latch and really clean it in solvent.
ANY more suggestions than what has already been written would be awesome.
When the top works back half way the motor gets a higher pitch sound to it. Kinda sounds like it hit some resistance.
If I don't open the latches by Allen wrench and a 10mm then the switch only flashes slowly.
I sprayed a little PB blaster on the latches to loosen them up but I plan to remove the bow latch and really clean it in solvent.
ANY more suggestions than what has already been written would be awesome.
03-04-2014, 10:32 AM
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CLK 320
Soft top indicator
I have a CLK 320 2002. When I close the top, the light on the button keeps blinking some times, and also the chime sounds, but not consistently.
If I open the top, theres no problem at all, it comes only when it is closed.
any comment? this is driving me crazy
Thank you
If I open the top, theres no problem at all, it comes only when it is closed.
any comment? this is driving me crazy
Thank you
03-04-2014, 05:19 PM
#69
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Chime when driving with closed top
Klaus
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
03-04-2014, 06:46 PM
#70
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CLK430
Where is the top lock located? I have a functioning top however when closing it fully it no longer chimes when complete and the switch will flash when driving. Sometimes it will chime as I drive whenever it wants. After locking the top with the handle and using the switch nothing happens - the rear deck lid doesn't move anymore. As a side note it does sound like the rear latch piece is binding slightly when lowering the roof, not sure if its related.
08-18-2022, 04:33 PM
#71
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1999 CLK 320 W208
Top Hydraulics website has moved....
The pdf's links here are invalid for Top Hydraulics. They have moved to https://www.tophydraulics.com/ and the W208 info has moved to https://www.tophydraulics.com/conten...benz-a208-info. The .pdf's are there.
