Captnkev25

Having a bit of trouble with my new to me CLK320 coupe trunk lock. I've lurked on this forum for a few months now and have read the horror stories of dead batteries, failed PSE pumps and locked keys in the trunk so I figured I'd preemptively make sure I could open the trunk with the blade in case of any of these. Went out the other day and tried the key and it only goes in about halfway!!! Not an emergency because I still can open from the fob and the release inside but I don't want to get caught out there. Blade works in the door and glove box just fine. I've been spraying with Seafoam deep creep with the trunk open so the lock is vertical for the last 2 days and blasting it with air before each test insertion of the key. I found a DIY on how to take the lock cylinder out and clean all the pins but I'm a bit Leary to do it as #1 it looks complicated and #2 the steps say to leave the key fully engaged so that when pulling the mechanism from the lock barrel the pins and springs don't go flying. Is there any other work around or something I'm missing? I also decide for the meantime to unlock one of the seats in the back so I can fold it down in case of emergency and while doing so BOTH the seat release levers cracked!!! What a piece of junk lol. Any source for replacement for these and insight on the lock would be greatly appreciated. Love the forum, plenty of great info on here. Thanks in advance.

Captnkev25

I'll take the fact that there was 316 views and no response to mean either I've pretty much covered all my bases or that nobody has experienced this??

dlbehrns

If it were me, I would get some Lock Eze. It is a lubricant that has graphite in it made specifically for locks. To get the fluid inside the lock you may have to go to someplace like Orchelin's or Tractor Supply Company(TSC) or any farm supply store and get an oversized hypodermic needle. Suck up some Lock Eze and squirt it inside the lock. The nozzle on the Lock Eze bottle is too big to fit inside the little door on the lock. Once you have an ample amount of fluid inside take the key and run it in and out several times to get the tumblers in the lock moving and hopefully the stuck portion will release.

err0neous

Seat release levers are $20 each at the dealer. I had one break, and bought a new one, the new one broke too after about 6 months so they replaced it for free.

Captnkev25

Thanks guys IM IN?? Lol. After hours of Seafoam Deep Creep soaking I had given it up. I stumbled upon a post somewhere online from a locksmith that said to insert the key as far as it would go, make sure it's centered in the cylinder and give it a smart tap with a light hammer!!! I'll be damned if the friggin key didn't pop in on the second whack!! Then it of course wouldn't turn so I popped it open with the remote and soaked the whole thing again and wiggled and wiggled. Left it for a half hour and came back and wiggled a little more and it worked. A lot better than having it re keyed!! As far as the release handles I found them on parts.com for $13 apiece so I ordere them as well as two new roof moldings as mine are faded and the clear is pealing on one. Any advice on how to change those?? Lol. I agree about the graphite lubricant but I needed something that would melt the rust I felt was present. Now that it's working I'm gonna blast it out with air to get rid of the deep creep and lubricate it properly. Thanks again